Infinity Box Drivers
Charise Scrivner
INFINITY camera device drivers are required on any Windows computer, in order for the camera to be recognized by the PC. When an INFINITY camera is to be used with any third-party software package that does not include these device drivers as part of the software installation, the package of INFINITY Camera device drivers should be downloaded and installed. This package does not include either the INFINITY CAPTURE or INFINITY ANALYZE application software to control the camera. Save the installation package to your local computer before running it.
It is necessary to be logged into the PC as a full Administrator account when installing camera device drivers. Please follow the installation instructions provided on the Microscope Cameras Drivers & Downloads page.
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Needless to say, I was not pleased with the results. I have not as of yet dissected the power-supplies to look for the failure mode. It is possible that they have made improvements since that time. Also, maybe fine under more temperate conditions. You may be able to glean more information as to the actual manufacturer by looking up the Intertek certifications.
i got the evo3 yesterday. looks like a very decent light. the driver is supposed to be a sosen im pretty sure. ive had great experience with ac infinity warranty service so im not worried a bit. @Ris hooked me up. you have any questions just ask. have a good weekend.
I don't know much about audio electronics, except for what impedance is and ohms law, current etc. And i want to upgrade some 90s Infinitys (SM112s) with some earlier Kappa drivers, hopefully to improve the sound and bass. The SM112 were not a great speaker. They are a 3 way 10" bass, and PolyCell tweeter.
The SM112 was not a bad speaker. It was a horrible speaker. IMO, every single aspect of the speaker was wrong. It is not, IMO, worth bothering with. Replacing woofers and tweeters is only 1/8th of your battle. The mids were disgusting too. Then there is the crossover. That will need to be completely rebuilt to suit the new drivers. However, if you must play with some of the best tweeters ever designed and through them at your SM112s, then use a 1 Amp, fast blow fuse in series with the EMIT.
My advice is simple. Invest in the tools and learning curve first or consider drivers and crossovers as things not to be meddled with! Most people would run the other way, if they knew what is involved. Many who have tinkered would probably put their work in the bin if they realised how messed up their modified crossover is.
HI, thanks for the comments. Its relevant, but not as constructive as i hoped. So i gather it is not as straight forward as i first thought! I am well aware of how bad the SM112s are!! The bass is there sometimes and not other times, but what is there is not deep or clear but ...just not good. I put damping in, they had none inside, most likely to increase the SPL per watt rather than trying to save 50c (perhaps for more volume in the listening room compared to other speakers) . The midrange was way too intrusive and bright so i put an L pad on the back to balance them out a little. These two changes did improve things a little
However, you may have missed a point - i am only wanting to gauge the difference or improvement if any. Don't worry about me wasting time, its all experience and what we do is what we do. And i did say i didn't want to redesign the crossover for an initial listen. I also want to sell these speakers anyway, so i am hoping that if they have been improved with better components and sound better, and more unique, may make them more attractive.
Maybe i am wasting my time but was hoping for some positive advice - is the resistor in line with the tweeter going to work for a simple listen ? - the inline fuse is a good idea and i will do that as well. Same deal with the Technics, 4ohm woofer with an 8 ohm crossover woofer output, just a resistor? And how would i work out the value?
My advice was positive. And no, do not place a resistor in series with a woofer. You won't need one in series with the EMIT. As has been stated, unless you approach this project with some serious knowledge, a bunch of test equipment and suitable references, you will be wasting your time. And yes, I understand that time is yours to waste.
mmm, don't agree. I'll start with last thing, the rhetorical question, would i spend $20k modding a Hyundai Excel? No i wouldn't myself, as i actually am into the restoration of vintage US cars, but if the owner of that Hyundai approached me saying he had $20k to spend on his Hyundai, and i could see he was serious, i would do my best to help him out to the best of my knowledge and experience. I wouldn't say, its a worthless car and you are wasting your time on that Hyundai and don't do it. Its not my concern how he spends his money.
Also, i have the best test equipment money can't buy. A set of ears and the human brain. And from my post, i said i just want to have a temporary listen first to ascertain if the swaps will be worthwhile. How they sound will be worth more than 100 data sheets and graphs saying whether it will or will not sound better.
Now i have PM'ed a sound engineer in the States, on another forum. He replied positively, saying i could put a 2W 8ohm resistor in parallel with the Emit to bring the numbers into line -saying also that if the power rating of both tweeters are similar, then i shouldn't need a fuse, although i could put one in if i wanted. He also said that there is always a risk in the best of circumstances.
Now i won't be turning up the volume a great deal, a 30 minutes listen will be all i need to tell if the driver swaps have improved the sound. If it is improved enough to warrant the swap, then i will look into modding the crossover properly.
You said you provided advice, but the main thrust of that advice was to say, don't do it, its a waste of time. That's not really constructive advice, its just your opinion. The fuse was worthwhile advice. Saying not to put resistors with the drivers is advice, sort of, except you didn't give an alternative, aside from getting full-bottle on theory and getting some test equipment.
Lastly, not sure why you would say the 6Kappa are more worthy of modding. Its the exact opposite of how i think...the Kappas were already a great speaker with a great deal of R&D gone into them - why try and improve on the design - surely that would be more of a 'waste of time' than modifying a lesser speaker like these SM112s to sound better. Which, in the end, is all i'm trying to do. Thanks for reading.
I agree with you that trying to mod the speakers could be an interesting learning experience. I also agree with the others that, without extensive reading and research, the project is highly likely to fail in terms of SQ (unless by fluke).
However, if you're keen, I think you should give it a go. But you should probably be willing to get a measurement setup (mic, preamp, soundcard and software) and an impedance jig (what you've been measuring so far seems to be the DC resistance, which is a less useful measurement).
Upgrading drivers is virtually as big and complex a job as designing the speakers from scratch. The replacement drivers will have different sensitivities (ie will play louder or softer with same power input), will have different impedances (which will be frequency-dependent and therefore not possible to correct with a simple resistor), and different acoustic centres. They'll also interact with the box differently.
You left out one, vital, step. Measure the impedance curve of the drivers, for their intended operating frequency ranges. Without that step, everything else is a waste of time. That said, the nice thing about the EMIT is that it can be treated as a resistor (up to around 100kHz).
Ok thanks Andreasmaan, i understand completely what you say and appreciate the complexities in doing what i would like to do to achieve the best success. But for an initial listen I am just going to put the bass driver straight in place as they were/are both 4 ohm drivers and put a 3.5ohm 10W and fuse in series with the +ve line of the tweeter. And start the volume and L pad setting low and go from there. If it sounds promising immediately I will then look at learning how to properly design and build a crossover. The rear firing port also has the option of being blocked or left as is with the different woofer. I will look up the cabinet volumes of the 6Kappa compared to these. What will most likely happen if the ear and brain test is not promising, as i am selling these speakers anyway, is just putting them back as original and offering prospective buyers the options of the other drivers as part of the negotiation. regards
The crossover is a part of the speaker that takes a lot of time to design correctly. Here is a pic of the crossover from a Duntech PCL 10, the designer took 2-3 months full time just on this model to design and test the speaker, gives an indication of how much care and expertise is involved to get it right.
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