Cutting glass - minimum you can take off?
no-one
I have been given a pane of glass to replace a broken window but it
slightly to big. I'd like to take off 3-5mm but is this possible? What
is the minimum width of glass each side of a scored line that you need
in order to cut it cleanly?
TIA
Usenet Nutter
wrote:
I'm guessing the cut edge will be covered by wood or putty ?
You could try a glasscutter to make the score then a pair of pincers
or pliers to go down the score to remove the piece and hope you get
all the way without breaking it . . ...I'm sure you won't get 3-5mm
off in one piece in the normal way
Roger Mills
no-one <now...@nowhere.com> wrote:
You can take off 3-5mm - but it won't come off in one piece - you'll have to
'nibble' it off with a pair of pincers after making the scored line.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Stuart Noble
A glazier would probably take 5mm off in one strip no problem, but 3mm
they might have to nibble off in sections. They make it look easy but
then they do pay a lot for their cutters.
Lubricate the cut with meths or similar, then one light but continuous
score, tap the underside of the score line with the cutter handle until
you see the break travel along the score. IME, if it's the only piece of
glass you have, you're bound to bugger it up :-)
Dave Plowman (News)
Depends how new the glass is - it cuts more easily when new.
A wet tile cutter works well, though.
--
*Keep honking...I'm reloading.
Dave Plowman da...@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Jules
> IME, if it's the only piece of glass you have, you're bound to bugger
> it up :-)
Hmm, I'm going to file that one away for future use ;) That's my
experience too - I always make sure I have a spare few pieces laying
around "just in case"...
Adrian Brentnall
I know it's not a very 'DIY' answer -
but, faced with that possibility, I think I'd go to my friendly
local glass supplier and buy another piece - cut to the right size!
It's simply not worth the hassle (& cut fingers!) -
unless it's a very unusual piece of glass (rather than
bog-standard clear).
About the only 'tidy' way to do this is with diamond grinder used wet
(I use one all the time for stained-glass work) - but it's a hassle by
any other means - and potentially dangerous...
You could always bodge it - and take a router / chisel / stanley knife
to the window frame - assuming it's wooden.... - but that's likely to be
just as much trouble.
As another poster said, if the 'free' piece of glass isn't 'new' then
it can be a mare to cut...
Adrian
The Natural Philosopher
But my experience of non toughened glass is you are lucky to get it in
place at all without it falling to pieces, and toughened will shatter at
the first touch of any tools.
Mark
a professional�glazier could easily take 2mm off in one piece�on a new pane
of glass.
if you are going to try you will have to nibble it, with the cutouts on the
glass cutter.�
pete
If it's to go in a wooden frame you could try enlarging the distance from
side-to-side (or top-bottom). It depends how much effort you are prepared
to go to for the price of a window pane the right size.
Calvin Sambrook
news:ehhtf51asq738h8sc...@4ax.com...
Angle grinder. Not.
No, seriously though, provided it's not toughened it's perfectly possible to
grind glass, in fact it's a standard way to bevel the edges after cutting.
For smaller pieces there are bench tools to do this but for a window size
I'd probably go at it with my powerfile on it's slowest setting. Oh, and
support the glass well and wear gloves and glasses. Take your time and
don't rush.
Adrian Brentnall
where you're grinding (taking the usual precautions if the powerfile is
mains-operated - or wear something to stop you breating in the glass
dust....
Adrian
TheOldFellow
1-2 mm is do-able with a coarse corundum stone (cheap oilstone) used
with water as a lubricant, the problem is holding it without cutting
your arm off. So you could try it.
Old blanket on the bench - sheet on top - blanket turned over so you
can trap it in the fold, stone held in gloved hands - very thick leather
ones, and go slowly.
This is how you dress safe the edge of a glass sheet that's to be used
for a tabletop.
It the glass is toughened, not chance at all, all cutting must be done
before toughening.
R.
oldhe...@googlemail.com
Yes you can, as others have said with a GOOD cutter (preferably oil-
lubricated) and a nibbler.
