idle adjustment help needed (v star yamaha)
Beemer Biker
only 144 miles in the year and a half. since he bought it off the showroom
new. There is no idle, ie: if I let off the gas it dies immediately.
There is no problem upshift, downshift, or just crusing, but if I hold the
clutch open too long it will die even if the engine is warmed up. It does
run better when warned up, but still stalls. It is for one of my kids who is
paying us for it. Anyway, should I mess with the idle screw? I have no
idea where it is, but the bike cannot be ridden as it easily stalls and
would be dangerous in traffic. Should I take it out on the expressway at
65-70 and try to get some gas thru it maybe add fuel injector cleaner? I
could ride it to work for a week or two, if so, does it have to be burned in
since it is still new? ie: Should I keep the speed under 50 for x number
of miles? If I knew where the idle screw or screws were i could possibly
adjust it.
Sunny Williams
news:HSWTc.1270$kR....@newssvr24.news.prodigy.com...
For the idle screw, look directly under the tank on the left hand side. It
isn't hidden. It won't hurt to adjust it, which I suggest you do after the
bike is warmed up. No special tool required, just your fingers. If the
bike has sat up that long, you might have some gunk in the carbs. Wouldn't
hurt to clean them. Another thing is the air flow tube. You might check
that to make sure nothing is blocking it. Pull the whole air cleaner
housing. You'll see the tube. You'll be able to see if anything is blocking
the hole. We have 3 V-Stars that we maintain ourselves, plus we have a
service manual. If you need a assistance, we'll be glad to try to help you
troubleshoot.
Or you could take it back to the dealer where he bought it and have them go
over it. It won't be free, but then if it hasn't been ridden but 144 miles
since he bought it 18 months ago, it hasn't even been ridden enough to seat
the valves good.
--
Sunny, E.O.B. #6 (the original)
'02 XVS650A (Deerslayer)
To reply, pkriders is domain.
My daughter says we have 3 seasons in Texas:
"Warm, hot and 'Flip it before it burns'."
Beemer Biker
"Sunny Williams" <su...@this-is-not-my-domain.org> wrote in message
news:10i0qdh...@corp.supernews.com...
<snip>
>
> For the idle screw, look directly under the tank on the left hand side.
It
> isn't hidden. It won't hurt to adjust it, which I suggest you do after
the
> bike is warmed up. No special tool required, just your fingers. If the
> bike has sat up that long, you might have some gunk in the carbs.
Wouldn't
> hurt to clean them. Another thing is the air flow tube. You might check
> that to make sure nothing is blocking it. Pull the whole air cleaner
> housing. You'll see the tube. You'll be able to see if anything is
blocking
> the hole. We have 3 V-Stars that we maintain ourselves, plus we have a
> service manual. If you need a assistance, we'll be glad to try to help
you
> troubleshoot.
>
Thanks Sunny! Shortly after I posted about the idle problem we tried
adjusting the cable at the throttle. The cable was loose and we tightened
it up to where it now just idles when the choke is pulled out. It still
dies when the choke is released however. I will try some carburater cleaner
in the tank and will take it to work this week to try to burn in the engine.
My wifes brother brought it over last night, he said he filled up with
regular gas on his way to drop it off at our home. I knew he wanted to sell
it but I didnt know I had "bought it" till I saw in in the garage. We have
the manual and the original papers. It needs to run no more than 1/3
throttle for 500 miles and no more than 1/2 throttle for 1000 miles
according to the manual. It is way underpowered compared to my R1100RT but
it has a nice paint job and looks good. It is a 2003 XVS650ACS that he got
in january 03 and literally has 144 miles on it as sitting in my garage last
night. If I am restricted to 1/3 throttle for 500 miles it will be a long
ride to work as I commute on an expressway. It is not as powerful or quick
as a ninja 500 one of my kids used to have, but it does not vibrate and is
comfortable to ride unlike the ninja.
