Tuning settings for PLA

[Ian Gibbs]

I was using AMZ3D PLA and it was working well. I couldn't get the colour I wanted so bought some Eryone. Not so good. I've ended up with a lot of it before working out by deduction that the filament is the variable that has caused my significant loss of adhesion. A certain bit of g-code works beautifully with AMZ3D, badly with Eryone (see attached photo). 

Could anyone advise on which settings in Cura I should try playing with, and in what order?

Regarding the attached, I have tried with a brim but even the brim won't stick consistently. The curling up seems to also happen on the layer currently being printed, making overhangs pretty ropey too. The print being pictured got knocked off by the nozzle before being finished.

Thanks for your experience.

[Alex Gibson]

What sort of temperature were you printing at?  I recently did a job where Eryone white was specifically requested, and printed at 200C which is a fair bit lower than I usually work at.

 

It is fairly waxy and tends to shrink on itself a little  - suggest thick and very slow first layer.

 

Alex Gibson

 

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[daprigoo]

perhaps also increase retraction distance a little?

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[Ian Gibbs]

I should add that the first layer itself appears OK. The second layer is where the curling up at the edges starts to happen, and as more layers go on the curling gets worse. In order to narrow down my problems I had reverted to the Cura's Generic PLA profile, and their Standard Quality settings, so no tweaks at all from me. These settings seem fine with AMZ3D. That's 200/60. I'm assuming that adhesion is the problem. Do you think I'm right? Which setting is most likely to help and thus my first port of call?

[Alex Gibson]

That’s a helpful benchmark, as I was printing using Cura defaults for Ender-3 machines, at 200/60 with Eryone white, and zero issues.

 

Try going back to basics with cleaning – both vigorously rubbing down the bed with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of any grease, and cleaning out (or replacing) the nozzle.

[https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-nozzle-cleaning-the-easiest-way-to-do-it/]

 

Then check the first layer is appropriately ‘smooshed’ into the build bed – just to the point the 1^st bead of filament is slightly flattened, but not transparently thin.

Finally, check while printing if you can hear little pops coming from the nozzle (like rice krispies!) indicating excess moisture in the filament escaping and causing inconsistency.

 

Finally, do you have another reel of the same?  I had good luck with 3 of 3 reels, but the designer who specified the filament has had ‘bad’ reels before.  It’s at the cheap end of filament and can be inconsistent – but that’s only hearsay for me.

 

Cheers,

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[Ian Bowden]

Ian G,

I would like you to know that, in my experience at least, curling and warping can be caused by air movements, draughts, in the vicinity. 

So, unless your printer is a fully-enclosed model, it will be worthwhile hacking a cardboard box into a temporary shelter by way of experiment.

Even though you had no problems until you changed brand of filament, cooler air could still be a factor. 

Ian B.

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