Preparing lime plaster wall for lining paper and painting
Julian
for lining paper. I have removed all the old loose lining paper and
paint, but some of the old paper is well stuck do I need to remove all
this too? Will it show through if I paper over it?
The old plaster is powdery and some of the top layer have come away
with the old paper, do I need to skim this over? and should I use
modern finishing plaster or top coat lime plaster?
Before papering do I need to stabilise the plaster surface with some
PVA, SBR or a priming coat of emulsion? It's an inside wall so not too
damp.
Which grade/brand of lining paper should I use? I was thinking of the
thickest 2000 grade will this be difficult to hang and will I need a
stronger wallpaper adhesive for it? I am going to brush emulsion paint
as the final finish, do the thicker lining papers have any texture to
them? as I would like a smooth finish with no texture but don't mind
if some of the character of the old plaster shows through. Thanks!
Martin Bonner
> Hi, I would like some advice on preparing an old lime plastered wall,
> for lining paper. I have removed all the old loose lining paper and
> paint, but some of the old paper is well stuck do I need to remove all
> this too? Will it show through if I paper over it?
It probably will show through. Wet the paper well, and leave it to
soak.
> The old plaster is powdery and some of the top layer have come away
> with the old paper, do I need to skim this over? and should I use
> modern finishing plaster or top coat lime plaster?
If it's a small area, polyfilla or whatever. Large area - I'd
probably mix up some lime putty, chalk, and hair (and yes, I have a
stock of all three). The worry with a gypsum skim over lathe and
plaster is that it will crack off (lime is *much* more flexible).
> Before papering do I need to stabilise the plaster surface with some
> PVA, SBR or a priming coat of emulsion? It's an inside wall so not too
> damp.
That would probably be sensible.
> Which grade/brand of lining paper should I use? I was thinking of the
> thickest 2000 grade will this be difficult to hang and will I need a
> stronger wallpaper adhesive for it? I am going to brush emulsion paint
> as the final finish, do the thicker lining papers have any texture to
> them? as I would like a smooth finish with no texture but don't mind
> if some of the character of the old plaster shows through. Thanks!
Pass. I've never got the hang of papering - SWMBO does it instead.
NT
You'll want a flat surface, whether thats easier to obtain by filling
or skimming the lot only you can tell. Lime plaster is 2.3 parts sand
to 1 builders lime, its cheap, effective, and fairly newbie friendly.
The 2 gotchas are that
1 in bulk it can crack, so either resmooth it or refill it later if
cracks happen.
2 lime can burn skin, wear thin gloves and wash it off if you get it
on you.
NT
Julian
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks for your replies, I already have some premixed fine lime
plaster top coat, which is sold locally in tubs, I purchased it a
while ago for repairing a lath and plaster ceiling, but haven't used
it yet, so I may try this on the wall. Can lime skim coat be used to
a feather edge when patching or is there a minimum thickness it needs
to be applied in? How long will the lime skim coat take to dry before
I can paper the wall? Is it ok to PVA the wall first when using lime
plaster?
Martin Bonner
> plaster top coat, which is sold locally in tubs, I purchased it a
> while ago for repairing a lath and plaster ceiling, but haven't used
> it yet, so I may try this on the wall. Can lime skim coat be used to
> a feather edge when patching or is there a minimum thickness it needs
> to be applied in?
The (slaked) lime itself will go as thin as you like (that's what
limewash is!) The real question is what the lime is mixed with. If
it's fine chalk then you should be able to get a feather edge, if it's
sharp sand with 2mm particles - then not so much.
> How long will the lime skim coat take to dry before
> I can paper the wall?
Depends how thick it is really. Not long. (It won't be fully
carbonated by then, but that can happen through the paper + emulsion).
> Is it ok to PVA the wall first when using lime
> plaster?
Yes. In fact I expect it would help.
NT
> On Aug 16, 6:51 pm, Julian <griffi...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Aug 16, 4:25 pm, NT <meow2...@care2.com> wrote:
>
> > > On Aug 16, 1:18 pm, Julian <griffi...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
> > > > Hi, I would like some advice on preparing an old lime plastered wall,
> > > > for lining paper. I have removed all the old loose lining paper and
> > > > paint, but some of the old paper is well stuck do I need to remove all
> > > > this too? Will it show through if I paper over it?
>
> > > > The old plaster is powdery and some of the top layer have come away
> > > > with the old paper, do I need to skim this over? and should I use
> > > > modern finishing plaster or top coat lime plaster?
>
> > > > Before papering do I need to stabilise the plaster surface with some
> > > > PVA, SBR or a priming coat of emulsion? It's an inside wall so not too
> > > > damp.
>
> > > > Which grade/brand of lining paper should I use? I was thinking of the
> > > > thickest 2000 grade will this be difficult to hang and will I need a
> > > > stronger wallpaper adhesive for it? I am going to brush emulsion paint
> > > > as the final finish, do the thicker lining papers have any texture to
> > > > them? as I would like a smooth finish with no texture but don't mind
> > > > if some of the character of the old plaster shows through. Thanks!
>
> > > You'll want a flat surface, whether thats easier to obtain by filling
> > > or skimming the lot only you can tell. Lime plaster is 2.3 parts sand
> > > to 1 builders lime, its cheap, effective, and fairly newbie friendly.
oops typo alert, should be 2.5 - 3 parts sand.
> > > The 2 gotchas are that
> > > 1 in bulk it can crack, so either resmooth it or refill it later if
> > > cracks happen.
> > > 2 lime can burn skin, wear thin gloves and wash it off if you get it
> > > on you.
>
> > Thanks for your replies, I already have some premixed fine lime
> > plaster top coat, which is sold locally in tubs, I purchased it a
> > while ago for repairing a lath and plaster ceiling, but haven't used
> > it yet, so I may try this on the wall. Can lime skim coat be used to
> > a feather edge when patching or is there a minimum thickness it needs
> > to be applied in?
thin as you like - unless its got sand in it.
> The (slaked) lime itself will go as thin as you like (that's what
> limewash is!) The real question is what the lime is mixed with. If
> it's fine chalk then you should be able to get a feather edge, if it's
> sharp sand with 2mm particles - then not so much.
>
> > How long will the lime skim coat take to dry before
> > I can paper the wall?
>
> Depends how thick it is really. Not long. (It won't be fully
> carbonated by then, but that can happen through the paper + emulsion).
Curing takes place after drying with lime, and it needs to start
curing before you do anything with it. Until it starts curing, its
very weak. When walls were built with lime mortar this was a real
issue, many a wall collapsed as a result of people pressing ahead and
building before it cured. If you leave it 2 or 3 days it should be
fine, the surface at least will be carbonating.
> > Is it ok to PVA the wall first when using lime
> > plaster?
>
> Yes. In fact I expect it would help.
I'd be more inclined to use a few coats of lime water. That will
penetrate deeper, help glue the old lime together, and create one
solid properly bonded lump of plaster. Should help the whole thing
last better.
NT