another viewer
"Beemer Biker" <anti...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> It is a 2003 XVS650ACS that he got
> in january 03 and literally has 144 miles on it as sitting in my garage last
> night.
if it has been sitting for the past year and a half, the carb is likely
varnished up up and needs to be boiled clean in a solvent tank. carb
cleaner in the fuel isn't going to do it. from what you've described,
the symptoms match that. if it idles better with the choke out, that
means it's idling with the increased fuel mixture but not enough fuel is
available at standard mix with no choke, ie it's plugged up jets/needle.
a good cleaning and then some actual usage will make it right. a bottle
of Stabil would be good a good idea for the future it it's going to sit.
--
Iron Butt Assoc., WATR 4X, BL3 paparazzi, E.O.B.
R1100RT, R75/5
"If you are civil to the voluble, they will abuse your patience;
if brusque, your character." - Jonathon Swift
Sunny Williams
You're gonna have to use something besides an additive to clean them. If it
idles with the choke out, then they are gunked up with the old gas that has
turned to varnish. It is restricting fuel flow.
> My wifes brother brought it over last night, he said he filled up with
> regular gas on his way to drop it off at our home. I knew he wanted to
sell
> it but I didnt know I had "bought it" till I saw in in the garage. We
have
> the manual and the original papers. It needs to run no more than 1/3
> throttle for 500 miles and no more than 1/2 throttle for 1000 miles
> according to the manual. It is way underpowered compared to my R1100RT but
> it has a nice paint job and looks good. It is a 2003 XVS650ACS that he
got
> in january 03 and literally has 144 miles on it as sitting in my garage
last
> night. If I am restricted to 1/3 throttle for 500 miles it will be a long
> ride to work as I commute on an expressway. It is not as powerful or
quick
> as a ninja 500 one of my kids used to have, but it does not vibrate and is
> comfortable to ride unlike the ninja.
>
That break in period the manual suggests, is total hogwash. Ride the poop
outta that thing once you get gunk out. Then I believe it is at 600 miles,
that you should change the oil and filter. You might need to adjust the
valves later, but not for a while.
Y'all have fun, ride safe. :-)
Mike Gladu
Biker" <anti...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> "Sunny Williams" <su...@this-is-not-my-domain.org> wrote in message
> news:10i0qdh...@corp.supernews.com...
> >
> > For the idle screw, look directly under the tank on the left hand side.
> > It isn't hidden. It won't hurt to adjust it, which I suggest you do after
> > the bike is warmed up. No special tool required, just your fingers.
> Thanks Sunny! Shortly after I posted about the idle problem we tried
> adjusting the cable at the throttle. The cable was loose and we tightened
> it up to where it now just idles when the choke is pulled out. It still
> dies when the choke is released however.
Since the bike has so few miles on it, I suspect it is only running on
whatever prep it got when it rolled out the dealers door. It hasn't had
it's 'first service' at 500/600 miles, and the idle may never have been
set up exactly right from the beginning.
Until you reach 500/600 miles, or whatever the manual recommends as the
first service interval during break-in, IMHO, just use the carb knob and
bump up the idle a bit to whatever setting is necessary to idle while
warm, and ride the bike. Stay away from additives during break-in (again,
IMHO - additives are a bad idea).
I would treat the bike as if it was new, and plan to have it serviced as
if still under warranty at 600 miles.
Now, if you MUST take things apart, limit that to removing the float bowl
to check for varnish and other gunk. If there's something in there, THEN
do the dip-cleaning of the carb. No reason to spray or add stuff if it
isn't necessary.
My general experience parallels your situation, in that I work on lots of
bikes that haven't reached their first service interval. The difference -
where yours is virually new - mine usually have been sitting up for 20-30
years with gas in them.
