Tacx Trainer Software 2.0 Download
Muredac Boule
This sounds like the same issue i had with my 2021 Flux. I spent 10 frustrating days trying to get it to work in erg mode and finally gave up on it. I returned it and bought a Kickr Core which worked perfectly right out of the box. Good luck with yours and hopefully you can find a solution.
I have that issue once in a while with my Tacx Flux S, it gets stuck somewhere in its little brain. Did you try cycling the power to the trainer? That resets the controller; power management in Tacx trainers appears to be pretty dumb, the controller seems to stay powered up even if you let the trainer unused for hours or days. Once that poor little brain is off the rails, it will stay that way until you reset it.
How steady is your cadence in those cases? I assume you are using the trainer as the source for power measurement? Can you show an example of the fluctuations you observe? Both in erg and resistance modes?
The axle on the Neo 2T is asymmetric, with the drive side extending further from the centre of the unit than the other side - this off-centre design may mean that an amount of flex to the right is inherent in the design. But I am not sure if this is expected, or if my unit perhaps suffers more than most.
My bike has QR 130 dropouts and I am using the correct adaptor for this. I can use the QR 135 adaptor and this improves things a bit (positions the trainer more centrally between the dropouts). However, I am reluctant to use that because it is the wrong hub width for my frame.
The lean is very subtle. Only just detectable by eye unless you examine it very carefully. More noticeable is the feeling while riding it, where my body weight (80kg) seems to cause it to flex slightly further to the right that it does the left.
My guess is the small flex that happens to the frame is being favored to one side when tightening the QR down. I find that the less I pay attention to how its seating in the dropouts the less issues I have. My procedure is to sit the bike down into the drop outs, lift the front end, and let gravity line up the back. Sit it back down and tighten it down.
Although the shims do pull the bike upright, the asymmetry in loading means there is always more flex in one direction than the other. It never feel properly neutral. I recently got to use a Wahoo Kickr during a bike fit. That thing was so stable and bolt upright! I noticed the difference as soon as I got on. Makes me wish I had bought a Kickr instead.
So this category is more about the geekery details of all the ways you can connect, with some ways weighted more heavily than others. For example, Wahoo now supports WiFi built-in, and atop that, Race Mode at a higher 10Hz broadcast rate (so 10-times a second, which is 10x faster than the otherwise once/second).
There was only one of those small test scenarios, where we did see a slightly negligible impact. That was at maximal all out sprint for 3-seconds, but that was it. The rest of the time, the overwhelming feedback, and the test data showed that motion plates actually make sustained hard efforts feel a bit better.
However, when it comes to the base free portion of the app, Wahoo has more features/options. Most notably about custom page configuration, and the ability to export and sync to countless training platforms and file types, do other sports (like outdoor workouts), and even has more trainer configuration options than Garmin.
This is the second-most messy section after compatibility. But enough people have asked for me to include such a section in various reviews over the years, that I figure a comparison section is the most useful place for it.
First is distribution. Unquestionably, Garmin has wider distribution of this trainer in more countries/places. Or at least, it will in a few weeks as more containers start making their way from The Netherlands (where all Tacx trainers are made) to the rest of the world. While Wahoo has a good distribution network that covers many countries, the reality is that nobody has the distribution/availability breadth in the cycling sports tech space as Garmin does (unless you include Shimano).
Now, practically speaking, that may not matter to a ton of people. However, the second component of that is support. Which comes in two parts: Availability of support in your local country, and then the quality of support in your country. Garmin simply has support in more countries, largely handled by themselves in most places (versus distributors in smaller countries). And generally speaking (there will always be exceptions on either side), I hear very few complaints about Garmin support.
But the L/R Balance in any Neo (or trainer or spider-based powermeter) is just an estimation, not a true balance. It clearly sees in your comparison charts that the Assioma Duo is measuring completely the opposite than the Neo in certain situation during the same ride. a totally unusable data, meaningless to watch. if somebody has leg issue or wanna knows his/her true leg balance, buy a dual pedals or Infocrank.