Mary
NT
maybe you'd know why a lot of localised chipping happened around the
cut line, including a 1" x 0.5" lump coming off when I tried to cut a
jam jar on a wet diamond table saw (a tile saw). I took it _very_
gently, but the result was still very poor.
cheers, NT
Adrian Brentnall
I had similar results with a tile saw and a wine bottle.
The grit on the blade on my lapidary saw
(which works very well with glass)
is much less coarse than the tile saw blade - I'm guessing that
the very coarse grit causes the glass to shatter rather than cut cleanly...
The lap saw blade is also slower.... again, down to the finer grit...
Adrian
Frank Erskine
Angle grinder.
--
Frank Erskine
The Medway Handyman
> no-one wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have been given a pane of glass to replace a broken window but it
>> slightly to big. I'd like to take off 3-5mm but is this possible?
>> What is the minimum width of glass each side of a scored line that
>> you need in order to cut it cleanly?
>>
>> TIA
>
> A glazier would probably take 5mm off in one strip no problem, but 3mm
> they might have to nibble off in sections. They make it look easy but
> then they do pay a lot for their cutters.
My local glass place makes it look sooo easy - untill you try it yourself.
> Lubricate the cut with meths or similar, then one light but continuous
> score, tap the underside of the score line with the cutter handle
> until you see the break travel along the score. IME, if it's the only
> piece of glass you have, you're bound to bugger it up :-)
Spoken like an expert :-)
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
The Medway Handyman
> "no-one" <now...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:ehhtf51asq738h8sc...@4ax.com...
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have been given a pane of glass to replace a broken window but it
>> slightly to big. I'd like to take off 3-5mm but is this possible?
>> What is the minimum width of glass each side of a scored line that
>> you need in order to cut it cleanly?
>>
>
> Angle grinder. Not.
>
> No, seriously though, provided it's not toughened it's perfectly
> possible to grind glass, in fact it's a standard way to bevel the
> edges after cutting. For smaller pieces there are bench tools to do
> this but for a window size I'd probably go at it with my powerfile on
> it's slowest setting.
What make of powerfile Calvin? I'm thinking of getting one.
NT
right - cheers
NT
Dave Plowman (News)
The Medway Handyman <davi...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> > A glazier would probably take 5mm off in one strip no problem, but 3mm
> > they might have to nibble off in sections. They make it look easy but
> > then they do pay a lot for their cutters.
> My local glass place makes it look sooo easy - untill you try it
> yourself.
As I said it's very much easier with new glass. Different matter when it's
a few years old.
--
*Suicidal twin kills sister by mistake.
no-one
Cicero
=================================================
If you're thinking of using it for glass a Black & Decker works well. I
recently bought a few pieces of mirror glass with polished edges. I
watched the glazier use a B&D power file to do the polishing (actually
'safe' edges rather than 'polished') and he told me that the best results
are obtained by lightly spraying the abrasive belt with water. He also
said that full polishing can be done the same way with progressively finer
grits. The file is used downwards on the edge working towards the centre.
As far as I can discover B&D is the only power file available but I'd be
interested to see others as the B&D is a bit expensive for a limited use
tool.
Cic.
--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================
chris French
<def63715-84b8-407c...@s15g2000yqs.googlegroups.com>,
"oldhe...@googlemail.com" <oldhe...@googlemail.com> writes
Yep, stained glass folks do it all the time to trim glass. It's easier
with the proper nibbling pliers, but any old pliers will probably do.
--
Chris French
Dave Liquorice
> Yep, stained glass folks do it all the time to trim glass. It's easier
> with the proper nibbling pliers, but any old pliers will probably do.
Probably easier with a pair of nail pulling, "end cutting" pliers
than any other. But remember with glass you aren't cutting it but
encoraging a crack to go where you want it. The glass "cutter" starts
a good "crack" where you want it, I think the oil keeps it open, and
then you just stress the bottom of that crack to make it grow. Hence
the lifting up and gentle taping. You can see the crack grow through
the glass and along the line.
Old glass is harder to cut as it is covered in lots of micro
scratches on the surface and it's a bit hit and miss as to which one
grows under the stress.