If I can get away without cleaning a carb - great. It doesn't happen very
often. Deposits from ancient gas mostly. Your bike has only had 2 tanks of
gas run through it. I would guess you don't need cleaning if the bike
idles at all, just a good flushing of the old gas and some minor air and
idle screw adjustments that would be normal for a bike coming up on it's
first service.
Oh, and about the break-in... I would run it mildly, not at any one
sustained speed, never so slow as to overheat, and certainly not run wide
open until 400-500 miles. Get everything seated and run-in without strain.
After 500 miles, do what you like.
On a personal bike it's important to me to ride that last 100 miles before
the first service the way I will be running it afterwards, so I can point
out any problems to the service tech and get them fixed under warranty.
Even though yours is out of warranty, it still should get the once-over at
600.
Have fun with it.
Ride safe.
Mike G.
-
------------------------------------------------------------------
Mike Gladu, Cycling Photojournalist, Infinite HangTime Photography
Honda '82 CB900F, '84 XR200R, '70/'71/'80/'81/'82/'83 C70 Passport
Honda '86 VT500C, '97 Dream 50, Husqvarna '84 510TE, BMW '74 R60/5
Passport/C70 info: http://www.velodrome.com/HondaC70/HondaC70.html
==================================================================
Ingram_and_Friends
probably has a plugged up idle circuit. Old gas turns to lacquer and
stops up small orifices. It usually effects the idle circuit because the
jetting is so small. Using the choke masks the problem by enriching the
mixture as does tightening the throttle cable. A throttle cable with no
play moves the carb off the idle circuit. No amount of high speed riding
will clear the idle circuit. The carbs probably should be cleaned and
checked.
James
Beemer Biker
"Mike Gladu" <myfir...@velodrome.com> wrote in message
news:myfirstname-16...@10.0.1.5...
> In article <pL1Uc.6650$9f2....@newssvr22.news.prodigy.com>, "Beemer
> Biker" <anti...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> > "Sunny Williams" <su...@this-is-not-my-domain.org> wrote in message
> > news:10i0qdh...@corp.supernews.com...
> > >
> > > For the idle screw, look directly under the tank on the left hand
side.
> > > It isn't hidden. It won't hurt to adjust it, which I suggest you do
after
> > > the bike is warmed up. No special tool required, just your fingers.
>
> > Thanks Sunny! Shortly after I posted about the idle problem we tried
> > adjusting the cable at the throttle. The cable was loose and we
tightened
> > it up to where it now just idles when the choke is pulled out. It still
> > dies when the choke is released however.
>
> Since the bike has so few miles on it, I suspect it is only running on
> whatever prep it got when it rolled out the dealers door. It hasn't had
> it's 'first service' at 500/600 miles, and the idle may never have been
> set up exactly right from the beginning.
>
> Until you reach 500/600 miles, or whatever the manual recommends as the
> first service interval during break-in, IMHO, just use the carb knob and
> bump up the idle a bit to whatever setting is necessary to idle while
> warm, and ride the bike. Stay away from additives during break-in (again,
> IMHO - additives are a bad idea).
you posted this too late, i added some cleaner, havent seen any difference
yet unfortunately.
>
> I would treat the bike as if it was new, and plan to have it serviced as
> if still under warranty at 600 miles.
>
> Now, if you MUST take things apart, limit that to removing the float bowl
> to check for varnish and other gunk. If there's something in there, THEN
> do the dip-cleaning of the carb. No reason to spray or add stuff if it
> isn't necessary.
>
> My general experience parallels your situation, in that I work on lots of
> bikes that haven't reached their first service interval. The difference -
> where yours is virually new - mine usually have been sitting up for 20-30
> years with gas in them.
>
> If I can get away without cleaning a carb - great. It doesn't happen very
> often. Deposits from ancient gas mostly. Your bike has only had 2 tanks of
> gas run through it. I would guess you don't need cleaning if the bike
> idles at all, just a good flushing of the old gas and some minor air and
> idle screw adjustments that would be normal for a bike coming up on it's
> first service.
