T&T: Krogen 42, cored hulls
bob england
Kadey Krogen boats were not in that bunch. The hulls were never built
"cheap". Properly adding a core to a fiberglass structure is never cheaper
than using just fiberglass. The problems happen when builders don't
presaturate the core material, or try to use a chopper gun over coring, etc.
delamination is the result. A cored hull is stronger than a noncored hull. A
cored hull that weighs the same as a solid hull is far and away stronger.
Krogens, even older ones, are not known for having bad hulls. Deck rot, bad
fuel tanks, window leaks, etc. they gottem, but good hulls. James Krogen was
very particular about his designs, he made sure the boats were built to his
specs. You just don't ever hear or read about a Krogen with "issues", unlike
a lot of other trawler types out there. Resale value is extremely good, not
all trawler owners can say that about there boat, which should tell you
something.
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R C Smith Jr
> Properly adding a core to a fiberglass structure is never cheaper
> than using just fiberglass.
Up until hull# 54, all Krogens were one-off construction. I owned #18. A
wood skeleton was constructed in the shape of the hull, airex (a closed-cell
foam) was laid over this skeleton and temporarily screwed in place from
underneath. Fiberglass was laid over the airex, allowed to cure, then the
hull was turned over, screws removed and the interior fiberglassed. All of
which any of us could have done in our backyard.
Using a core of some type is a requirement of this type of construction.
Bob
________________
Robert Calhoun Smith Jr
M/V MARY KATHRYN
Hatteras 58 LRC
Hobe Sound, FL
Waiting on weather...
bob england
don't think the way they were built is under question, just that cored hulls
in general are percieved to be weaker or less desirable than solid hulls. My
Krogen (1972) was hand laid in a mold by Charley Morgan's yard, using Airex
coring, and has zero hull problems, over 30 years later. The stringers and
transverse floors were even built with Airex. James Krogens lamination
schedule specs were on the heavy side so that probably helped a lot, and not
using core under highly stressed areas like rub rails, keels, etc. The
lamination schedule for my boat shows an optional core in the hull about 25
inches above the keel and 24 inches below the rubrail running almost the
length of the boat. I have drilled holes for transducers and raw water
through hull fittings and have not found it, although the hull is about 1
3/4 inches thick below the waterline. The specs show a 1/2 inch core, which
would be hard to see if properly wetted and layed over with stitchmat. The
specifications work out to about 1 1/4 inches of glass (gell coat then
stitch mat then woven roving, core, core mat, roving, etc), all that coupled
with the core would be about 1 3/4 inches. I don't know the lamination
schedule for later KK built boats but if they're even close to this they
should be good.
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