Need glue suggestions to repair concrete roof tile.

[me]

Found one in US called RT600 but can't find anything similar in the UK and not going to pay £30+ on Amazon for the RT600. So is there an affordable UK roof tile glue? It's to glue on a corner off one tile that's somehow got broken.

[Rob Morley]

You could use epoxy, or just mix up some cement (not mortar) and
water into a paste. The problem with the latter is that you have to
stop it drying out while it cures (several days) but if you wet it too
much it will be weak. For epoxy to work well you have to remove any
loose powdery material from the surfaces to be joined.

[Tjoepstil]

On 25/06/18 23:17, me wrote:
> Found one in US called RT600 but can't find anything similar in the UK and not going to pay £30+ on Amazon for the RT600. So is there an affordable UK roof tile glue? It's to glue on a corner off one tile that's somehow got broken.
>

car body filler.

[leen...@yahoo.co.uk]

Gripfill?

[Brian Gaff]

How much is broken? Is it just a corner or is it almost half of it.
I remember many years ago seeing somebody do this with a product by Dow
Corning called Urethane Bond, if it still exists. It even glued asbestos.
it was quite strong but not rigid..Very handy for terra cottsa concrete
and the like as long as it was mostly ornamental or not under huge stresses.
Not sure if you can still get it, its bound to be against some rule these
days!
Brian

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[Jim K]

leen...@yahoo.co.uk Wrote in message:
> Gripfill?
>

How well does it last outside - UV, heat cold etc?
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[PeterC]

On Mon, 25 Jun 2018 15:17:12 -0700 (PDT), me wrote:

> Found one in US called RT600 but can't find anything similar in the UK and not going to pay £30+ on Amazon for the RT600. So is there an affordable UK roof tile glue? It's to glue on a corner off one tile that's somehow got broken.

I've had an iron bench stuck to concrete flags for several years. Gets all
weathers and is still firm. I used Stixall:
https://www.toolstation.com/search?search=stixall
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

[Andy Bennet]

On 25/06/2018 23:17, me wrote:
> Found one in US called RT600 but can't find anything similar in the UK and not going to pay £30+ on Amazon for the RT600. So is there an affordable UK roof tile glue? It's to glue on a corner off one tile that's somehow got broken.
>

Why not buy a new roof tile - they are only about £1 -£2 each tops.

[soup]

On 25/06/2018 23:17, me wrote:

> Found one in US called RT600 but can't find anything similar in the UK and not going to pay £30+ on Amazon for the RT600. So is there an affordable UK roof tile glue? It's to glue on a corner off one tile that's somehow got broken.
>

Why faff about ? Scour the Builder's yards find one that's the same and
replace . Whats the cost of one tile versus all the faffing with glues etc?
Mind you has the roofing all weathered and a replacement tile would
stick out like 'tits on a bull'?

[Harry Bloomfield]

soup brought next idea :

> Why faff about ? Scour the Builder's yards find one that's the same and
> replace . Whats the cost of one tile versus all the faffing with glues etc?
> Mind you has the roofing all weathered and a replacement tile would stick
> out like 'tits on a bull'?

A coating of yogurt will soon have it blending in.

[Rod Speed]

"Brian Gaff" <bri...@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote

> How much is broken? Is it just a corner or is it almost half of it.
> I remember many years ago seeing somebody do this with a product by Dow
> Corning called Urethane Bond, if it still exists. It even glued asbestos.
> it was quite strong but not rigid..Very handy for terra cottsa concrete
> and the like as long as it was mostly ornamental or not under huge
> stresses.
> Not sure if you can still get it,

Fraid not
http://www.selleys.com.au/ask_expert/answers/adhesives/1961

> its bound to be against some rule these days!

Nope.

[me]

On Monday, 25 June 2018 23:17:15 UTC+1, me wrote:


Thanks for the replies. Think I'll give the Stixall a go.

[newshound]

On 26/06/2018 14:04, me wrote:
> On Monday, 25 June 2018 23:17:15 UTC+1, me wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the replies. Think I'll give the Stixall a go.
>

FWIW I would have looked for a replacement tile first, then gone for
epoxy but with a GRP patch on the back for reinforcement.

