On Thu, 30 Jun 2016 09:38:13 +0000, David wrote:
> On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 22:38:33 +0000, Johnny B Good wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 10:48:59 +0000, David wrote:
>>
>>> Just opened the retail box on my new WD Red 3TB drive (bought the
>>> retail version as it was the same price as a bare drive for some
>>> reason).
> <snip>
>>> Still trying to find out exactly what it is, but I should be fitting
>>> the drive not surfing the net.
>>
>> You should *first* be testing the drive with Western Digital's WDIDLE3
>> utility to verify the head unload time-out setting. Just *don't* be
>> surprised[2] if this set to an insanely short 8 seconds instead of a
>> more useful 5 minutes (300 seconds).
> <snip>
>>
>>
>>> Ah, well, back to fettling SATA cables.
>>>
>>>
>> JOOI, what does the fettling of SATA cables involve these days?
>>
> <snip>
>>
>> HTH & HAND :-)
>
> Thanks - first point; I assume that I can WDIDLE3 the HDD at any point
> when it is not mounted? Not just first time out of the box? Hmm...looks
> like it. I think the unload count is O.K. on my other WD Red; I will
> check again.
Yes, it can be run any time. It's never too late until it *is* too late.
The WDIDLE3 utility is a dos program which means you need to set the SATA
interface mode to IDE compatibility mode in the cmos setup for it to work.
I understand that there's now a *nix version of this utility which
probably doesn't require any such (temporary) changes to be made in the
cmos setup (but as I've never had reason to try this thus far, I'm only
surmising here).
>
> Fettling SATA cables?
>
> Because of the layout of my Silverstone HTPC box I have some cabling
> issues. The hard drives go into removable boxes (open frames) secured
> against one side of the case. The middle one overlaps the SATA
> connectors on the mother board. Thus I have to remove the middle HDD
> case if I want to get at the SATA connectors for any reason, such as to
> cable in a device in the other two boxes or temporarily connect another
> drive with the case lid off. Today's solution is to populate all the
> SATA connectors (apart from the one shared with the eSATA port) with
> cables, label them all up with the connector number, and tie the spares
> up for future use.
>
> I am also having interesting times generally with fitting HDDs.
I know where you're coming from. I too have similar, if perhaps not
quite so extreme, issues with my re-purposed 2nd hand acquired Gateway
2000 (desktop layout) case used to house my 4 disk NAS build. It only had
provision for a two drive bay (located on the RHS of the box) with a cdrom
and floppy drive bay in the middle.
With a modern ATX or micro-ATX MoBo, there was sufficient room to mount
the two additional drives on brass MoBo stand off pillars to the base of
the case immediately below the cdrom/floppy drive bay and in the space to
the LHS of that. All the HDDs are nicely placed to bask in the incoming
fresh air thus saving the need for additional fans over and above the
thermostatic fan in the 145 watt rated (old skool rating) mini ITX styled
PSU (into which I had to add the innards of a 5.2v smpsu wallwart to to
beef up the pathetically 100mA rated 5VSB rail[1]).
>
> The two 3.5" HDD boxes, holding 3 each, also have provision for cooling
> fans. I decided to fit a couple of slimline quiet fans into the boxes to
> try and quieten everything down - more slow spinning fans should in
> theory move a similar amount of air with less noise.
You may be able to do away with those extra fans by opening up, what are
often pathetically inadequate, ventilation slots or holes. It's
surprising how effective a standard 80mm PSU fan can be as the sole
source of ventilation when the case is modded to improve its breathing
(especially so when the idling consumption is only a hundred watts or
less - in my case, circa 50 to 51 watts all drives spinning).
>
> However with these fans fitted I have to move the HDDs out one screw
> fixing slot, which means they reach further out into the case. This in
> turn is causing me additional cabling problems because the drive cabling
> is fighting with the power leads from the PSU (third drive case) and
> some of the leads from the mother board (middle drive case lowest slot).
>
> I don't know if I'm missing something obvious, or if the modular power
> leads from the PSU are in an unusual place and the case is really
> intended for mini-ITX not full ITX, or something......
>
> However I am about to start juggling drives around to see if I can get
> the minimum cable interaction.
Good luck with that. If you're prepared to get your hands dirty with
with a bit of gross DiY activity (tinsnips pliers and drills), you may
enjoy even greater success without so much reliance on "Luck". :-)
>
> Current drives in the 3.5" cases are now
>
> 2 * WD 3TB Red 3.5"
>
> 2 * Crucial SSDs sharing an Icy Dock
>
> So populating 3 of the 6 available spaces.
>
> There is the supposed capacity for 6 3.5" drives but I am damned if I
> can see how to fit them with the additional fans installed, and am
> pretty sure I would have problems using the slot in the middle cage
> directly over the SATA connectors anyway.
>
> Loads of fun.
>
> I may have to relocate the fan from one cage just to get the 3.5" drives
> to settle in.
I discovered, several years ago now, that the key to a nice "Cool 'n'
Quiet" system is the inclusion of generously sized ventilation slots/
holes and removal of any sources of turbulent airflow in the path of your
standard axial cooling fan(s). These fans are quite capable of shifting
considerable volumes of air provided they're not asked to fight
backpressure (or its equivilent, suction drag).
