Nautilus Battery Charger

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Giordano Thibault

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Aug 5, 2024, 2:27:00 PM8/5/24

to trogemdefne

Hiall newbie on this forum from the UK anyone know which battery charger fits the Nautilus 2ba and what is the full electric specification for this voltage etc? just got a very nice 2ba machine near mint condition any info would be good thanks.

Hi Dave, Coincidentally I have a Nautilus DMC llBa on US eBay right now, also in pristine shape. It came with a battery charger that I never used; just took out the batteries and re-charged them. It's a Calrad Ac Adaptor Model 45-767; Input 120 VAC, 60 Hz, 16W, Output 24 VDC, 400ma. The detector came from a prominent Dankowski Forum member, so the adaptor, if you can find one, should be right-on.

Your charger requires a 120 V AC electrical wall outlet receptacle installed according to local codes and ordinances.USING AN EXTENSION CORD

An extension cord should not be used unless absolutely necessary. Use of an improper extension cord could result in a risk of fire and electric shock. If an extension cord must be used, make sure:

FOLLOW THESE STEPS WHEN BATTERY IS OUTSIDE VEHICLE.

WARNING: A SPARK NEAR THE BATTERY MAY CAUSE A BATTERY EXPLOSION. TO REDUCE THE RISK OF A SPARK NEAR THE BATTERY:

If a lead-acid battery is left sitting in a low state of charge, or is deeply discharged, or is never given the opportunity to fully charge, it can suffer capacity loss due to sulphation and/or stratification. Such a battery can appear to have a normal open circuit voltage and yet it will have a noticeable drop in performance. Using Reconditioning mode may help to reverse the affects of sulphation and stratification, restoring lost battery capacity.

To maximize battery life and performance, Recondition your battery once per year or after deep discharges. For best results, take the battery through a normal full charge cycle before using this mode. A Reconditioning charge can take up to 4 hours to complete.CAUTION: USE THIS MODE WITH CARE. RECONDITIONING USES A HIGH CHARGING VOLTAGE AND MAY CAUSE WATER LOSS IN THE BATTERY. IT IS BEST SUITED FOR WET (FLOODED) BATTERIES WITH REMOVABLE VENT CAPS WHICH ALLOWS FOR WATER LEVELS TO BE TOPPED UP. RECONDITIONING IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR AGM OR GEL BATTERIES. TO MINIMUM RISK OF HIGH VOLTAGE TO SENSITIVE ELECTRONICS, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FROM THE VEHICLE (OR ANY OTHER EQUIPMENT) WHEN USING THIS MODE.

STAGE 1 DESULPHATION*

Pulses of voltage and current help recover sulphated or deeply discharged batteries.

STAGE 2 SOFT START*

Gently introduces current to condition deeply discharged batteries and prevent overheating that could damage the battery.

STAGE 3 BULK

Charging with maximum current to bring the battery to about 80% capacity.

STAGE 4 ABSORPTION

Charging with constant voltage while reducing current to safely bring the battery to 100% capacity. This stage is key to maximizing battery performance and battery life.

STAGE 5 ANALYZE

Tests if battery is holding charge.

STAGE 6 MAINTENANCE

Monitors battery voltage and provides top-up charging when necessary to keep battery fully charged.

* If necessary

Well I had the battery replaced early February and yesterday morning I get into the car and its dead. I had to hook up a 75A start charger and left it on for about 5 minutes and then the car just started up normally. Was heading out on a work trip, so I stopped by the dealership and have another appointment Friday to get it looked at. Car started up just fine today, so who knows what is going on.

Yes, have had out 2016 MKX in 3-4 times now, first week out of town had to jump several times, dealer replaced battery. Occurred again, months latter, replaced battery... still could not find problem, at dealer again, cant find problem wants to blame battery. Lincoln app tracked low voltage several times but did not send notice till dead. Will not be able to trust this car, wife's car now. Carry jumper battery for backup.. less than 8000 miles...

I have read all these posts and everyone seems to want to blame the battery, I also drive a diesel and pull a 5th wheel...and no problems, replaced batteries at 5 years and yes batteries need tending. But three batteries in less than two years and 8000 miles in a mild climate and garaged vehicle... it is a problem with the cars electrical system.. and my next step is the California lemon law if it is not fixed this time or resolved other wise. This is my first Lincoln, and already starting to miss the Edge. I thought my wife deserved a little more....sure more problems.

Typical problems that cause this are the BCM (body control module), brake pedal sensor/brake shift interlock, park sensor (shouldn't apply to push button transmissions). You need a good dealer that is willing to troubleshoot this type of problem.

Oct 8 2018 Drove to Lincoln dealer and told him story above.

Oct 9 2018 5PM Service Provider called and said that couldn't find any issues over night and put battery on charger and to come pick it up at noon on Oct 10.

I could be wrong, but I think that WiFi is only on when the car is either in on (or run) or accessory. I'm sure others will chime in here, but my guess is the old battery failed, replaced with a new one and you didn't drive it far enough to give the new one a full charge. A new battery needs to be driven hard at least 1/2 hour or more to fully charge.

FWIW Mine auto-updated to the newest version of Sync over the course of about a month or so. I only drive the car once or twice a week and probably about half an hour at a time and have not experienced any hard starting or other evidence of battery weakness.

My OEM battery failed in April 2016. Now the replacement has also failed. So it had a life of thirty months. Vehicle was going in for six month service tomorrow. Now they get to check the charging system and replace the battery.

After following this topic dating to Rick's April 2016 opening post, it appears that two causative factors stand out: (1) Early MKX production model batteries (including some OEM replacements) may have been deficient from the suppliers, and (2) there is a relationship between failed batteries and number of installed vehicle options/packages. Perhaps the OEM batteries (and replacements) were under-engineered (or spec'ed) for the demands placed on them. This is no great 'voila' moment exclusive to Lincoln, other manufacturers have faced the same issues as electronic fitments have multiplied with each model being introduced.

Not a big problem in a well functing battery, taking only a few minutes of driving. But if its cold, or the battery's voltage is low due to its parasitic draw, or high internal resistance, it can take a half hour to fully recharge.

Short trips or city driving at low rpms may not provide sufficient time to fully recharge the charge a battery loses after cranking. A battery that is chronicly left undercharged never reabsorbs the led sulphate crystals and leads to early battery failure.

I haven't driven a drivetrain combo of the new 3.5 EB and 10-speed tranny, but my imagination runs wild thinking about it. However, even the MKX's 2.7L and 6-speed combo spooks me on occasion when I'm pulling a mountain grade in high gear at nearly idle 1100-1200 RPMs. My concern? LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) under high load & low RPM conditions with the 2.7L direct injection...I'll actually force a downshift to ease any apprehensions albeit LSPI appears to be a larger threat with small displacement modded inline four-jug GDI turbo engines. It's another reason to favor the dual injection systems of the new 3.5EB and other similar engines.

Good point. This is one reason why (combined with the ability to eliminate turbo lag and slightly improve gas mileage) there is such a surge in new cars with mild hybrid systems. I hope all Aviators will have one (even if not the plug-in model) and that Lincoln makes them standard in future ICE vehicle launches. See for instance: -you-need-to-know-about-the-upcoming-48-volt-1790364465

There is virtually zero turbo lag on Ford's ecoboost engines, at least in my experience with both the 2.0L and 3.5L. Any delays are due to the ETC or the tranny. The instant torque of the electric motor is definitely an advantage but only in a regular hybrid, not a mild hybrid (that's usually used to describe auto stop/start).