The Power Of Being Broke Pdf

[Dallas Querry]

Heythere. This is the exact relay I'm using. And my setup for it is shown below. The code is irrelevant since it works on the arduino side and my question is related to a possible broken/welded conneciton in the relay.

It worked fine for a time but after about 10-15 mins, it started to work in an always ON state. the LED's on relay showed correctly according to the code, I also could hear the tick when the digital pin triggered the relay too. I'm not so new to electronics but certainly not an expert. It seems to me that the trigger works properly but something might have welded/melted inside so that the electricity always flows through.

Bear in mind that I tried to disconnect arduino and 5V power completely from the relay and it still worked. The power relayed through it like there's no sort of control. I am of course using the NC (Normally Closed) way but no go. Also, switching over to NO way seems to stop the flow of electricity but then, the switch does not do anything.

When nothing makes sense, I'm almost sure that there's something awfully wrong

The relay is fairly cheap, I ordered new ones with spares too but still would like to know if I'm not aware of something.

Programmatically impossible Besides, the motor makes this weird buzzing sound when I tried to energize two directions simultaneously just for a brief moment to see how things go with the motor I have since it's not a very common type.

flamacore:

Programmatically impossible Besides, the motor makes this weird buzzing sound when I tried to energize two directions simultaneously just for a brief moment to see how things go with the motor I have since it's not a very common type.

Hmm ok I think something is wrong here then. The motor connections are connected in NC ways which should read "Normally Closed", thus there should be no electricity. Am I wrong here? Would you please guide me a little further?

I think I could not describe the issue correctly. My problem is, whichever pin (NC or NO) I connect motor in, the relay makes the click sound, the green led turns on but the power does not flow through. As it's like the green led and click has no effect whatsoever.

I tried with only one direction of the motor and the result is the same. I connect the power source to the common pin of the relay, direciton to the NC pin, it works ALWAYS ON regardless of the state of the green LED or click sound.

I know if you had a volt meter you would have told us the voltage at the motor when you tried it. However, have you tried connecting the power directly to the motor to see if it works in both directions?

Paul_KD7HB:

I know if you had a volt meter you would have told us the voltage at the motor when you tried it. However, have you tried connecting the power directly to the motor to see if it works in both directions?

I tried with both directions directly and it works yes And with 400ms, It worked before for 10-15 mins as I stated in my original post so I'm assuming it's enough but I tried with another basic code which has 3000ms delay, still not working. I'm completely sure that it's not about the code or the digital pin triggering. It all works fine, just does not affect the relay at all.

flamacore:

I tried with both directions directly and it works yes And with 400ms, It worked before for 10-15 mins as I stated in my original post so I'm assuming it's enough but I tried with another basic code which has 3000ms delay, still not working. I'm completely sure that it's not about the code or the digital pin triggering. It all works fine, just does not affect the relay at all.

Well, my first Arduino project was a Peltier cooler/heater using relays to turn the 12 volts on/off and to switch the direction of the current, much as you have done. I had relay problems and replaced relays on the little boards more than once.

I carefully dissected the relays and one had contacts welded together. One had some build up of insulating material on the contacts. No clue where that came from. They are really, really cheap! Just because they have ratings printed on the box, doesn't mean much.

Will try to draw when I get home but the problem is definitely not the motor, not the code, not the 220v power usage. I have correct information from the company that owns the motor, it definitely uses 220V wall source directly while drawing 0.7 amps at max; also tested with a multimeter.

I've tested if the motor works with direct connection, tested if the code works properly with LEDs, tested with and without external 5V supply to the relay module, tested literally every single NC-NO-C connection option possible.

The project is controlling a roller blind via a swipe gesture using ultrasonic sensors. The code works fine. I can't stress that enough I'm an established game designer/programmer with 6 years of work behind me. I know when my code works or not Also, I stated before that I've tested it with just a simple on-off code with 3 seconds delay (3000ms). No, the motor does not need any time to start working or stop working. I really can't stress that enought that the code and the motor are OK.

Now, thanks for the information again; I did not measure the contact resistance of the relays. I've never done that, can you guide me on what should I see when I switch my multimeter to resistor mode when testing those contacts?

Looks like it as I've done some research to support that idea What would you suggest for protection might I ask? Is it something I can shield my relays from? I feel like a transistor or a resistor should be able to provide some form of protection but I'm heavily new to 220v handling so...

When I tried to add the armor piece to a suit I get a notification telling me I can't add armor to a frame if it is broken, so how am I suppose to repair them if they are not part of a suit that can be walked over to a power armor repair station as outlined in this question?

Yes it is possible. The broken armor pieces have to be in your inventory, then you need to go to a power armor station (while not wearing the power armor) and go to craft mode (by pressing A on Xbox One, X on PS4, and E on PC)

Then you can see all the pieces you have in your inventory and you should be able to repair them by pressing Y / Triangle / T, no matter if they're completely or partially damaged.

When you let a companion wear Power Armor, it is possible that they'll automatically unequip broken pieces. When you see that, you'll need to trade with your companion to get the piece from their inventory into yours, so you can repair it.

Power armor components usually require 2 pieces of steel each. These can be in your inventory or in your workshop inventory. Steel can be found in junk items, ball peen hammers, wrenches, etc, or by scrapping signs, guard rails, lamp posts, etc from the workshop interface.If you don't have enough steel the power armor rack won't repair them.

I was working a few weeks back on my Jetson Nano, using the micro USB port for power supply. The adapter for the power supply had 5V, 2A specifications and so Jetson Nano worked without any issue. I took a break for around 2 weeks where I did not operate my board at all and came back to see that suddenly the same power supply is not able to power up my board.

I checked the usual suspects. Firstly, there is no jumper present on the J48 pin. Next, I tried replacing my power adapter with a different one with the same capacity, but to no avail, which means the issue is not in the adapter itself. If the power supply is not enough for Nano, even then it should at least power up and show the green light on the board right? Also, nothing has changed in the last 2 weeks and so the same power supply should work right?

I am currently ordering a jumper and a 5V, 4A barrel power supply in order to see if the alternate power supply option can work. Mainly, I want to understand what could have gone wrong to cause this? Is it possible that somehow the micro USB power circuit got broken, but it has not affected the board itself and there is some hope if I switch to a different form of power supply, or it must be some internal error in the board itself and changing the power supply is not really going to matter? Also, since the board is not even powering up, what exactly can I do to further investigate this?

Even if something simple like the local temperature changes it is possible the power supply is no longer in spec. The barrel connector is a much better way to power the system anyway since it is able to handle higher current (powering a USB2 device from a host has specified limits, the barrel connector does not have those limits).

Sometimes it is not about the total power delivery, but instead about the quality of regulation right at the moment of powering on. Very high current availability might still fail unless the voltage remains absolutely stable right at the moment of power up. Even marginal supplies may work if they have a high value capacitor right at the connector to the Nano.

While inspecting the board, I noticed that two pins on the J41 extension are slightly bent. Pin number 17(3V3) and 19. Could this be a reason for my board not working? What exactly is the function of those 2 pins?

Were they shorted together? As you mentioned, pin 17 is 3.3V. Pin 19 is an SPI pin. I doubt a short would cause a hardware failure, but it could. If the two were not shorted, then the bent pin would do no harm. You can always use a meter and see if pin 17 is still 3.3V to at least test that.

I have no way to help you debug anything specific since it is apparently a hardware issue. However, in a very large majority of cases where something like this is wrong, then it is a carrier board hardware error, and the module would be fine. In theory you could just move the module to a new carrier board if that is the issue. You cannot separately purchase the dev kit carrier board, but you could still interchange them if you have two dev kits.

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