3mm Parting Tool
Tarja Rabito
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Use this Removal Tool is specifically designed to detach LiteTouch and Super Flangeless Ferrules from tubing. Easy to use, find the correct tool blade slot and slide the tool between the lock ring and ferrule body. Twist slightly and the ring will pop off releasing the ferrule.Looking for a CAD file for this product? Request a CAD now!
Sharpening this tool can be a real pain! Sure, it's a great tool when parting-off deeply into the wood as the diamond shape helps to reduce friction. But, that same shape makes sharpening difficult.
Sometimes when you put rough wood on the lathe your ends are not square. They can be on an angle or just plain uneven. Using the parting tool to clean up the ends of your spindle helps keep your spindle balanced, your other cuts smooth, and a sharp or unexpected edge away from your fingers.
A multi-jawed chuck can grip your spindle turning without the tail stock for support. For safety reasons use the tail stock if you can. Once you completed as much of the project with the support of the tail stock then you can remove it. This leaves the tail stock end of your turning unsupported. If this is a small spindle and not too long you can then take a skew chisel and finish off that end of your project. The advantage is that you can then use your parting tool to part the turning project completely off of the lathe at the head stock end. This makes finishing the turning much easier. You only have one end to sand and wax with no extra nub on the end to deal with.
When turning a bowl on the lathe and holding it by a tenon in a multi-jawed chuck the parting tool can be used to part the bowl from the lathe. Turn the outside of the bowl to your desired shape. Hollow the interior of the bowl and finish both sides of the bowl. When you are ready to separate the bowl off of the lathe take your parting tool and part it off. To make the bottom of the bowl flat, even with some wood movement, angle your parting tool towards the center of your bowl. Not a lot, you are not turning another bowl. Just a slight angle will give you a concave bottom that will allow your turning to rest steady on a table. Another place the parting tool helps is with making shawl rings or jar lids on your lathe. In turning a Mason jar lid you have to part off each lid. A large blank on a face plate can give you several lids at one time. To prevent burning make sure that you cut a space that is slightly larger than your parting tool.
A parting tool is one of the easier turning tools to use. As you saw above you can use it in a variety of ways. If you are just starting out turning wood have a look at my Woodturning Blueprint book. It introduces the tools you need to turn and suggests seven progressive projects to help you build your turning skills. There are also business information included for each project. Once the turning bug has bit you will have more products than you know what to do with. Turn to the Woodturning Blueprint for some business advice to get you started in the right direction. I love wood turning and sharing with you. Thank you for letting me join you on your woodturning journey. Have fun and remember to always turn safely.
Learn to use 5 different wood turning tools, with confidence, while you turn 7 projects, building your wood turning skills sequentially. Includes tips and ideas for marketing your wood turning, when you are ready to move forward.
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Mike I have the metal one (I think it's Sorby's). I find that calipers are more accurate though. Quicker too. I like to stop the lathe and do a final check with my dial calipers for more precise fittings. I like to use a 3/8" beading-parting tool for making my tenons and I put a burr on it with a burnisher ... like you would on a card scraper. It cuts a little slower that way but doesn't catch and gives a quite smooth tenon. The finer bites that it takes this way allow a more accurate sizing. I like to turn the tenons just a tad oversize (if they are to be glued in) and then I will take a pair of channellocks and squeeze them down to size. When I glue them up they expand like a biscuit and never come loose.
I too own the sorby gate guage but never use it .I have found that in a production situation it is cumbersome.I use outside calipers with the tips rounded in one hand and parting tool in the other.Then a skew, final measurement with vernier.Never stopping the lathe.For most spindle turning I do not stop the lathe to mount or remove the blank unless it is too large diameter to hold safely.
I'm turning this pin from bar and will be parting it on the left. Prior to parting I want the same tool to make the chamfer on that end but I'm having trouble getting a path to create. I've tried both Turn and Groove ops without any luck. Is there a way to do this?
Thanks for the sample file. I tried changing some settings to match your part and was able to get a tool path but it doesn't have the tool actually going into the part. Could you check it out? I attached it.
Your Backside Stock Offset (basically how far past the back of the part) was too short for the width of your tool, so you got the lead-in but no cutting. Here it is with the Backside Stock Offset set at .2" (and I turned off Roughing Clearing Passes to get a cleaner path):
This narrow Robert Sorby Nick Cook Parting Tool is a favorite of Nick Cook when he needs to make narrow controlled cuts such as the grooves on honey dippers. The fluted cutting edge along the top bevel allows the points to penetrate and shear the wood fibers before the material is removed, producing a clean cut with a narrow kerf. The 1" tall blade reduces flexing so it can be used on boxes or other projects where fine control and a clean cut is required.
Robert Sorby M2 high-speed steel turning tools have long been a popular line of woodturning tools. Still made in-house in Sheffield, England, their special attention to heat treating, material quality, and overall craftsmanship have made them one of the top choices in woodturning tools.
I'm just getting into doing some wood turning with my Shopsmith, and inherited a few random chisels from one of my mentors. Among the set was a really wide parting tool that is just not working for some of the items that I would like to make - most notably, some tree ornaments for the holidays.
I looked into buying one of the smaller parting chisels/knives, but the decent ones are more than I want to spend. I thought it would be just as easy (and much quicker) than waiting for a cheap one to ship - plus I absolutely love reusing items for different purposes than they were intended! Why buy something when you can make it just as well out of reused materials for far cheaper? I also find it rewarding as I'm learning a new skill to make some of the tools to support that endeavor.
I'll walk you through how to make a parting tool for wood turning using nothing but an old circular saw blade, some wood for the handle, and some round metal stock for the pins. My total cost on this project was about 50 cents, and this is really easy to do if you have some scraps and a basic set of hand and power tools!
First you will need to scare up an old circular saw blade - it is important to use this material rather than any old piece of scrap steel. Why, do you ask? Well, saw blades are made from high-speed steel (HSS), which is specifically meant to be used in tools for wood turning, cutting, etc. If you use a very soft, mild steel like from a bed frame it might bend easily or heat up too much. An old saw blade is easy to find, for sure - check garage sales.
It can't be too old as I hear older blades aren't made of HSS - often they are labeled as such, if the label hasn't worn off. Pick one with a thickness (kerf) that matches what you want for your parting tool - mine was pretty thin, like 1/16", which is perfect for what I wanted to accomplish.
I'm lucky to have a home supplies reuse center - Home Resource - that I frequent a lot. The blade and black walnut hardwood scrap came from there with a bunch of other stuff so I'm estimating my total cost at around 50 cents for these items. I tore apart an old printer years ago and the rollers had nice stainless steel rods in them so I kept those - it was perfect to use as the pins for this knife. Brass rod from the hardware store is not terribly expensive, I've used this for other knife handle pins before and it's a good substitute.
I don't have one of these tools and have never used one. So I googled images of what I might buy and came across this one - seemed easy enough to draw. I just drew two parallel lines about an inch apart with a straight edge and then eyeballed the shape of the front.
I clamped the blade securely to my bench - you are going to be using an angle grinder on a sharp object with pointy teeth, use safety glasses, gloves and ear protection and triple check it is clamped! Use good judgement here, please - if things are wobbling or not acting right, stop and assess before hurting yourself.
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