Old engine oil as wood preserver
David in Normandy
with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try
painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil.
I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine
oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still
quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up
within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over
the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been
creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too.
The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite
good with the makeshift *creosote*.
I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has
annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place.
--
David in Normandy. Davidin...@yahoo.fr
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.
NT
wrote:
> After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed
> with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try
> painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil.
>
> I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine
> oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still
> quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up
> within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over
> the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been
> creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too.
>
> The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite
> good with the makeshift *creosote*.
>
> I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has
> annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place.
I've had mixed results with oil & paraffin, fine in some cases, no
good in others. And oil alone soaks in much less. Oak shouldnt need
preserving though.
NT
David in Normandy
>
> I've had mixed results with oil& paraffin, fine in some cases, no
> good in others. And oil alone soaks in much less. Oak shouldnt need
> preserving though.
>
>
I guess the purpose of the diesel or paraffin is to transport the oil
deeper into the wood. Though in the case of this post it didn't seem
necessary. Probably because it was well seasoned, and hot day, bone dry
wood and rough sawn. Putting the oil on hot probably helped too. It
sucked in the first coat very quickly, especially where there were lots
of cracks and woodworm holes - I guess capillary action worked there.
The second coat applied around half hour later took longer to soak in. I
was surprised it became touch dry though by the following day - spouse
touched the post and I expected her to get a black oily finger but no.
If I try it on less absorbent wood I'll probably try mixing it with a
little diesel or petrol first.
NT
wrote:
> On 07/06/2010 17:40, NT wrote:
>
>
>
> > I've had mixed results with oil& paraffin, fine in some cases, no
> > good in others. And oil alone soaks in much less. Oak shouldnt need
> > preserving though.
>
> I guess the purpose of the diesel or paraffin is to transport the oil
> deeper into the wood.
yes
> Though in the case of this post it didn't seem
> necessary. Probably because it was well seasoned, and hot day, bone dry
> wood and rough sawn. Putting the oil on hot probably helped too. It
> sucked in the first coat very quickly, especially where there were lots
> of cracks and woodworm holes - I guess capillary action worked there.
> The second coat applied around half hour later took longer to soak in. I
> was surprised it became touch dry though by the following day - spouse
> touched the post and I expected her to get a black oily finger but no.
> If I try it on less absorbent wood I'll probably try mixing it with a
> little diesel or petrol first.
Your 24 hours versus with paraffin anything from a few minutes to an
hour. So you may have much less penetration there.
NT
PeterC
> After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed
> with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try
> painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil.
>
> I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine
> oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still
> quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up
> within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over
> the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been
> creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too.
>
> The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite
> good with the makeshift *creosote*.
>
> I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has
> annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place.
Not sure that it'll stop woodworm. I had woodworm in a bench in a shed;
splashed it over several years with old oil, a drop of paraffin, some
oil+R11 (CFC) etc. and the little abstrads just kept on muching away!
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
edmars...@gmail.com
Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote?
newshound
> I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it.
> Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote?
>
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp
AB
Roger Hayter
be. You can only discriminate to some extent between toxicity to fungi
and toxicity to people.
--
Roger Hayter
harry
> I have some old Creosote, for treating wooden fencing. It has become quite thick because most of the paraffin solvent has evaporated. I've been trying, unsuccessfully to mix in paraffin in an attempt to thin it.
> Please, can anyone advise me on how to add paraffin, or old engine oil, to old creosote?
See if your brush washes out with water to find out.
If so, you can thin it with water.
It's not as good as the old stuff.
Brian Gaff
Brian
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George Miles
[g]
Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp
wrote:
Used engine oil would modify any known hazards associated with the
creosote though and I would guess that no serious work has been
conducted in respect to combinations of the two.
Used engine oil in itself is a variable, the dangers outside the
obvious ones of course are the age, the temperature it was used at,
engine condition and what additives the owner of the engine used.
Given the choice I would use old engine oil. There again I'm clapped
aincient and discourage children from the garden.
A socially responsible person would indeed use paraffin I suppose, or
if it's water based creosote follow harrys suggestion which is
actually in keeping with the NG subject matter for once :-)
AB
Rod Speed
"Brian Gaff" <bri...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote in message
news:q4c1i3$9u4$1...@dont-email.me...
Peeler
Speed blabbered, again:
<FLUSH>
04:33 am in Australia, again? Is your senility not letting you sleep in
again, senile Rot? And since when have you been actually up and trolling?
<BG>
--
"Anonymous" to trolling senile Rot Speed:
"You can fuck off as you know less than pig shit you sad
little ignorant cunt."
