T&T: Ford Lehman 120 injector pump drain options
Drew Lippert
I am fed up with the hard to reach injector pump drain plugs on my Twin ford
Lehman 120s with Simms injector pumps. As you who have these babies know,
the oil has to be changed every 50 hours- royal pain.. The drain plug is
located on the bottom and is not easily accessed and the oil drains all over
the raw water pump and into the oil pan because you can't put anything in
there to catch the oil as it come out.
I'm sure the many smart folks on the forum have come up with a better
solution to do this maintenance.. I'm too lazy to work it out myself, so I'd
like to steal any ideas you all can throw my way.
Love the forum, many thanks in advance.
Drew
@Westerly
1978 GB 42 Classic
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Richard Tomkinson
With this info, you can fab a filler that will keep from overfill drips.
Don't use the side level screw to determine the correct level, just measure
oil before you pour in.
I (and many others) have a tap with a hose attached installed in the drain
hole. The drain hose goes to a convenient location. This means you are not
in with a wrench
to open and close the drain plug. If you don't have one, take the drain plug
around to an experienced mechanic shop
or to an engine parts outlet, and have them put it together for you.
The threads body and plugs are aluminum and very easy to strip or damage.
There is a small copper washer on the drain which is important to prevent
drips. It needs a new one every ten or twenty years or so.
Before I installed the tap, I used the top portion of a plastic bleach
bottle with an offset fill hole.
This fit quite nicely into the gap below the plug. However still had to get
fingers in to drop the plug.
It is quite likely your PO had a system and some fillers for this purpose.
Richard
Alec McLocklin (amclockl)
solution to do this maintenance.. I'm too lazy to work it out myself, so
I'd
like to steal any ideas you all can throw my way.
------------------------
You can fit a small, 3 inch funnel under the injector pump. I plug the
small end of the funnel into a plastic tube and feed that into a quart
oil container sitting in the engine pan. Works great. No mess.
Alec
GB 49 Alaskan
LI NY
Faure, Marin
solution to do this maintenance..
I've never had a problem draining the pumps. I fabricated a funnel of sorts
using a short length of water hose (the kind with the red "threads"
criss-crossed through it) and a small juice bottle. I cut the first couple of
inches of the hose in half and removed the "top" half. The other end of the
hose is a tight fit in the bottle. To change the oil I unscrew the drain plug
until it's almost ready to come out, then stick the half-hose end of the hose
under the drain, remove the plug, and all the oil flows into the hose "trough"
and then down into the bottle. No mess, no fuss.
This was with the stock Jabsco raw water pumps and the original Lehman pump
drive coupler. Unfortunately the Lehman drive coupler is a crap design. Bob
Smith, the man who designed it told me so--- he said it was the only component
of the Lehman marinization kit to have a factory recall and it's just a matter
of time before it will fail. New drive couplers are unobtainable and fixing
the old one is a temporary solution at best according to Bob. And when it
fails you loose your cooling water instantly and the engine will overheat
right now. And, as I have been told by everyone from American Diesel to
people I have met in the UK who in the day worked on hundreds of the base Ford
engine, the fastest way to kill this engine is to overheat it. One reason it
was such a dismal failure as a truck engine, which is what it was designed to
be.
The solution is to get rid of the whole deal-- Jabsco pump and Lehman drive
coupler-- and replace them with a new Johnson one-piece pump. We did this on
both our FL120s when one of the drive couplers began to fail.
The downside is that the Johnson pump is shorter than the original pump/drive
coupler. Which puts the pump body and the pump outflow hose directly under
the Simms drain plug with almost no clearance. This eliminates any chance of
fabricating any sort of clever drain fitting. Fortunately I discovered that
my home-made hose and bottle device still fits in the minimal space between
the Johnson pump and the drain fitting. The only difference is that there
isn't room for the half-hose and my fingers at the same time. So there is a
second or two between my removing the plug and my getting the half-hose under
the drain. The cure for this is to drape a rag--- we use old (clean)
diapers--- over the pump and outflow hose. This easily catches the small
amount of oil that comes out before I get the hose in place. So still no
mess, no fuss.
______________________________
C. Marin Faure
GB36-403 (grp) "La Perouse"
Bellingham, Washington
Ken MTBDEMON
Thanks for the information! Are there any pictures of the pumps that you
speak? I have a simple mind and pictures work best for me (Yes, I like
coloring books too) Thank you!
Ken
Coffee Trader II
GB 36-267
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Faure, Marin
I don't have any photos myself. You could call American Diesel and they will
give you all the information you could need about the Johnson pump. The pump
size recommended for the FL120 is 3/4". The pump size recommended for the
FL135 is 1". However the 1" pump also fits the FL120 and it provides a
slightly higher volume of water flow. When we swapped our stock pump/drive
setups for the Johnson pumps the 3/4" pumps were back ordered from the
manufacturer so on the recommendation of both Bob Smith at AD and our diesel
shop we went with the 1" pumps. The pumps have not changed the coolant
temperature at cruise power but they have lowered (by feel, I haven't measured
it) the transmission temperature. And any time you can reduce the operating
temperature of a transmission it's a Good Thing.
______________________________
C. Marin Faure
GB36-403 (grp) "La Perouse"
Bellingham, Washington
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