>
> Oh, and about the break-in... I would run it mildly, not at any one
> sustained speed, never so slow as to overheat, and certainly not run wide
> open until 400-500 miles. Get everything seated and run-in without strain.
>
I am taking it to work daily, 35 miles round trip, and will take it in when
I get to 600. However, I commute on highway where 65 is posted speed. I
have been staying on the RHS but this bike runs so slow (compared to my
R1100RT) it is pathetic. Today a city truck hauling a backend honked at me.
I opened it up yesterday on the way home and was lucky to pass 60 and that
was downhill. I googled around and the top end for a v-star 650 is in the
low 80's but people claim it accelerates good. When I take off from stop,
it is like 2nd gear, and it can easily stall from stop. Any hill I see on
the highway requires me to downshift. I think something is wrong with carb,
not just idle. I did find that the big screw on the left is an idle
adjustment and now it runs w/o the choke being pulled. It backfires
occassionally when it is cold but not as bad as when my bro-in-law demo'ed
it in his garage a couple of months ago. When I take it in for 600 "first
service" should I take it to the dealer or just go to a nearby used
motorcycle shop?
I tried attaching a backpack to the rear seat. Except for the helmet lock
on the left, there are not any good points for a bungie to connect to. Not
sure how one would hang a saddle bag. It would appear a kit to attach the
saddle bags would have to be obtained.
another viewer
Ingram_and_Friends <ja...@ingramandfriends.com> wrote:
> A bike with so few miles on it and one that has been sitting for so long
> probably has a plugged up idle circuit. Old gas turns to lacquer and
> stops up small orifices. It usually effects the idle circuit because the
> jetting is so small. Using the choke masks the problem by enriching the
> mixture as does tightening the throttle cable. A throttle cable with no
> play moves the carb off the idle circuit. No amount of high speed riding
> will clear the idle circuit. The carbs probably should be cleaned and
> checked.
ayup, what he said, i said, some others have said.....
you're not doing that bike any good by riding it that way, and could be
doing it some bad. the carb is gummed up, you are running way lean
which makes it run hot, not a good thing on a new motor. pulling the
choke out will enrichen it, but at the expense of available air intake
which makes it not run well when it needs air, like accelerating.
pull the carb off, it will take 10 minutes to do that, take it to the
shop and have them boil the thing, then put it back on and break in the
bike properly. you will save yourself some aggravation and the bike
will be the better for it, both short and long term.
Bill Walker
Been following this thread a little bit.. Seems there are several problems
with the bike.. First.. the lack of use has caused the carbs to be fouled ..
being stored with gas in them.. Then.. the performance as compared to your
BMW is in question..
Let me point out, that you weigh approx. 250 lbs. or more, from my
impression.. That little 650 won't give you the same performance as 1300
cc's.. My neighbor had the same problem when he purchased a 650 Yamaha.
V-Star.. He is about 250 lbs..
I had the same problem when I bought this 800 Vulcan.. I was used to 12 and
1300 cc motorcycles with a lot of power.. At the time I bought the 800
Vulcan, I was intending to buy a 1500 Vulcan.. I rode an 800 demonstrator
that was being used by the guy selling me the 1500.. while they were
servicing my bike.. After a couple of hours, I had decided that I would
prefer the 800 and bought a new one in the box..
After servicing, I rode the motorcycle home.. Within a few days, I was
convinced that I made a mistake.. However.. I stuck with it and rode it
through the break-in.. Then went back to the dealer.. jetted the carbs and
installed after market pipes.. That enhanced the performance of my bike
considerably..
I mentored my neighbor through his break in and afterwards did the same
thing with his V-Star.. We found that jetting the carbs and installing after
market pipes, also enhanced the performance of his bike.. Although
considering his weight, the 650 V-Star would never perform for him, for
example like the 1100 or 1500 cc engines would..
