Nice Apollo 636 Control Board Manual

[Jennifer Curtis]

Wiringto it is unclear in the picture, but may also be cut on at least one side, making it "also disconnected" - function of the point it's connected to on the control board is not documented in any of the easily found web-pages trying to sell you one that I've looked at so far (no user manual, installers manual, or input/output diagram for the board found. That documentation may exist, I just haven't found it if it does.)

C) Push test button to activate gate. If gate starts opening, push button twice to stop and reversegate. Once gate starts closing, push the test button to stop the gate within 3" of the desired close position.Disconnect battery.

Switch #1 on the set of red and white switches activates the automatic close when placed in the"on" position. Apollo slide gate operators are set at the factory for a left-handed closure (if you arestanding from inside the property facing out, the gate closes to the left).

1) Determine a suitable mounting location for the solar panel. The solar panel is shipped with10 feet of cable. Additional cable is available if required. The panel should aim south in the northern hemisphereand north in the southern hemisphere. There should be no obstructions (trees, buildings etc.) that would limitthe amount of sunlight that hits the surface of the solar panel.

4) Feed the cable through the hole with a grommet on the side of the control box and connectto battery (red-positive, black-negative). You may need to cut the connection off and re-splice once inside thecontrol box.

The EMERGENCY BYPASS CONNECTOR is for use in situations when the control board is not operating correctly.Unplug the 8 pin white connector from the Master or Slave input and plug into the Emergency Bypass Connector. Whenthe gate is open enough to get in or out, remove the plug. If the plug is not removed, the motor will stall andblow fuse F1.

The model 7000 incorporates a mechanical release that is the preferred method of operating the gate manually.

SYMPTOM: Gate opens OK but after closing, opens back up.

1. Automatic reverse sensitivity is set too sensitive. Readjust - CAUTION: Automatic reverse sensitivity shouldbe set sensitive enough to avoid injury.

2. Too much closing pressure on gate. Readjust magnets on chain.

3. Check that battery voltage is over 12.5 VDC when closing gate.

4. Replace gate control board.

SYMPTOM: Gate doesn't move at all.

1. Check battery connections and polarity. Battery voltage should read above 12.5 VDC.

2. Be sure wiring harness is securely seated in the gate control board.

3. Replace gate control board.

4. Plug the wiring harness into the EMERGENCY BY-PASS connector on the control board. Unplug connector before gategoes open too far to avoid blowing the fuse.

SYMPTOM: Gate moves only a few feet, then stops.

1. Check battery voltage (should read 12.5 VDC of higher).

2. Check for gate binding or obstruction.

3. Check for damage to gate or rollers. Disconnect chain and manually roll gate to verify free movement.

4. Replace gate control board.

5. Unplug push button from control board (possible bad push button).

SYMPTOM: Gate will open using push button control board but not with transmitter.

1. Check that the code switches inside the transmitter match the code switches in the receiver.

2. Make sure the LED on the transmitter lights when activated. If not, check the battery.

3. Hold the transmitter within 3 inches of the receiver and try to activate. If gate activates, proceed to thenext section.

SYMPTOM: Transmitter works, but not very far away.

Note: Transmission distances will vary according to terrain, obstructions, and lectrica/ interference. Windowtinting on automotive windshields will also cut "own on the range. The normal range inside of a vehicle is50-100 feet while 100-200 feet may be obtained outside the vehicle.

1. Inspect the antenna. Be sure that the center conductor is penetrating the female connector on the control box.

2. If there is very much metallic material between the antenna and the attempted transmission area, raise the heightof the antenna using a #244 antenna extension kit.

SYMPTOM: Gate randomly opens, closes, and stops for no reason.