--
Cheers
Dave.
The Medway Handyman
Not specifically for glass, just general use. Only other one I've seem is
the Makita, which isn't cheap.
Adrian Brentnall
> On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 13:31:39 +0000, chris French wrote:
>
>> Yep, stained glass folks do it all the time to trim glass. It's easier
>> with the proper nibbling pliers, but any old pliers will probably do.
>
> Probably easier with a pair of nail pulling, "end cutting" pliers
> than any other. But remember with glass you aren't cutting it but
> encoraging a crack to go where you want it. The glass "cutter" starts
> a good "crack" where you want it, I think the oil keeps it open, and
> then you just stress the bottom of that crack to make it grow. Hence
> the lifting up and gentle taping. You can see the crack grow through
> the glass and along the line.
HMMM....
I think you may be confusing the 'nippers' that the mosaic lot use with
the 'grozing pliers' (honestly!) that we stained glass folk use.
What you really need is a way of 'clamping' the glass and applying
gentle pressure to it along the line you've scored.
If you're cutting a 12" sheet in half, it's easy - as you can score the
glass and then move the sheet so that the score line is along the edge
of the workbench, then just apply downward pressure. Laying the score
line over a ruler or thin lath and leaning on the glass achieves the
same thing.
When you're cutting a thin strip off the edge of the glass, the problem
is to provide a constant pressure along the length of the score -
and in the case that the OP mentioned you might just get away with some
sort of a 'workmate-style' clamping arrangement - gripping the thin
piece - and then lean on the wider piece... Usual safety warining apply
- including safety glasses!
If you use nail pullers then you're concentrating all the pressure in a
very narrow area - and you'll end up with a 'scalloped' edge - which
you'll then have to grind or fiddle with to be successful.
In the days before carbide glass cutters, they used to use a heated iron
to help a crack to run - you might find that a reasonably powerful
soldering iron might encourage the scored line to run along the edge of
the glass - but no guarantees!
>
> Old glass is harder to cut as it is covered in lots of micro
> scratches on the surface and it's a bit hit and miss as to which one
> grows under the stress.
>
Agreed! BTDT!
Adrian
Steve Firth
> In article <ehhtf51asq738h8sc...@4ax.com>,
> no-one <now...@nowhere.com> wrote:
> > I have been given a pane of glass to replace a broken window but it
> > slightly to big. I'd like to take off 3-5mm but is this possible? What
> > is the minimum width of glass each side of a scored line that you need
> > in order to cut it cleanly?
>
> Depends how new the glass is - it cuts more easily when new.
>
> A wet tile cutter works well, though.
Yes, that's the best way for an amateur to do it IMO, just be careful of
splinters and the potential for frogments of glass to fly out if the
workpiece is twisted while cutting.
Dave Liquorice
> I think you may be confusing the 'nippers' that the mosaic lot use with
> the 'grozing pliers' (honestly!) that we stained glass folk use.
Never heard of grozing pliers. <google> Haa, interesting jaw shape. I
assume you place the score line in line with the rear step and gently
squeeze?
> When you're cutting a thin strip off the edge of the glass, the problem
> is to provide a constant pressure along the length of the score -
> and in the case that the OP mentioned you might just get away with some
> sort of a 'workmate-style' clamping arrangement - gripping the thin
> piece - and then lean on the wider piece... Usual safety warining apply
> - including safety glasses!
Experience tells me that the bigger piece you are leaning on will
shatter or end up in two bits, minimum. Much better to "nibble" the
sliver away somehow, yes you'll probably have a scalaped edge but
IIRC this was a bit of glazing glass so that will be hidden in the
rebate.
--
Cheers
Dave.
Adrian Brentnall
Dave Liquorice wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:17:27 +0000, Adrian Brentnall wrote:
>
>> I think you may be confusing the 'nippers' that the mosaic lot use with
>> the 'grozing pliers' (honestly!) that we stained glass folk use.
>
> Never heard of grozing pliers. <google> Haa, interesting jaw shape. I
> assume you place the score line in line with the rear step and gently
> squeeze?
