My vokera combi boiler is in the loft of my house - don't ask me why,
it was the previous owners - and the control for it is on it's front
panel. Therefore in order to change any setting I need to get up there.
Wife is pregant and I want to give her better control of the heating
while I am in work. Therefore I want to install an electronic timer in
the upstairs cupboard so she can change it as she sees fit.
I emailed Vokera and they advise that any single channel timer that
supports voltage free switching will do just nicely and I have ordered
this in.
Now, I'm happy and confident in wiring it in but just need some advice
on the best way to do it. I have the installation amnual for the boiler
also.
Have any of you done a job like this before? If so a little step by
step would be appreciated.
--
Mr Conway
Most Vokeras have a wiring diagram on the plastic cover which protects
the main circuit board (pcb). On that you should see a place where a
room thermostat should be placed, if you do not have a room thermostat
at the moment there will be a short piece of wire, usually red, jumping
this connection. That is where you put the no volts connection from your
Drayton receiving unit. If I remember rightly (I don't have one in stock
to refer to) it's pin 1 and 3 on the Drayton Live and Neutral not being
numbered. You take two wires from 1 and 3 to the two places on the
Vokera pcb so explained above.
You wire up the Drayton receiving unit to live neutral and earth.
There is a simple sequence to get it learning to receive from your
remote unit. Unplug the right and left battery draws, remove the
plastic battery saver, follow the instructions for how to put the
receiver into learn mode, something like press both buttons at once
until the red light flashes, insert the right battery drawer on the
remote unit first then the left, receiver should get the message.
Fiddle with remote until a flame appears, receiver should flash red
then go green, boiler should light. Change remote so flame goes out,
receiver flashes red then green light goes out, boiler turns off.
Obviously override timer on the boiler to permanently on.
--
Paul Barker
I would have thought that it was straightforward that if you don't
understand what to do, you should get a man in who does
--
geoff
Near where the power wires tothe boilr are connected there are some more
terminals, including the pair in question as indicated in the boiler's
installation manual. These terminals may well have a simple link currently
installed. which you replace with the flex to the timer contacts. If the
timer also needs mains power then you can get that from the mains supply
to the boiler.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
<ahem> cable. Flex is what we wire table lamps with.
| to the timer contacts. If the timer also needs mains power then you
| can get that from the mains supply to the boiler.
Owain
OK. I expect that the absolute best practice is to use a short length of
flex (most boilers expect to be wired with this the grips and grommets are
designed to take a round section). The flex should then go into a flex to
cable connection unit and the wiring to the remote clock/thermostat done
with T&E cable.
I realised that you might be thinking of unsheathed, twisted pair flex
when I meant flex (is that stuff still legal?). My usage is that solid
strand (usually flat) wiring is cable and multi-stranded wiring is flex.
Although some older and the larger sizes of cables have multi-strand
conductors. Appliances have flexes, houses have cable.