Rather than fighting with additives, adjustments and other corrective
measures.. it would seem prudent and more cost effective to kill two birds
with one stone.. Take that puppy to a qualified tech.. pull the carburetor,
give it a good cleaning and then rejett it to conform to after market
pipes.. Then install the pipes .. Your carburetor problems should be
resolved and your performance will be enhanced somewhat..
Those 650 V-Stars are good motorcycles and perform well.. A man of my weight
could perhaps, make that bike perform with your BMW, on a road trip..
Whereas a man of your weight would not get that performance from it.. I rode
my neighbors V-Star with several muscle bikes on a road trip to Eureka
Springs, in the mountains.. Didn't have a problem making the bike perform
with them.. One that same trip, my hefty neighbor rode my 800 Vulcan.. The
performance of the bike was markedly less while he rode it.. Partly due to
his inexperience and partly because of the difference in our weights..
Just an idea, but it might be the less expensive and less frustrating
correction that you need... Don't give up on the bike from frustration,
because, as I say.. "The 650cc V-Star is a good bike..
Your friend in Irving
Bill Walker
>
ShadowHawk
If you decide you just don't want to mess with it, and want to sell the
bike, shoot me an email off-list, and give me a ballpark number that you'd
ask for it. <grin>
Rex S.
r...@treasureboards.com
"Beemer Biker" <anti...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in
news:HSWTc.1270$kR....@newssvr24.news.prodigy.com:
Mike Gladu
<anti...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> I am taking it to work daily, 35 miles round trip, and will take it in when
> I get to 600. However, I commute on highway where 65 is posted speed. I
> have been staying on the RHS but this bike runs so slow (compared to my
> R1100RT) it is pathetic.
There certainly could be something wrong, but don't be fooled - a
performance gap like that is natural. A 600cc Yamaha cruiser won't pull or
rev like an equivalent size sport bike. Even at 100cc larger, the Yamaha
probably doesn't perform much better than my 500cc twin Shadow, so I would
suggest you get used to giving bikes that size a generous handful of
throttle to get it moving.
Even though my bike runs fine, it simply doesn't have the power or torque
of a big bike to call upon, so it usually needs to be revved out in a
lower gear to get to speed, and takes a LOOONG time to pull in a higher
gear roll-on. Hills, stiff winds, some overpasses and especially riding
two-up pretty much eliminate the abiliity to use 6th gear (OD). I treat it
the same way I would my car towing a trailer - the engine isn't quite big
enough to pull at cruising speeds under all conditions in overdrive, so I
have to either shift more, or leave it in 'drive'.
It takes a bit more power than 600ccs to handle cruising under all
conditions at freeway speeds.
> I googled around and the top end for a v-star 650 is in the
> low 80's but people claim it accelerates good.
One person's good is another person's slug <grin>.
> When I take off from stop,
> it is like 2nd gear, and it can easily stall from stop.
That could just be the difference in power between your beemer and this
new ride, and it could still be a problem.
> Any hill I see on
> the highway requires me to downshift.
Like I said, this isn't always a problem, but I'm keeping an open mind.
> I think something is wrong with carb,
> not just idle. I did find that the big screw on the left is an idle
> adjustment and now it runs w/o the choke being pulled.
That's hopeful.
> It backfires
> occassionally when it is cold but not as bad as when my bro-in-law demo'ed
> it in his garage a couple of months ago.
This is the way my 500 acts every spring when it gets rolled out for the
new season. A combination of old gas, lean carb settings, low output on
the coils and too large gap on the plugs (almost all correct themselves
after the first ride of the season or a spring cleaning tune-up).
> When I take it in for 600 "first
> service" should I take it to the dealer or just go to a nearby used
> motorcycle shop?
If I were going to be buying that bike, I would want it looked over by a
factory-trained mechanic before taking it out on the open road - but from
what you've described, it soesn't sound badly in need of immediate work,
and you are within only a few days of taking it in for service.