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[Michael Chare]

On 25/06/2018 23:17, me wrote:

> Found one in US called RT600 but can't find anything similar in the UK and not going to pay £30+ on Amazon for the RT600. So is there an affordable UK roof tile glue? It's to glue on a corner off one tile that's somehow got broken.
>

The concrete tiles I replaced had a brand name on the under side which
made it easier to buy replacements. The corners on some of the tiles had
broken off. I don't really know why.


--
Michael Chare

[Andy Burns]

Michael Chare wrote:

> the concrete tiles I replaced had a brand name on the under side which

> made it easier to buy replacements.

Same here, the style is still manufactured, but the exact colour is no
longer available (not much of an issue to me as the majority of the tile
is covered by a zinc weathering slate).

A local builders yard that I know used to keep old stocks of the various
tiles used on local estates, recently sold out to a big chain and got
rid of their old stocks.

I did see some of the correct colour secondhand on eBay and Gumtree, but
not locally and not selling in singles.

[Rod Speed]

Michael Chare <mUNDERS...@chareDO.Torg.uk> wrote

Most likely bad design. The corners weren't
strong enough, not enough meat at the corners.

[Rob Morley]

On Tue, 26 Jun 2018 08:15:10 +0100 (GMT+01:00)
Jim K <jk98...@gmail.com> wrote:

> leen...@yahoo.co.uk Wrote in message:
> > Gripfill?
> >
>
> How well does it last outside - UV, heat cold etc?

I strongly suspect that it doesn't - it doesn't even resist a bit of
damp inside IME.

[Peeler]

On Wed, 27 Jun 2018 06:21:46 +1000, cantankerous geezer Rot Speed blabbered,
again:

>
>> The concrete tiles I replaced had a brand name on the under side which
>> made it easier to buy replacements. The corners on some of the tiles had
>> broken off. I don't really know why.
>
> Most likely bad design. The corners weren't
> strong enough, not enough meat at the corners.

The Ozzietard knows it all, AGAIN! LMAO

--
Cursitor Doom about Rot Speed:
"The man is a conspicuous and unashamed ignoramus."
MID: <pgbeg9$bv4$8...@dont-email.me>

[PeterC]

If it's anything like Pink Grip, I used some to glue the square caps onto
fenc posts, so not exposed to direct sunshine and had some protection from
rain - blown off by the wind!

[tabb...@gmail.com]

+1

[me]

Why do you think car body filler would be better than Stixall for example?

[Rod Speed]

me <clanger...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote

> Why do you think car body filler would
> be better than Stixall for example?

Because its designed to work fine outside in all weathers.

[me]

On Wednesday, 27 June 2018 20:41:04 UTC+1, Rod Speed wrote:
> me wrote

>
> > Why do you think car body filler would
> > be better than Stixall for example?
>
> Because its designed to work fine outside in all weathers.

I see, but would it have sufficient strength to glue a concrete tile as it's only meant to fill gaps not bond things together?

[Peeler]

On Thu, 28 Jun 2018 05:40:53 +1000, cantankerous geezer Rot Speed blabbered,
again:

>> Why do you think car body filler would
>> be better than Stixall for example?
>
> Because its designed to work fine outside in all weathers.

Obviously so does Stixall, endlessly driveling moron.

[Rod Speed]

me <clanger...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote

> Rod Speed wrote
>> me wrote

>>> Why do you think car body filler would
>>> be better than Stixall for example?

>> Because its designed to work fine outside in all weathers.

> I see, but would it have sufficient strength to glue a concrete
> tile as it's only meant to fill gaps not bond things together?

It does in fact have to bond very well to metal or it wouldn’t work with
a car and does in fact bond very well to other stuff like concrete too.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

yes


NT

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 27/06/18 20:15, me wrote:
> Why do you think car body filler would be better than Stixall for example?
>

Because experience has shown me that car body filler doesn't fail and
all other 'sticks like shit/polyurethane/epoxy' glues etc. do.

It's even better than epoxy as a general purpose stick almost anything
to almost anything - the one exception being polythene and other olefins.

And it sets rock hard.

