> >"rbel" wrote in messagenews:df1di7lam938q6cif...@4ax.com...
>
> >>As the replacement part is readily available I take it that it should
> >>be possible to take the existing one out and put a new one in. Does
> >>anyone know if it is a case of removing just the solenoid coil or the
> >>complete valve body?
> >>--
> >>rbel
>
> >Just had a solenoid fail on our Triton 100E shower - it was only the coil
> >which had gone open circuit. The complete valve is available as a spare from
> >'Shower Spares' for about £34 plus pp plus VAT, but I removed an identical
> >coil from a washing machine inlet valve and used that. Here's one similar on
> >ebay for just over a fiver. The coil clips on and easily comes off with a
> >flat blade screwdriver inserted between the body and coil and then twisted.
>
> >
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WASHING-MACHINE-DISHWASHER-180DEGREE-SINGLE...
>
> Very many thanks. Your response jogged my memory and I have just
> replaced the coil with what appears to be an identical type that had
> been lurking in my 'may possibly come in useful' box. The shower is
> now functioning again.
> --
> rbel
I picked up on the point made above about washing m'c valve coils not
liking long duty cycles - it could well be that shower use doesn't
fall into that classification.
I use these valves for my greenhouse watering and pond topping up.
Twice the pond one has failed - gone O/C - and it was only after the
second time that I realised that it was while the system was running
over winter and had frozen up - the pond water dropped, the sensor
called for water and the poor valve was running for maybe several days
before it gave up. Rather obviously I now switched off in the winter.
Rob