1. Check all transmitters, wireless keypads, etc. for a stuck push button.

2. Check the code switch on the transmitter and receiver to be sure all the switches are not in the same position.

3. Disconnect all other devices to see if the problem goes away.

4. Unplug push button from control board (possible bad push button).

I have also been searching for any feedback regarding these heat pumps with hardly any luck. After enough digging I found they are built in Poland with credible name parts such as Panasonic, Emerson, and Siemens. With that I went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered a 5 ton unit, 3 ton fan coil, and heat pump station for my new shop I built. I plan to use it for radiant floor heat embedded in slab. Ordered it in early October and am told it arrived in US last week and should be delivered this week. So far customer support has been OK. They have always got back to me but sometimes I need to reach out a few times, email + phone call, ect. I'm not thrilled that they have not been able to provide me details regarding the heat pump station accessory, stating they did not receive it from manufacturer yet. All in all so far I'm just really hopeful this thing shows up and works out alright. I have a bit of electrical and plumbing background so I'm planning to install myself. I will let you know what happens!

Scruffinator,

Has your Apollo 5 ton arrived yet? I like the price vs. the very few other air to water systems available in the US. I would be very interested in pictures of the inside of the HP, or the pump station. I emailed asking for details of what's in the pump station, but no info yet.

Thanks, Dale

I believe that air-to-water will break out of being a niche product. There are too many fundamental advantages to piping water through your house instead of refrigerant. I know hydronics is expensive now but I believe if it were done at the scale of minisplits it would be cheaper.

I excited to learn how your experience goes as well. I am in the process of planning a whole new heating system for my house and want to do it using an air-water heat pump. There are very few options here in the U.S. so obviously this one stands out as a prime contender.

Wow, I totally missed the replies here. Please let us know how it goes! I just saw they removed the smaller unit from their site. Hydro Solar has their -20*C models on a 25% off now, looks like they are being replaced with -25*C units. I'm with DC on this, there likely will be a big turning point soon as some competition enters the market.

Frankly it is not a bad looking unit with up to date F&B found with the larger manufactures. I am hung up on the claims of -31f operation yet the data is to -4f. That is a major difference, -4f is basically like the majority of other manufactures. For the deep north -4f places you in the position of requiring secondary energy. Logically it should be fossil based or electric based secondary energy with auto changeover. I have designed dozens of A2WHP installs (I represent another manufacture) some systems requiring up to 6) 4 ton units. I very much want to know more about Apollo but getting a live person on the phone or return email is a challenge. I totally dig there stats! As far as the future of A2WHP's I predict an explosion starting this year. Even companies like Rellio in Italy a 100 year old oil burner manufacture (70% owned by Carrier today) have taken notice and that plant now manufactures A2WHP's as well as oil burners, I think they see market share drying up? Is A2WHP's the answer to fossil based heat? The technology is getting better but the answer from what we know now is nope, just part of the answer. The better question is do we even know what the energy answer is?

A2WHP would be great to replace existing boiler systems if they could be plug and play with existing baseboard distribution systems or work with such systems byadding a little additional distribution (e.g., adding a panel boiler or two in the baseboard runs). Of course the big question is what is the outlet water temperature and how big (and expensive) of a buffer tank does it all need?

Still, one approach that might be interesting for someone like me (I have a HW boiler/baseboard system and have added a few low temp A2A mini splits to reduce the boiler use in much of the house) is to replace the boiler with a mix of A2WHP and several low temp A2A mini splits in a well designed mix. For instance, I would love to keep the baseboard system for heating bedrooms and bathrooms instead of having to put wall mounted mini split heads in each; and then put the mini split heads in the great room/kitchen areas...This might actually be cheaper than putting in all A2A mini split systems or running ductwork from a ducted mini split.

If you're in a heating-dominant climate that's the way to go. Add enough minisplit capacity to meet your cooling needs, the minisplits plus your existing radiators at a reduced temperature may be enough to meet your heating needs.

Howdy Nick, traditional boiler designs use affordable high temp baseboard often designed for 176f. This keeps baseboard lengths to a minimum. Any A2WHP for res based use will supply no hotter than 140f and then it is directly tied to ambient conditions, at very low conditions your hot water supply may be down to 105f. Most well engineered A2WHP,s will see the decreased supply starting at about 14f. Today we design for 110f baseboard and these low temp/high output baseboards work well with an A2WHP. There are many rules to hydronic heat but it comes down to the lower the supply the lower your energy cost will be. Even with a well designed oil or gas fired system why 180f when 110f works? Think about your own boiler if you could get the same results in the home with 110f water just how much fuel could you save? Lastly, the buffer tank plays a major role in a well designed system.

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