There's a photo at
http://www.warm-glass.co.uk/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=281
You use them two ways...
As an aid to snapping or running the score...
Score the glass, then grip at the score with the flat jaw on top -
then apply gentle pressure downwards (like snapping a chocolate bar)
until the score runs. If it's a long or difficult break - move along the
score and try again - the objective being to see the break running along
the whole of the score-line before trying to separate the two bits of
glass. It's a good plan to make the initial breaks at either end of the
score line (then yuo stand a fihting chance of at least two of the
points along the score being in the right position!
To nibble away at the edges of glass, create a rough shape before
kiln-fusing, or, if you're doing lead-work, instead of using a grinder
to adjust pieces to shape/size.
This is done with the curved jaw uppermost, and the jaws not quite
tightly closed. Lightly grip the edge of the glass, and then, by
twisting your wrist, use the rough inner surface of the curved jaw to
act like a very coarse file and nibble the edge of the glass. With
practice, this can be very quick and fairly accurate - but it does leave
a rough edge
>
>> When you're cutting a thin strip off the edge of the glass, the problem
>> is to provide a constant pressure along the length of the score -
>> and in the case that the OP mentioned you might just get away with some
>> sort of a 'workmate-style' clamping arrangement - gripping the thin
>> piece - and then lean on the wider piece... Usual safety warining apply
>> - including safety glasses!
>
> Experience tells me that the bigger piece you are leaning on will
> shatter or end up in two bits, minimum. Much better to "nibble" the
> sliver away somehow, yes you'll probably have a scalaped edge but
> IIRC this was a bit of glazing glass so that will be hidden in the
> rebate.
>
>
It was only a 'if you really must' suggestion <g>
Safety should be uppermost when working with glass - even if you're
doing it day in / day out you're likely to get cuts - the trick is to
ensure that they're not anywhere that matters <g>.
I'm intrigued to know what the original poster ended up doing...?
Adrian
TheScullster
"no-one" wrote
> Hi,
>
> I have been given a pane of glass to replace a broken window but it
> slightly to big. I'd like to take off 3-5mm but is this possible? What
> is the minimum width of glass each side of a scored line that you need
> in order to cut it cleanly?
>
> TIA
Many moons ago when I were a lad (close to 40 years ago :( ), I remember the
clothes prop disassociating itself from the clothes line and crashing
through the back window.
This was a single glazed pane about 4' square.
Our neighbour offered to fit a new pane but when it arrived, it was a bit
big and fouled the frame at one corner.
Unphased, with the glass supported on his right thigh, he simply scored and
nibbled a short strip away using a fairly unimpressive looking hand held
tile cutter. This had a small wheel at the end and notches in the side that
he used to do the nibbling operation IYSWIM.
He then applied bedding putty round the frame, working both left and right
handed as appropriate!
Strange how certain things stay with you innit?
Phil
pcb1962
<davidl...@nospamblueyonder.co.uk> wrote:
> Cicero wrote:
> > On Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:26:53 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>
> >> Calvin Sambrook wrote:
I've got this one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Makita-9032-Filing-Sander-21068.htm
I bought it for one job where I had to remove 5mm from the bottom of a
couple of battens mounted on the wall in the corners of an alcove.
(Couldn't remove the battens as the boiler is hanging on them). It
finished the job in 5 minutes that I'd already wasted hours on. I
haven't found a lot of other uses for it, mainly because I also have a
bench mounted belt-and-disc sander, but I'd imagine that out on the
road it could be useful for all sorts of things. Like any belt sander
it has great potential for ruining the job by removing 3 times as much
material as you think it has.
Andy Dingley
> No, seriously though, provided it's not toughened it's perfectly possible to
> grind glass, in fact it's a standard way to bevel the edges after cutting.
Depending on the meaning of "grind". Glass will break if you overheat
a small point of it, so abrasive wheel grinding is impractical, unless
it's water-cooled. Most large glass "grinders" are thus using long
belts (big flat contact), rather than wheels (spot contact).