I decided to improve my Aluminatus. I finally got it all back together last night.

[John Stevenson]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PSEejv7VGA

List of modifications: All parts were printed in ABS. Modified stronger X ends with non floating screw connections. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275... The Z motors have been replaced with motors that have integrated lead screws. This gets rid of all the coupler problems and should resolve Z banding etc. This also simplifies the build and provides even more Z build area. 17HS6002-500N84 TR8*4 500MM Leadscrew 60MM Nema17 Stepper Motor robotdigg.com The X limit switch on these only used one mounting hole and it would move around if you pushed on it. I could not find a switch with the proper holes so I dremeled out the holes into slots on the switch and then shrink wrapped the bolt threads so they could not accidentally short to the plate that passes through the plastic in the switch. The extruder was reprinted with a modified version that also includes a support for the filament tube. https://github.com/Ccecil/Aluminatus-... The Z rods where replaced with hardened steel ones. A felt pad is put on each end to reduce transfer of noise. PDTech 12mm dia X 520mm hardened steel linear bearing rod, chrome, custom cut (eBay: pd-tech) The Z bearings were rearranged so there is one constraining bearing on each side. The new X ends also space them farther apart. The Extruder wiring was lengthened 34". The X motor and X limit switch wiring was lengthened 16". The X wiring was all installed into cable chains for a clean look and to keep the wiring from hitting the parts etc. The original wiring would not even clear a full size print if you ever tried one. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:276... The bed has been improved with a center adjustable mount under the glass. This will let you adjust out a bow if your glass has one or develops one. It can also just provide center support for a good flat glass. I have purchased a new glass from Lulzbot, but still plan to use this one for a while. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274... The bed corners were modified with adjustable edge stops, adjustable height, and clamps that hold the glass down. The clamps are necessary if you use any insulation under the heat spreader to keep it from holding the glass up and also they are a necessity if you want to use the center support to push a bow out of the glass for a better print surface. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:101807 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274... A support for the bed heater wiring has been added. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:96431 The Y carriage spacers have been milled on both sides. They did not come flat originally. A holder for the LCD and a knob have been printed. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:101310 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:57490 An IKEA LED light with a custom mount has been added. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:109708 A custom top mount spool holder has been added. This is going to be changed some in the future. The original design was to accommodate any size spool available at the time, but it seems the spool size used is always going to be about the same. This assembly can be simplified and the size reduced. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:109696 Extrusion end covers have been added. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274... Some of the wiring in the base has been cleaned up a little and slightly rerouted. The printed upper Z rod mounts have been replaced with aluminum ones. SHF12 The Marlin firmware has been updated to the latest version with the needed mods for the upgrades.

[hellphish]

Great work! Thanks for the write-up, I need to do a few of these mods.

On Tue, Feb 6, 2018, 8:33 AM John Stevenson <jev...@gmail.com> wrote:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PSEejv7VGA

List of modifications: All parts were printed in ABS. Modified stronger X ends with non floating screw connections. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:275... The Z motors have been replaced with motors that have integrated lead screws. This gets rid of all the coupler problems and should resolve Z banding etc. This also simplifies the build and provides even more Z build area. 17HS6002-500N84 TR8*4 500MM Leadscrew 60MM Nema17 Stepper Motor robotdigg.com The X limit switch on these only used one mounting hole and it would move around if you pushed on it. I could not find a switch with the proper holes so I dremeled out the holes into slots on the switch and then shrink wrapped the bolt threads so they could not accidentally short to the plate that passes through the plastic in the switch. The extruder was reprinted with a modified version that also includes a support for the filament tube. https://github.com/Ccecil/Aluminatus-... The Z rods where replaced with hardened steel ones. A felt pad is put on each end to reduce transfer of noise. PDTech 12mm dia X 520mm hardened steel linear bearing rod, chrome, custom cut (eBay: pd-tech) The Z bearings were rearranged so there is one constraining bearing on each side. The new X ends also space them farther apart. The Extruder wiring was lengthened 34". The X motor and X limit switch wiring was lengthened 16". The X wiring was all installed into cable chains for a clean look and to keep the wiring from hitting the parts etc. The original wiring would not even clear a full size print if you ever tried one. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:276... The bed has been improved with a center adjustable mount under the glass. This will let you adjust out a bow if your glass has one or develops one. It can also just provide center support for a good flat glass. I have purchased a new glass from Lulzbot, but still plan to use this one for a while. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274... The bed corners were modified with adjustable edge stops, adjustable height, and clamps that hold the glass down. The clamps are necessary if you use any insulation under the heat spreader to keep it from holding the glass up and also they are a necessity if you want to use the center support to push a bow out of the glass for a better print surface. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:101807 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274... A support for the bed heater wiring has been added. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:96431 The Y carriage spacers have been milled on both sides. They did not come flat originally. A holder for the LCD and a knob have been printed. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:101310 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:57490 An IKEA LED light with a custom mount has been added. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:109708 A custom top mount spool holder has been added. This is going to be changed some in the future. The original design was to accommodate any size spool available at the time, but it seems the spool size used is always going to be about the same. This assembly can be simplified and the size reduced. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:109696 Extrusion end covers have been added. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274... Some of the wiring in the base has been cleaned up a little and slightly rerouted. The printed upper Z rod mounts have been replaced with aluminum ones. SHF12 The Marlin firmware has been updated to the latest version with the needed mods for the upgrades.

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[djam]

Hi John,

Thanks for posting the list of updates, I'm going to use some of them to upgrade my unit. I might even
finally upgrade the psu to 34 volts. The new PSU has been sitting here for years.

Cheers,
Darren

[Jon Bondy]

You did not mention moving the electronics to a more convenient location.  Did you consider this?

Jon