MID: <62dcaae57b421e2b...@haph.org>
harry
> After reading a recent thread on here about using old engine oil mixed
> with diesel and coal dust as a creosote replacement I decided to try
> painting an old oak post in the garden just using old engine oil.
>
> I didn't have any coal to hand and diesel costs money. The old engine
> oil came fresh out of the lawn mower and I painted it on while still
> quite warm. It seems to have worked well. The post soaked all the oil up
> within around 24 hours to become touch dry. It has since darkened over
> the last few days almost becoming black but looks just like it has been
> creosoted. The oily smell has subsided too.
>
> The post supports two large half moon hanging baskets and looks quite
> good with the makeshift *creosote*.
>
> I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has
> annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place.
They rot from the top and at ground level.
Chris Green
> > I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has
> > annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place.
>
> If the post is in a non-visible place, a plastic bucket/other container
> nailed/glued over the top is the best preserver of timber posts.
> They rot from the top and at ground level.
around our smallholding. I don't think I have ever had one 'rot from
the top'. When they fail it's *always* at or just below the surface
of the ground where they tend to stay wet *and* there's air.
The portion deeper in the ground is usually still in one piece and can
be extracted by screwing a large screw into it and pulling up with the
tractor's 3-point linkage.
The 'above the ground' part of the post is always perfectly sound
still.
These are standard treated round wooden posts.
--
Chris Green
·
Andrew Mawson
news:fca499df-47ed-4c4d...@googlegroups.com...
creosote, but over the years the tops do tend to have water sit on them even
when cut at a steep angle. Now I install a simple cap folded from sheet lead
which solves the problem.
Andrew
Tim+
> harry <harry...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>>> I don't know how good it will be at preserving the post but I bet it has
>>> annoyed the resident woodworm which were infesting it badly in one place.
>>
>> If the post is in a non-visible place, a plastic bucket/other container
>> nailed/glued over the top is the best preserver of timber posts.
>> They rot from the top and at ground level.
>
> I have a few hundred round wooden posts supporting electric fencing
> around our smallholding. I don't think I have ever had one 'rot from
> the top'. When they fail it's *always* at or just below the surface
> of the ground where they tend to stay wet *and* there's air.
whilst there’s a little rot at the top of some posts, it’s not structurally
damaging. As you say, the problem is at ground level. I’m treating the
bottoms of my new posts with creosote (the real stuff).
Tim
--
Please don't feed the trolls
Roger Hayter
tends to be on the damp side, and posts seem to rot from the top almost
as much as at the base.
--
Roger Hayter
S Viemeister
> The 'above the ground' part of the post is always perfectly sound
> still.
>
> These are standard treated round wooden posts.
>
We had gateposts supporting a standard metal farm gate, which looked
sound, but rotted away on the inside, from the top down. I don't know
what treatment, if any, they received, as they were there when we bought
the place.
Most rot does seem to happen at ground level, but not all.
S Viemeister
>> +1. Just replacing my garden fence (which is about 25 years old) and
>> whilst there's a little rot at the top of some posts, it's not structurally
>> damaging. As you say, the problem is at ground level. I'm treating the
>> bottoms of my new posts with creosote (the real stuff).
>
> tends to be on the damp side, and posts seem to rot from the top almost
> as much as at the base.
>
rot, too. Folk up here often put a little 'hat' or mini-roof on top of
the post.
The Natural Philosopher
Things don't rot in deserts. Nor do they rot at the bottom of bogs.
There are a few anaerobic fungi, but not many.
--
“A leader is best When people barely know he exists. Of a good leader,
who talks little,When his work is done, his aim fulfilled,They will say,
“We did this ourselves.”
― Lao Tzu, Tao Te Ching
Roger Hayter
> On 18/02/2019 13:32, S Viemeister wrote:
> > On 2/18/2019 4:25 AM, Chris Green wrote:
> >
> >> The 'above the ground' part of the post is always perfectly sound
> >> still.
> >>
> >> These are standard treated round wooden posts.
> >>
> > It may not happen often, but it _does_ happen.
> > We had gateposts supporting a standard metal farm gate, which looked
> > sound, but rotted away on the inside, from the top down. I don't know
> > what treatment, if any, they received, as they were there when we bought
> > the place.
> > Most rot does seem to happen at ground level, but not all.
> >
> >
> >
> The conditions for rot are nutrient water AND air ...
>
> Things don't rot in deserts. Nor do they rot at the bottom of bogs.
> There are a few anaerobic fungi, but not many.
with a useful exothermic reaction in the absence of oxygen. Wood
doesn't seem to provide this when oxygen is completely excluded. Or not
unless other substances are available to play the same chemical role.
Even bodies undergo limited degradation down to rather unpromising
chemicals, like keratin when buried in bogs.
--
Roger Hayter