Ride it a few more times to make sure all the old gas is gone and then
take it to Yamaha and give it the full spa treatment.
I trust my local guys to do many things, but for a 'break-in first
service' - I would let the so-called experts do their thing as if the bike
were still under warranty.
> I tried attaching a backpack to the rear seat. Except for the helmet lock
> on the left, there are not any good points for a bungie to connect to. Not
> sure how one would hang a saddle bag. It would appear a kit to attach the
> saddle bags would have to be obtained.
A rear rack, saddle bag w/guards and a good tank bag would all be good
aquisitions. A small bar-mounted deflector screen too. Nothing so big that
it will slow the bike down more.
Beemer Biker
"Bill Walker" <bill.w...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:5PpUc.11488$Kf4....@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
>
<snip>
>
> Been following this thread a little bit.. Seems there are several problems
> with the bike.. First.. the lack of use has caused the carbs to be fouled
..
> being stored with gas in them.. Then.. the performance as compared to your
> BMW is in question..
>
> Let me point out, that you weigh approx. 250 lbs. or more, from my
> impression.. That little 650 won't give you the same performance as 1300
> cc's.. My neighbor had the same problem when he purchased a 650 Yamaha.
> V-Star.. He is about 250 lbs..
>
Nope, I am 195 and only got a 6 pack, you got me confused with AV who has
the 12 pack. I got 3 pictures here http://tinyurl.com/32f34 and am at the
very bottom. AV is there too, but im not sure where as there were a couple
that had "X" on their nametag instead of their name.
> I had the same problem when I bought this 800 Vulcan.. I was used to 12
and
> 1300 cc motorcycles with a lot of power.. At the time I bought the 800
> Vulcan, I was intending to buy a 1500 Vulcan.. I rode an 800 demonstrator
> that was being used by the guy selling me the 1500.. while they were
> servicing my bike.. After a couple of hours, I had decided that I would
> prefer the 800 and bought a new one in the box..
>
> After servicing, I rode the motorcycle home.. Within a few days, I was
> convinced that I made a mistake.. However.. I stuck with it and rode it
> through the break-in.. Then went back to the dealer.. jetted the carbs and
> installed after market pipes.. That enhanced the performance of my bike
> considerably..
>
After I read this I called up "The Motorcycle Shop" a used bike place nearby
on austin highway. They confirmed exactly what you are telling me. The
owner (he has a thick british accent) said that he had done at leat 6
rejetts of v-star in the last year. According to him, the 650cc right out
of the box cannot pass DOT emission tests unless the carb are set to lean.
The dealer will sell the rejet kit, but will not perform the rejet service.
He said to wait till 600 miles and come in for the rejet. The kit is $125
and he wants $50 per hour and claims it is a full day job. I cannot just
take in the carbs as the engine has to be running. I looked in a manual and
it shows a vacuum guage being used to set each carb (i got just 2). I dont
have that guage but $50 x 8 is $400 and then the kit is $125 that that seems
steep. This guy also told me that harleys have the exact problem, cant pass
dot unless the carbs are set lean and then they loose power. He has been
rejetting harleys for same problem, backfiring even when new and no power
out of the box.
> I mentored my neighbor through his break in and afterwards did the same
> thing with his V-Star.. We found that jetting the carbs and installing
after
> market pipes, also enhanced the performance of his bike.. Although
> considering his weight, the 650 V-Star would never perform for him, for
> example like the 1100 or 1500 cc engines would..
>
> Rather than fighting with additives, adjustments and other corrective
> measures.. it would seem prudent and more cost effective to kill two birds
> with one stone.. Take that puppy to a qualified tech.. pull the
carburetor,
> give it a good cleaning and then rejett it to conform to after market
> pipes.. Then install the pipes .. Your carburetor problems should be
> resolved and your performance will be enhanced somewhat..
