(It would also be useful in one tank where I *can* get to the inside
but it's so deep that reaching down to hold the connector is an
interesting exercise)
--
Chris Green
Can't think of a product to do that, but what I've done in the past is
thread in a normal rain-water butt tap, with a load of glue around it
to seal it and provide more strength. Something like waterproof
gutter / roofing adhesive sticks to the HDPE, or even araldite.
Probably an expensive option but such things are available for hot
water cylinders. Try a decent plumbing wholesaler
They do exist as I saw one being used for a fuel tank connection on "A
chopper is born" the other week. If they're good enough for aviation use I
sure they'll do for your purposes! ;-) FWIW, it didn't look like a
particualrly expensive fitting but I'm darned if I can find one on-line.
Tim
I know what I mean maybe not explained well.
[snip]
> > (It would also be useful in one tank where I *can* get to the inside
> > but it's so deep that reaching down to hold the connector is an
> > interesting exercise)
> >
> > --
> > Chris Green
>
> Probably an expensive option but such things are available for hot
> water cylinders. Try a decent plumbing wholesaler
Essex flange is your solution.
--
Jim White
Wimbledon London England
The principle's name is not "spud-head"
--
Chris Green
> I have a number of barrels (HDPE) that I want to use to
> collect water but they don't have removable tops so I need a way to
> fix an outlet without being able to get to the inside of the barrel.
I did this, using the normal backnut sort of tank connector.
I used an assistant holding a long spanner. The spanner was a paddle
of MDF with a hex hole in it to fit the backnut, screwed to a
broomhandle with a taper sawn on the end. We were working through a
bung hole about 2" diameter. I did have to tighten them entirely by
rotating the outside tap, but it wasn't too dificult to align them
afterward.
For security, I also drilled one corner of the hex and attached a loop
of fishing monofilament, in case we dropped it off the spanner.
> Would this work?
> drill a bigger hole (could be squre/oblong)
> Insert plate through the hole with necessary connection on place.
Yes - you use an oval plate passed narrow-end-on through a smaller
oval hole, wide-side-on. Then you rotate the plate by 90 degrees.
I've done this on steel tanks and then welded the plate into place.
However it does rely on a fairly large area, and that has to be flat.
I doubt if you'd have enough flatness in a plastic barrel.
Okay, with hindsight prehaps not what you're looking for but the priciple of
using an expanding rubber tube must exist in other fittings.
http://www.vphelo.com/Pages/Fuel%20Tank%20Outlet%20Washer.htm
Tim
>I'm not even sure if 'blind' is the right word. What I'm after is a
>tank connector that one can use on a tank where one can't get to the
>inside. I have a number of barrels (HDPE) that I want to use to
>collect water but they don't have removable tops so I need a way to
>fix an outlet without being able to get to the inside of the barrel.
Yes, there are such things.
Go to http://daerr.de/ and enter 20-54473-006-00.
It a little stopcock, with a pointy hat that one pounds through the plastic
until the gasket seals against the plastic. Then the pointy bit falls off
inside.
Never tried it, but you could either order from them (use the phone, someone
will speak English) or print out the picture to show at counters etc.
Thomas Prufer
(I can get my German sister-in-law to translate)
--
Chris Green
If there is no opening from the outside then how do you propose to get
the water into the barrel?
If you are going to make an opening in the top to take a filling opening
that is even sligtly larger than the flange on a regular tank connector
then it is a fairly simple job to thread down a connector from the top.
This is usually done with a piece of stiff wire, length of twin & earth
cable, solder wire off the reel etc.
Thread the wire from the top, out through the hole in the bottom and
slide the fitting down. A little bit of jiggling will bring the thread
out, put the back nut on and tighten. Job done at low cost.
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
Like that! I presume when sliding down there will also be a seal/washer, so
thread in the correct order.
You can fit a standad tank connector. You need to thread a bit of
string throught the top hole and out of the bottom hole using a bit of
stiff wire. You can drag the connector into postion by tying some
thin(fusewire or similar?) round the threaded bit and jiggling about a
bit.. Don't forget to put the rubber washer thingy on.
> I'm not even sure if 'blind' is the right word. What I'm after is a
> tank connector that one can use on a tank where one can't get to the
> inside
I used a Techflange to add an outlet to my hot water tank to feed the
shower pump, I couldn't use any other form of surrey/essex/warrix
flanges as the threaded boss on top was only 1/2" not 3/4".
For the techflange you use a tank cutter to make about a 2" hole, then
there is a 'corkscrew' arrangement where the back nut and internal
rubber washer pass through the hold and seal against another nut on the
outside.
It might be cheaper elsewhere, but here's a piccie, no hint of leak from
it in 5 years ...
Is the inside really truly inaccesible - or just bloody awkward?
If the original bunghole is large enough to get the flange through I'd
try threading it on a cane or a wire or a string. Once you've managed to
get it near the hole the rest is fairly simple. You may have to create a
suitable tool to hold the fitting in place while you do up the nut.
--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.
> This is usually done with a piece of stiff wire, length of twin & earth
> cable, solder wire off the reel etc.
>
> Thread the wire from the top, out through the hole in the bottom and
> slide the fitting down. A little bit of jiggling will bring the thread
> out, put the back nut on and tighten. Job done at low cost.
>
> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ne...@netfront.net ---
--
Chris Green
It doesn't quite have to be flat.
It has to be similarly curved to the surface you're putting it into.
If you happen to have a spare barrel, or you're cutting the top off
one, you may be able to simply use the 'matching' bit of the curve.