What Does Gm Stand For In Weight

[Olivie Inoue]

Sowhat is the difference between single-grade and multi-grade oil? Single-grade oil worked great when the application did not demand for wide temperature ranges, like cars. An engine from an automobile will see extreme temperature change. If you live in Kodiak, Alaska, and start your car, the engine may be at -30F, so is the motor oil inside. When you drive down to a store, thanks to thermostat and combustion heating, the engine might warm to 180F, so does the oil inside. That is 210F change in temperature! As you can see, if single-grade oil was used in such application that was designed to perform only at -30F, engine will likely to seize or detrimental wear could occur at 210F, and vice versa, assuming no Polytron MTC oil additive has been applied.

Multi-grade is then, simply, advanced motor oil that can transform the viscosity depending on the operating temperature to most optimally run your engine. You would want low viscosity (easy to flow, like water) when you are cold, and higher viscosity (hard to flow, like honey) when you are hot. The effect of such abilities come from specialized polymer additives called Viscosity Index Improvers (VIIs), added at motor oil manufacturer. Note that viscosity of different grades varies logarithmic with temperature, that is, change in viscosity is 10 times more than change in temperature. This is getting bit too long now, so I will stop here. Well, with little more fun stuff!

These are very similar to the "big box store" brand stands under the brooklyn style name. They are a bit thinner material and reviews on them do specify some weight issues. Last I checked (literally yesterday) they were running deep discounts on some of their stands as well, as much to 60% off on some styles.

As far as what that stand can hold, it's from a brand that I don't know the engineering standards of, which means that if something happens, you're at the mercy of getting in contact with that company for any damage claims.

@TwoFace99 Hi... I don't think any of these would have an issue with the weight as long as they are level. I would be more concerned about securing the stand knowing how high the "center-of-gravity" is on some of the taller stands. They can be top heavy which is a possible issue when the front legs are particularly close to the back legs (a narrow stand from front to back). I would recommend, if possible, securing the top back edge of the stand to the wall for just an added bit of stability and peace-of-mind... but, that's just me. As far as aesthetics, I would vote for the more modern looking designs you posted in your initial question. Thanks.

Thank you very much. Would you suggest I push the stand up against the wall as much as possible (HOB filter will be apart of the tank setup)?

Also, I forgot to include one more image as I was more concerned with correcting my knowledge of the weight capacity, but this 55gal stand in particular can have its heights adjusted.

Aquatic fundamentals is likely a house brand at this point for one of the big box stores. I've seen them all over the place and a lot of people on the forums have used them. 55G isn't as common these days. You could even consider a 75G stand and then use a 55G tank on that stand (if you already have the tank). It gives you an upgrade path too.

I was just looking into a 40gal breeder and what the best over-engineered stand would be. I was also curious about the metal frames and came across this stand that looks cool, but couldn't find a lot of info about it and the dimensions don't seem accurate. ?? Any thoughts?

Doing a little research into MDF , Medium density fiberboard. And its use in aquarium stands. It's actually a very sturdy realistic looking engineered wood. As a top to a metal framed stand, it looks really nice. Any thoughts or does anyone have any experience with MDF board? ?

you can certainly get away with lesser furniture to park a tank on. however, i do tend to side with your husband, as it only takes one failure to become a disaster when dealing with objects that hold large amounts of water. ive kept 29gallons and smaller on furniture, but it gets to be a lot of weight after that.

I would try and see if the furniture has a weight limit listed. A gallon of water weighs just over 8 lbs plus the tank itself, substrate, filter, ect. But like you said I think common sense dictates I also believe most furniture is pretty sturdy the more sides it has the sturdier it'll be. I think surface area has alot to do with it spreading the weight out over a surface and not just a single point.

I've read that the rule is to make the stand be able to take 4 times the weight of your tank filled with water... Just to be sure in case a eartquake or a kid bumping on it.

I always construct my stands with 4x2s. I do not trust at all the compressed wood material commercials stands are made of. They might hold the tank withotu a problem but they don't give me peace of mind.

a 4x2 apparently can hold 1000 pounds vertically, when 8 feet long. Obviously I'm not making an 8' tall stand, so I'm not sure how the capacity if affected when you cut it. But I haven't had any problems, my stands are rock solid, with triple 4x2s at the 4 corners, and doubles on the center of the stand. Pretty sure they can hold several times the weight of the aquarium.

I agree with @Scott P., our stands look just like yours Henry C. When my husband built them, he took it out to the drive way and literally jumped up and down on it.. all 6ft, 220 pounds of him to make sure it had no flex. Haha!

I like how Scott mentioned to about how much 2x4's can hold considerable weight and then when you add compression of additional boards, that number only increases. I have heard a number similar for him and I totally get his reservations about going for anything less sturdy.

That being said, compressive strength of a dry pine 2x4, parallel to the grain, for a short column will be in the thousands of pounds. You have 16 of them, so it's definitely going to hold up a fish tank.

I suspect the issue with stands is likely flatness, not strength. I am entirely speculating here, but I could see that if the top of a stand were creating significant torsion or other unintended loads on the tank, that could potentially cause seals to fail. But again, I do not design fish tanks, so I really have no idea.

Thanks @Ozymandias! That is a really good point about flatness. I think that would definitely be a contributing factor to the strength and reliability of a stand. I know typically in the past I have worried more about leveling the stand for purposes of water level. I can absolutely see though how the torsion of a piece impacts the integrity of the piece which also contributes to the stress on the seams/seals of the tank.

If you look carefully at most fish tanks, the bottom glass is actually not touching the table underneath. Disclaimer: I've only dealt with tanks up to about 30 gal. The bottom is held up a small distance because it sits inside the bottom rectangle of the frame.

Assuming your tanks are built similarly, you can easily see that the only thing which matters for the table is the strength of the outer frame, not the top itself. Despite what some comments say, I'd be surprised if those two-inch frame parts could not handle considerable load. The legs are fine, since they only take a compressive load.

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