Cinema Pakse

[Rashawn Devegowda]

Visualizethis movie: Set in modern day Vientiane, social status rules your destiny. A poor rural man making meager means as a mechanic collides with a wealthy privileged young man seeking limitless gratification.

Before Lao New Wave, there were two eras of Lao cinema, before 1975 and after 1975. Before, there were many war and propaganda films made, many commercial theater operated at the time in Laos. After the Soviet Union collapsed, there was no more funding for filmmaking, no more imported movies for screening, therefore Lao cinema quickly faded away for almost one generation. Until 2000s, Lao Art Media was the only company that made Lao movies along side with movies made by the Lao cinema department. The movie in this era are mostly made in melodrama style, similar to Thai soaps, most of the content are propaganda and educational, which failed to catch the attention of the Lao audience, and some quality movies are not 100% Lao made movie (for example, they were co-produced and co-directed with foreign production such as Thailand or Vietnam).

In brief, Lao film-makers are on the rise, however the market size is still the same. The lack of theaters is the main difficulty for the industry, Lao-ITECC cinema in Vientiane screens in 35mm format and DVD format, one theater in Pakse but screens only 35mm format, and another small standalone cinema in Savanhnakhet. The chance for film makers to make money is slim, and so far we have to rely on foreign funding. LNWC productions is going to experiment with DVD and online market in 2013, hopefully, we will be able to earn back budget and continue making movies.

What makes it popular is the entertainment value and production value. We need to have variety of movies, one with expression (art), one with message (commercial-art) and one for mass (mainstream/commercial film).

It will slowly grow, compared to our neighborhood countries (Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and Burma) we are so far behind in the movie industry. The challenges is a small market and the authority controls it.

Shadow play, also known as shadow puppetry, is an ancient form of storytelling and entertainment that uses flat articulated cut-out figures which are held between a source of light and a translucent screen or scrim. The cut-out shapes of the puppets sometimes include translucent color or other types of detailing. Shadow Puppetry is an ancient tradition with a long history in Southeast Asia. In Southern Laos, the Champasak Shadow Puppet Theatre has revived this long-forgotten cultural tradition and with a group of 14 people including artists, musicians, vocalists, comedians, and puppeteers, presents a choice of two intriguing shows.

Public transportation leaving from Pakse to Champasak is available from the KM 2 and KM 8 bus terminals from 08:00 to 16:00. To allow for more flexibility in your travel plans, you may consider hiring a tuk tuk to take you directly there, or rent a motorbike in Pakse and ride there yourself.

South of Kong Island (the largest in Laos) are the 4000 Islands, or Si Phan Don in Lao. This area of extraordinary beauty is known for its fine food (especially fish dishes), distinct temple architecture, and warm hospitality. On Don Det and Don Khone, remnants of an early 20th century railway and steamship port can be visited. At Hang Khone village or at the Laos-Cambodia border, local boats can be hired to observe the endangered freshwater dolphins that inhabit this section of the Mekong.

Accessible from the tiny Don Lai Island, which is just 1 km from Don Khone, Som Pha Mit Waterfall is another amazing natural site to visit. Here, you can relax, enjoy the scenery, watch people fish, and enjoy freshly caught Mekong fish. This waterfall is named after a Sacred Buddha image (Pha), which was dropped in the water and never to be found again by the first King of Laos, Chao Fa Ngum, who was travelling through the region by boat.

Many people have erroneously called it Li Phi, which actually refers to the entire 20 km East-West stretch of waterfalls and rapids of Si Phan Don (including both Khone Pha Pheng and Li Phi). The name Li Phi was given to the area because it acts like a giant fish trap (Li) and will kill any of those who dare to navigate it (Phi means ghost or dead person). As suggested by the name, it is important to watch your step and be cautious around the waterfall.

Don Khong is the largest and Northern-most of the 4000 Islands. It is also the capital of Khong District and is the logical base for trips to the rest of the islands. The island boasts 99 mountain tops, a rich heritage of temples (15 in total) and French colonial buildings. It is 24 km long and 8 Km wide and has 19 villages, many of which derive their livelihood from fishing. The main market in Ban Kang Don is a great place to visit in the early morning to see the many varieties of fresh mekong fish available.

Don Det and Don Khone are the next most popular islands, after Don Khong. Both islands offer relaxing bungalow accommodation and an island pace of life. From Don Det, rafting and kayaking trips can also be arranged that take you into the heart of the 4000 Islands.