>
How much of a difference do the pipes make? Clearly, the v-star sounds like
a go-cart but I am interested in performance and sound is secondary. I am
still pissed off about that city truck towing backhoe that honked at me as I
was too slow.
Bill Walker
>
> "Bill Walker" <bill.w...@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:5PpUc.11488$Kf4....@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
> >
> <snip>
> >
> > Been following this thread a little bit.. Seems there are several
problems
> > with the bike.. First.. the lack of use has caused the carbs to be
fouled
> ..
> > being stored with gas in them.. Then.. the performance as compared to
your
> > BMW is in question..
> >
> > Let me point out, that you weigh approx. 250 lbs. or more, from my
> > impression.. That little 650 won't give you the same performance as 1300
> > cc's.. My neighbor had the same problem when he purchased a 650 Yamaha.
> > V-Star.. He is about 250 lbs..
> >
>
> Nope, I am 195 and only got a 6 pack, you got me confused with AV who has
> the 12 pack. I got 3 pictures here http://tinyurl.com/32f34 and am at the
> very bottom. AV is there too, but im not sure where as there were a
couple
> that had "X" on their nametag instead of their name.
Yeah.. OK... Sorry..
>
>
> After I read this I called up "The Motorcycle Shop" a used bike place
nearby
> on austin highway. They confirmed exactly what you are telling me. The
> owner (he has a thick british accent) said that he had done at leat 6
> rejetts of v-star in the last year. According to him, the 650cc right out
> of the box cannot pass DOT emission tests unless the carb are set to lean.
> The dealer will sell the rejet kit, but will not perform the rejet
service.
> He said to wait till 600 miles and come in for the rejet. The kit is $125
> and he wants $50 per hour and claims it is a full day job.
Whew.. He's real proud of his "kits" and he sure takes a long time to do a
simple job.. When we did the same thing to my neighbor's bike, we weren't
gone from home more than two hours.. The hourly rate is about on par with
what most tech's get for their work.. He's eating your lunch on the time..
I cannot just
> take in the carbs as the engine has to be running.
Yeah.. I forgot about that ..
I looked in a manual and
> it shows a vacuum guage being used to set each carb (i got just 2). I
dont
> have that guage but $50 x 8 is $400 and then the kit is $125 that that
seems
> steep.
That's way too steep for the job..
This guy also told me that harleys have the exact problem, cant pass
> dot unless the carbs are set lean and then they loose power.
Yep
He has been
> rejetting harleys for same problem, backfiring even when new and no power
> out of the box.
Yessir... Too bad, we aren't closer to El Paso.. Barnett's would be the
place to take it..
>
> > Rather than fighting with additives, adjustments and other corrective
> > measures.. it would seem prudent and more cost effective to kill two
birds
> > with one stone.. Take that puppy to a qualified tech.. pull the
> carburetor,
> > give it a good cleaning and then rejett it to conform to after market
> > pipes.. Then install the pipes .. Your carburetor problems should be
> > resolved and your performance will be enhanced somewhat..
> >
>
> How much of a difference do the pipes make? Clearly, the v-star sounds
like
> a go-cart but I am interested in performance and sound is secondary. I am
> still pissed off about that city truck towing backhoe that honked at me as
I
> was too slow.
The opened up pipes will make some difference in the performance, coupled
with the carburetor rejetting.. The sound will naturally change somewhat,
but you can make that engine sound almost like anything you want it to.. The
one that I have experience with had a low, mellow rumble to it.. LOL.. It
sure won't sound like a "go-cart" anymore..
IceMan
When I had mine rejetted I paid $130.00 at the Kawasaki shop and I supplied
the Jets.
You may want to find a small local dealer and see what they say. It sounds
like he is charging you for the letting the bike sit in the garage instead of
chaging you for the work.
You could find a place with a Dyno and have them do it and still pay under
$200.00
IceMan
In article <f%KUc.34165$SC1....@nwrddc03.gnilink.net>, "Bill Walker"