Hi Ray. What do you think about the compatibility of the Neo 3T and a 1X gravel bike? I have a 10-52 cassette on the bike and a SRAM AXS XX1 transmission derailleur. So, a big cassette and a long cage derailleur. Obviously a bit smaller cassette could be used on the trainer but the long cage derailleur is there to stay. Is that likely to cause problems hitting somewhere? It would be nice to know before I buy anything. Is there any difference between the clearance on the 3T and the Neo2? A friend has a Neo2 that I could borrow to try. Thanks!
Wahoo Fitness, at least in the U.S., is an exemplar of superb service for their products. The 3M is way overpriced and the price will come down with public pushback as time passes and seasons change. Although neither compare to using a trainer on a rockerplate, the 3M only provides a little bit of wiggle compared to the Move. The self-immolation tendencies of the Neo have been corrected, as per the review, but that remains to be seen. The cause of that has never been revealed by Tacx(Garmin), to my knowledge. The close proximity of the rear derailleur, in lowest gear, to the metal flywheel is somewhat disconcerting, and in some will demand spacers.
Can anyone tell me if either of these trainers is compatible with a 12mm x 165mm thru axle?
I bought the bike last year assuming (rather stupidly) it would be fine with a trainer, but on researching I am struggling to find a direct drive one that openly states it will be.
Any advice on adapters would be welcomed!
So, check the actual specs for your bike on the manufacturer website. It will list that info in the frame and/or rear wheel info. Chances are good that you have a 12mm x 142mm (most road bikes) or 12mm x 148mm (most newer MTB) which all modern wheel-off trainers accommodate.
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This has been a known issue for more than 8 years when Tacx began making turbo trainers with the tractor-fed metal sleeve design. To diagnose my trainer, I learned that a relatively quiet Tacx trainer can produce upwards of 88db @ 55kph if inflicted with the disease. After downloading a sound level app on my phone, my fears were confirmed as my Tacx Genius had it bad: 100db max, 92db average, and soft-pedaling uphill still produced a horrific minimal noise level of 86db. Very bad indeed.
Step 2: Tape off all areas of the trainer with the exception of 4 holes (you can only work on 4 holes at a time, so you will need to break the process up into 3 parts to get to all 12 holes). The tape will help stabilize the roller and keep the epoxy from getting inside the trainer.
Step 4: Apply the Epoxy
When adding the epoxy to the holes, I used a toothpick and a pin to apply. You can be as messy as you want and use the taped areas to scrape off access epoxy or to scrape more into the holes as needed. Use the needle and swirl the epoxy into the hole to ensure air is not trapped inside.
so my Bushido Smart has developed this clicking sound and its getting increasingly louder as each ride is complete.. starts out quiet, clicks kick in once the roller heats up (and the metal expands). Sad, given the unit is 2 weeks shy of its first birthday and i have only ridden 1,200kms.. more or less. Im in Hong Kong and shipping the unit back to australia for repairs is not an option, even if under warranty. for a AU$900 unit, the build quality is disappointing. Thanks for the pics.. Im going to into surgery on it this weekend..
On closer inspection my vortex their is not movement of the steel sleeve, but rust by each of the holes. Anyone think the superglue fix may resolve issue. The PU looks to be good, see no gaps in the hole.
Dorset UK. I have used my iGenius almost every day for just over 5 years. I have a spinal cord injury C3/4, sustained falling off a road bike 6 years ago, so the turbo is a mainstay for my fitness and sanity. The increasing noise problem started about 4 months ago, looked at this epoxy fix, did it last weekend. Brilliant solution; now just as quiet as normal bike road noise.
We drilled out all the holes, using a vacuum cleaner to obviate poly bits, having first masking taped the ventilation slots. Used Araldite Rapid epoxy, mixed in small doses, kept it workable with the careful use of a hairdryer, left any residue apart from the tyre contact area. Tried it out after 24 hrs: puuuurrrrrfect!
Paul,
I have a couple of years of experience of the noise and the DIY solution. The good news: it works! It is easy to carry out the repair. If you read all my posts. The Anom message before yours is MY latest message.
You can generally center the wheel on the metal band somewhat by reversing the skewer in the wheel / frame. Having the quick release on the derailleur side is awkward, but centers the wheel on the roller much better.
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