Don Khone is joined with Don Det by a historic railway bridge built by the French in 1910. Next to the bridge sits an old locomotive, one of the last remnants of the railway. In addition, visitors can walk or ride bikes to Don Lai Island to see the Li Phi Waterfall or take a trip to see freshwater dolphins from the tip of Don Khone.

To get to Don Det or Don Khone from Pakse, take Route.13 South for about 141 km and turn right onto a dirt road at the sign pointing to Nakasang (the end ofthe road). From the pier, you can take a boat to Don Det, which is about 15 minutes away. From the pier at Don Det, you can take a shuttle bus to Don Khone Island - it's a 25 minutes ride.

The Ta Ong Trail is one of the more remote and exciting experiences in Xe Pian. Camping is also gaining popularity in Xe Pian, with trails to take you deep into the jungle far away from the village and is best for those who would like to experience old grown forests and signs of wildlife. However, those who choose either programs should be in good condition and ready for adventure, as the area is wild and remote. A local guide is required on the Ta Ong Trail and for camping tours.

Atop Phou Asa Mountain and above Kiet Ngong Village stands an ancient and magnificent stone structure called Vat Phou Asa, which is believed to be a temple. Surrounding it are distinctive and unique columns made of plate-like rocks, which stand proudly as if they were guarding the temple. The summit of Phou Asa opens out to provide a stunning view over large areas of the southern part of Laos.

The forests of Xe Pian and Dong Hua Sao National Protected Areas (NPA) appear to stretch out endlessly from the Kiet Ngong wetland. To the north is the Bolaven Plateau, and on a clear day waterfalls can be seen cascading from it. Ahead to the east is the Xe Kong floodplain in Attapeu, and lining the horizon is the Annamite Mountains on the Vietnamese border. At the top of the outcrop is a ring of stone pillars. Legends abound, but it is uncertain if the structure was built for religious or military reasons.

Phou Asa can be reached by a short walk with a local guide or elephant ride along a forest trail from the village. Elephant-back trips can also be arranged to other places such as nearby forests and wetlands. Village guides are available to take visitors on half or full-day walks to Phou Asa and its surroundings, and can help interpret the many medicinal plants and non-timber forest products you can see along the way. The 7km long eco-trail begin at the foot of Phou Asa and offers 3 to 4 hours of steady walking through tall semi-evergreen forest.

There is also an extensive wetland near Kiet Ngong village, which is good for bird-watching and day hikes. During the dry season, there is a trail around the wetland to Don Lai Island, which takes about two hours if walked slowly. Many waterbirds can be seen, so bring a pair of binoculars. On the way, you will pass the Giant Rock (Hin Huoa Yak in Lao), a sacred place with a superb view. The trail continues to Phapho Village, but you will probably want to return the way you came. Donlai Island can also be reached by canoe. Your boatman will take you slowly around the edge of the wetland, where a passage through the thick mats of floating vegetation is kept open by boats and water buffaloes. A canoe trip is recommended, as it offers a closer look at the birds and local fishing techniques than a walk around the wetland.

There are generally three choices for accommodation in Kiet Ngong: (i) Sleeping huts operated by the village, which sleep two and overlook the wetland; (ii) Home-stay with local families; and (iii) the King Fisher Eco-lodge, located just 1km outside the village, which offers luxury bungalows overlooking the wet- land.

For the best view of Pakse, hike up Salao Hill and catch the Phu Salao, which is part of the Buddhist temple complex - there are multiple smaller golden Buddha statues along the way. You can either take the stairs (though some are in poor condition) and make the 4km trek up, or get a tuk tuk to wind up the hill via the concrete road.

Also known as the Don Det-Don Khon railway, the 7km bridge was built by the Mekong Exploration Commission. Historically, it was built because the French colonial administration wanted to use the Mekong river to connect the different parts of its Indochinese territory. The railway is no longer functional, but the bridge remains practical - locals frequently traverse the region on it.

Wat Tomo is part of the Wat Phu complex of temples, but located around two kilometres away from the main temple grounds. It is an ancient Khmer Temple that pre-dates Angkor Wat. This two tier temple is hidden in the jungle that lines the Mekong, shaded by tall trees. Within the temple you will find a number of structures in various states of disrepair and a number of Khmer religious sculptures depicting Hindu Gods. Visitors to Wat Tomo will find it mostly abandoned and can explore the moss covered ruins at their leisure.

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