T&T: headliner replacement

[Jim Gano via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

One of my future projects is to replace the original headliner in my 1983 Grand Banks 42 classic.  While I am at it, I would like to add insulation above it.  My brother did his years ago and used some type of plastic panels with teak strips in between them. 
I am considering that way.. but am looking for additional comments...
first of all, what is the best type of insulation?  Fiberglass batting or some kind of sprayed in foam (or other)?
Also, in terms of the head liner material itself....  I am wondering if a hard smooth flat plastic type material would make the boat more noisy....  That is, are there some nice looking acoustical (noise deadening) materials other have used?
I will be doing the aft cabin, salon and forward berth... actually, I might contract it out... seems like more work than I want to do...

Jim Gano
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[Richard P via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Normally the main source of heat loss in a trawler are large single pane
windows. Their thermal resistance is typically R1 or less. This means that
for normal size windows insulating the cabin roof won’t make much
difference.

The best insulation I believe is closed cell polystyrene foam panels, the
pink ones you see in new construction. Assuming you are willing to drop
the room height by one inch you can compare the heat loss thru the ceiling
with that thru the windows. That will determine if it makes sense to put in
insulation.

If you are concerned with heat input to the cabin on a hot day then make
sure the roof is painted a very light color.

Richard

[Steve Bedford via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Jim,
A few years ago I did that project on our Willard 40. I used the 1/4" foil insulation for water heaters that you can find at big box home centers. Comes in a roll. It is about 1/4" thick so it did not really change the ceiling height. We also used the foam back headliner with a smooth texture. We got it at Sailrite. Might find it cheaper somewhere else but we liked their price and service at the time. They offer a wide range of texture and options with or without foam.

Very satisfied with the results.
Steve

----------------
Steve Bedford
maxmarineproducts.com
Home of the Super MAX Anchor
M/V No Regrets, Willard 40 FBS
Burgess, VA

Sent from my iPad. Please excuse misused words due to the "auto correct" function.

> On Mar 24, 2016, at 5:00 PM, Jim Gano via Trawlers-and-Trawlering <traw...@lists.trawlering.com> wrote:
>
> I am considering that way.. but am looking for additional comments...
> first of all, what is the best type of insulation? Fiberglass batting or some kind of sprayed in foam (or other)?
> Also, in terms of the head liner material itself.... I am wondering if a hard smooth flat plastic type material would make the boat more noisy....

[Randy Pickelmann via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Hi Jim!
I would avoid Fiberglas batts for your insulation project. Any small deck leak will saturate the Fiberglas and you will pay hell trying to get it dry. I vote for expanded styrene foam or maybe the foil covered stuff.

Regards,
Randy Pickelmann
Morning Star
lying Pelican Bay

Sent from my iPad

[Rich Gano via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

I have no quibble with Richard's comment about the adverse heating effect of the large windows in a trawler, and my brother Jim's Grand Banks has plenty of them. However, the cabin overheads are not insulated behind the perforated vinyl headliner, and that's where Jim is interested in adding insulation. No lowering of the overhead will be involved. When I removed the raggedy old vinyl headliner from my GB back in the mid-1990s in preparation to replace it, I found a two-plus inch deep space up there totally devoid of insulation. I purchased and cut up 4X8 foot home construction foam insulation panels faced on both sides with aluminum foil (do not remember the R-value), doubled it to 1.5 inch thickness, and glued it in place before replacing the headliner. The cabin tops of my boat were painted with Awlgrip Snow White, about as white as you could get, and before the added insulation, you could still significant heat radiating onto the top of your head when you stood up in there on a summer day. The difference after insulation was added into the overhead was amazing, and my air conditioner could actually cool the air rather than just dehumidify it (also important here). For the windows, Jim has added white mesh see-through covers snapped over his windows like many people here in Florida do.

What he is looking for now is an update for any products or suggestions that have come along in the last couple of decades since I insulated my GBs overhead.

Rich Gano
FROLIC 2005 Mainship 30 Pilot II
Panama City, FL

> The best insulation I believe is closed cell polystyrene foam panels, the pink
> ones you see in new construction. Assuming you are willing to drop the
> room height by one inch you can compare the heat loss thru the ceiling with
> that thru the windows. That will determine if it makes sense to put in
> insulation.
>
> If you are concerned with heat input to the cabin on a hot day then make
> sure the roof is painted a very light color.
>

[jag--- via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Jim

If you will be recovering the fibreglass hull sides in the forward berth
or elsewhere I used a hull liner called "Sea Galley". It is a very light
carpet type material similar if not the same as can be seen on the
Sailrite site and their how-do videos.

I was impressed how it can be stretched around curves with out having to
do any tucks. If you make a cut a little short - no problem just stretch
it. A downside I found if you wish to drill through it it grabs the drill
bit and clogs it up. Perhaps using a small pencil tip soldering iron would
be a work around.

OH! Don't use power screwdrivers to remove plugs / bungs.

John