--
Truth welcomes investigation because truth knows investigation will lead
to converts. It is deception that uses all the other techniques.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Oh yes. I've seen cars held together by car body filler where the steel
has entirely escaped.

It is way stronger than concrete in tension.

http://www.concrete.org.uk/fingertips-document.asp?id=525

gives concrete tensile strengh around 2-4 Mpa whereas

https://netcomposites.com/guide-tools/guide/resin-systems/strength-stiffness/

gives polyester resin around 50Mpa +-

Concrete is of course far stronger in compression...and steel
reinforcing beats it in tension, which is why you reindforce concrete
with steel and polyester and epoxy reins with glass or carbon fibre...


You want 'liquid metal' or 'P38' type fillers. Two pack with a catalyst
and a filler. Stinks of styrene. Sets in minutes.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/fillers-preparation/davids-isopon-p38-easy-sand-250ml




--
"It is an established fact to 97% confidence limits that left wing
conspirators see right wing conspiracies everywhere"

[Andrew Gabriel]

In article <d02cdbca-e2f6-4812...@googlegroups.com>,
me <clanger...@yahoo.co.uk> writes:
> Found one in US called RT600 but can't find anything similar in the UK and =
> not going to pay =C2=A330+ on Amazon for the RT600. So is there an affordab=
> le UK roof tile glue? It's to glue on a corner off one tile that's somehow =
> got broken.

I had a tile which cracked right across the middle, and nothing matching
is obtainable anymore. Decided to put lead underneath to make it waterproof,
put the tile back in place, and the interlocking tiles stop the broken part
being able to fall down the roof, which means it's practically invisible
unless you know where to look.

Annoyingly, there had been a few spare tiles leaning against the back of
the garden wall and brick gatepost when I moved in, but a some vehicle
crashed into the gatepost, which resulted in the tiles and gatepost being
smashed and ending up 10' up the driveway. I was away, but it must have done
considerable damage to the vehicle. Neighbours thought it was a delivery
van doing a 3-point turn.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

[Brian Reay]

I used 'No More Nails' on a clay tile- admittedly not on a roof. It has
held up for 15 years or so. It is on a slope where a chimney changes
size, a few feet from the ground. It isn't terribly exposed. I just
glued the break and stuck some roofing felt on the back.

--

Suspect someone is claiming a benefit under false pretences? Incapacity
Benefit or Personal Independence Payment when they don't need it? They
are depriving those in real need!

https://www.gov.uk/report-benefit-fraud

[alan_m]

But it's not a glue. Car body filler has it's "bodge" uses[1] where it
works fine but in this case using it to glue back two pieces that have a
clean break would require the filler to just be a thin layer. I suspect
what will happen with using car body filler in this application is that
it will result in two possible areas of potentiality failure on the
filler to tile joins and it will fail soon after being fitted.

[1]
My soon to be replaced wooden window frames are filled in places with
car body filler - after digging out the rot and stabilising with
Ronseal's wet rot wood hardener.

--
mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

[The Natural Philosopher]

On 30/06/18 07:29, alan_m wrote:
> On 27/06/2018 20:40, Rod Speed wrote:
>> me <clanger...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote
>>> Why do you think car body filler would be better than Stixall for
>>> example?
>>
>> Because its designed to work fine outside in all weathers.
>
>
> But it's not a glue.

Define 'glue'

Something taht stcks to things together?

Its a glue.

Car body filer is as much a glue as epoxy is, in that it its a resin
that sets hard

It's polyester rather than epoxy, but otherwise its virtally the same
EXCEPT it has a filler that makes it less runny and gives it a bit more
bulk.

Neither is it a 'bodge'.

It is a first class solution to pretty much all breaks or where a rigid
gap filling glue is required.



--
Socialism is the philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance and the
gospel of envy.

Its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery.