The most common affronts to the principles of efficient ventilation are
the vent slots stamped out of the sheet steel panels in PC PSUs (as well
as in some cases). Here, there is an aesthetically pleasing and effective
remedy requiring little more than a suitable pair of pliers by which to
twist the metal strips between the slots by 45 to 60 degrees. This not
only preserves the safety barrier function and improve its appearance as
well as increase the effective cross sectional area, it also reduces, if
not eliminates, drag and noise inducing turbulence, creating an
improvement in airflow out of all proportion to visible expectations.
System ventilation requirements is one area where a bit of well thought
out attention to detail can pay off big time. It's surprising just how
little airflow is required to keep drive temperatures to within 10 to 15
degrees of ambient which is enough to permit operation right up to 40
degree room temperatures without undue risk of data loss.
[1] It took me quite a while to realise why most of the alternative MoBos
I'd tried in place of the original P75 board were failing to fire up. The
worst of it all was that the reason was documented on the PSU label
itself if I'd only taken the trouble to examine it in detail.
When it finally dawned on me that the 100mA rating might be the issue, I
made up a 3 cell AA battery pack to use as a substitute 5VSB rail to
retest the recalcitrant MoBos, discovering that once fired up, the 4.5v
assistance was no longer needed to keep it running. At that point, I was
tempted to just fit a 3 cell battery pack with a momentary push to start
switch I could hold in whilst pressing the normal on/off button but
decided on a more elegant solution in the form of a re-purposed PCB
removed from a 1.2A 5.2 volt wallwart fitted within the existing PSU
using a diode to connect to the 5VSB line inside so as to hold it up to a
reduced if adequate 4.7 volts. Once booted, this 5VSB line magically rose
up to 5 volts anyway.
This mod was done quite a few years ago and, as I expected, has been
working reliably ever since. Although each additional component increases
the failure rate of the overall system, I didn't believe that would be
much of an issue in this case since the naked smpsu circuit board runs
far cooler inside the mini-ITX psu that it ever could inside of its
original plastic plugtop overcoat. Moreover, the only time it is
subjected to any loading stress is during the brief time between mains
power on and the pressing of the on/off button. Once started, no current
is drawn from it leaving it to handle the quarter of a watt standby
consumption it would normally be expected to deal with from within the
cosy confines of its original plastic enclosure.
This wasn't the only modification I eventually found myself having to
apply. As I upgraded to later MoBos that weren't able to power the cpu vrm
from the 5 volt rail changing the 4 pin 12 volt MoBo connector's status
from "optional" to "mandatory", I had to add a 12v CPU VRM connector
lead. This was followed by the addition of a dual connector SATA power
lead - I think I was happy to carry on using my existing Molex to SATA
power adapters at that stage rather than remove one of the dual molex
leads to make space for a second SATA power cable (things were getting
rather crowded in the cable bundle exit hole by then).
You might question the "wisdumb" of modifying a mini ITX PSU that was
already ancient before I started using it. Part of the answer lies in the
fact of it not being a standard ATX form factor (although a SFF ATX PSU
[2] nicely slots into its place with very minor fettling work) and the
rest of it lies in its higher than usual efficiency (79% - not quite the
minimum to qualify as a Bronze 80 PSU but a damn sight better than the 66
to 70 percent typical of most cheap commodity ATX supplies - testing
using typical cheap commodity ATX PSUs showed a consumption some ten
watts greater than I was obtaining with that venerable mini ITX unit).
Also there was the fact that the 145 watt maximum rating, unlike the
maximum ratings of the cheap 'n' cheerful 300 to 450 watt ATX PSUs which
would be good only for a matter of seconds before going BANG! (as was
often true of the more ambitious 600 watt kit being reviewed in various
PC related magazines where they literally did just that after a mere ten
seconds at maximum load), this was an Old Skool rating where it would
carry this loading 24/7 indefinitely with a +50% surge rating measured in
tens of minutes rather than mere seconds. It may have seemed underpowered
but for the task at hand it was more than amply specced up.
[2] I keep a 270 Watt SFF ATX psu in the spares box to insure against the
day that the original mini-ITX finally expires from old age. The reason
I'm not using it *instead* of the mini ITX psu is because it would make
the NAS box consume an extra two watts. Still and all, as a spare unit,
it's still noticeably more efficient than a typical ATX psu.
When it comes to PSU efficiency, I've looked at *all* the options and
the plain fact is, compared to what I'm using and what I've got in the
"Spares Box", investing in a decent long life Bronze 80 or better 240
watt mini ITX psu will never repay itself within a ten year period.
Otoh, if I were upgrading from a commodity 300 W ATX psu with it's
typical 67% efficiency, I probably would see a ROI after a mere 4 or 5
years (but even that is marginal - the Bronze 80 PSU may not even last
that long).
My plan is to run the 145 W mini ITX psu into the ground and then do
likewise with its currently designated replacement at which point I may
well have obtained another suitable Bronze 80 or better rated SFF ATX psu
from a flea market trader for very little expense or I'm faced with an
unavoidable investment in a Bronze 80 or better specced mini ITX which,
by then, may well be considered the minimum standard permitted for use by
home IT kit and therefore absent any premium pricing penalty. Even if I'm
caught short on 'drop-in' replacements, I know I can always bodge up a
temporary fix if needs be (that's the beauty of home built kit :-).
--
Johnny B Good