Regular chainsaw oil is the right material for the job.
We have two "weights" of chain oil here, summer and winter grade.
The winter stuff is thinner, for really low temperature work.
I've been out at -10C cutting fallen branches, and that's when
the winter weight is better. Most of the time, the summer weight is
good enough. The oil is red in colour, and is biodegradable. When
it falls on the ground, it's not like petroleum oil (the oil for
your car has detergents in it, and is not the best oil for
moving parts - the detergents are there to remove combustion
deposits).
When you use your mini-chainsaw, keep the chain out of the dirt.
Dirt is the enemy of chainsaws. The chain will wear in no time, if
fouled with dirt or sand. Try to make cuts above grade, so the
chances of getting dirt on the chain are reduced. Don't go cutting
roots with it. If you try to cut something right at ground level,
you'll get dirt in it.
The red chain oil, lubricates the chain as it goes around the
bar, around the idler wheel in the front, and as it goes
past the drive sprocket. Don't get the oil on your clothing
if you can help it.
With any chainsaw, the chain tension is important. It's a safety
issue -- if you let it get too loose. As any chainsaw heats up, the
length of the chain changes, and it needs a touchup on tension.
If the chain is too tight, that promotes wear of the
rotating bits. It won't take you too long to learn how
to adjust it for best tension. If there is too much slack,
it could jam in the work.
The advertising pictures are not the best. You put the branch
near the "V" formed by the lower jaw and the chain. The lower jaw
(turquoise, with five turquoise teeth) is intended to prevent the
chainsaw from slipping. It's hardly ever a good idea, to be using
just the tip of the saw for work. Don't do that. The branch you cut,
should be pushed into the "V".
It it really does need to be oiled. With the red chainsaw oil.
You could carry an oblong tray with the oil in it, dip the top
of the bar, dip the bottom of the bar, between cuts. Being careful
to let it drain a bit so it does not spray your clothes. A tank fed
chainsaw dispenses oil a drop or two at a time, to keep
the chain wetted. With a regular chainsaw, the sawdust is wetted
with the red stuff, so the oiler is generous with the juice.
It's not like oiling most things, where an excess of oil is
wasteful. The red juice is meant to be used, and red coloured
sawdust is a sign the automatic oiler is working.
Before you bring a chainsaw into the house, you take a rag and
wipe the bottom of it, which will have red juice on it. Lay the
chainsaw on a heavy plastic bag (like the kind used for topsoil),
so any more red juice that escapes rests on the bag and not the
furniture.
The only reason for "preserving your chain", is you may not be
able to source an exact replacement for it. It would be a shame to
only get two cutting projects out of it, before both chains are shot.
Even my mains powered chainsaw, it's hard to find a chain for it now.
I'm no good with small petrol engines, which is why I don't have
a petrol one. I tend to ruin small petrol engines, have no
feel for them. I get the carb apart and it's game over the the engine :-)
Paul