Winston Churchill

[alan_m]

On 28/06/2018 19:04, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

> Annoyingly, there had been a few spare tiles leaning against the back of
> the garden wall and brick gatepost when I moved in, but a some vehicle
> crashed into the gatepost, which resulted in the tiles and gatepost being
> smashed and ending up 10' up the driveway. I was away, but it must have done
> considerable damage to the vehicle. Neighbours thought it was a delivery
> van doing a 3-point turn.
>

Someone living the opposite side of the road backed a car out of his
front garden driveway, across the opposite curb/pavement and into my 4'
length of brick wall and my neighbour's 6' high brick gatepost and
demolished both. There was surprisingly little damage to the cars
bodywork - a minor dent in the metal bit of the tailgate and multiple
scratches on the plastic bumper. A couple of bricks had gone through the
back window and ended up in the rear seats.

Most of the debris remained where it toppled but bricks from the top of
the wall and the top pillar did travel 10' or more.

Luckily my car and my neighbour's car were not parked in our front
gardens at the time.

[Rod Speed]

alan_m <ju...@admac.myzen.co.uk> wrote

> Rod Speed wrote
>> me <clanger...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote

>>> Why do you think car body filler would be better than Stixall for
>>> example?

>> Because its designed to work fine outside in all weathers.

> But it's not a glue.

But it has to stick very well to the car body,
so does in fact work well as a glue too.

> Car body filler has it's "bodge" uses[1] where it works fine but in this
> case using it to glue back two pieces that have a clean break would
> require the filler to just be a thin layer.

And it works fine in that situation.

> I suspect what will happen with using car body filler in this application
> is that it will result in two possible areas of potentiality failure on
> the filler to tile joins and it will fail soon after being fitted.

In practice it works fine in that situation anyway.

> [1]
> My soon to be replaced wooden window frames are filled in places with car
> body filler - after digging out the rot and stabilising with Ronseal's wet
> rot wood hardener.

So clearly it sticks well to a lot more than rusty car bodys.

[tabb...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, 30 June 2018 07:40:55 UTC+1, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> On 30/06/18 07:29, alan_m wrote:
> > On 27/06/2018 20:40, Rod Speed wrote:
> >> me <clanger...@yahoo.co.uk> wrote

> >>> Why do you think car body filler would be better than Stixall for
> >>> example?
> >>
> >> Because its designed to work fine outside in all weathers.
> >
> >
> > But it's not a glue.
>
> Define 'glue'
>
> Something taht stcks to things together?
>
> Its a glue.
>
> Car body filer is as much a glue as epoxy is, in that it its a resin
> that sets hard
>
> It's polyester rather than epoxy, but otherwise its virtally the same
> EXCEPT it has a filler that makes it less runny and gives it a bit more
> bulk.
>
> Neither is it a 'bodge'.
>
> It is a first class solution to pretty much all breaks or where a rigid
> gap filling glue is required.

it's glue plus powdered fillers. It glues.


NT

[alan_m]

On 30/06/2018 11:44, tabb...@gmail.com wrote:

> it's glue plus powdered fillers. It glues.
>

I'll withdraw what I've written

As a test I've just "glued" back a clean break in a concrete slab using
a two part wood filler (same as car body filler but coloured brown)

I've tested the join by clamping one side and loading up the other with
bricks. The bond has held.

Photos
http://www.admac.myzen.co.uk/Glue_slab/

[Rob Morley]

On Sat, 30 Jun 2018 07:29:44 +0100
alan_m <ju...@admac.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

> My soon to be replaced wooden window frames are filled in places with
> car body filler - after digging out the rot and stabilising with
> Ronseal's wet rot wood hardener.
>

I need to do that - I bought a big tin of filler in readiness, but at
this rate it will be out of date before I use it. :-\

[alan_m]

When digging out the rot you may find that you need more than a large
tub of filler :(

On a very bad case I dug out as much of the rot as I could and used
Ronseal's wet rot wood hardener (recommended). I then found another
piece of wood and shaped it so that it partially filled the gap. I then
used the filler behind the this new piece of wood, hammered it in and
made good any remaining voids with the filler. For this to work you
really need the filler to stay workable for at least 10 to 15 minutes.

Possibly apply the final layer after the filler in the bulk of the gap
has set. Just leave the initial surface very rough to provide a decent
key for the final layer.

One other tip: If there is access to the gap from the top use shuttering
made from a suitable piece of scrap flat wood wrapped in a plastic bag
(or similar). The plastic bag will stop the filler sticking to the
shuttering when you remove it.