T&T: re Barnacle Barrier vs Rustoleum Zinc

[Edward Tibbetts via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Has anyone tried Rustoleun Zinc spray on under water metal?

I have been using the rustolium product for 2 years with good results. We have a home port in Lynn, Ma, and average 130 hours of run time a season (late June to mid Sept) 36' G.B. Classic, 2 120 Lehmans, running at 1400rpm with 2-1 velvet drives. 46 nights cruising the south Cape, Nantucket, M.V., Block, and Narragandet bay. 1 coat does the season for me. No barnacles or groath on props and shafts, thin paint on prop tips.

Ed T.


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[Milt Baker via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

I tried Pettit’s spray since Barnacle Barrier for the first time this year
and was pleased with its performance. The boat was launched in June with
the props freshly coated, and when we hauled at the end of September we had
about 95% of the Barnacle Barrier still there with zero fouling. The wear
was along the leading edges near the blade tips.

Pettit’s directions say:

1.

Remove all paint from underwater metals and running gear by sanding,
scraping, sandblasting or by using a paint and varnish remover. Once back
to bare, clean metal wipe the surface with Pettit 120 Brushing Thinner and
let dry.

I am wondering whether it is essential to go back to bare metal as Petit’s
directions specify? Has anyone tried a touch-up by lightly sanding and
wiping with Pettit brushing thinner? If so, how did the touch-up work?

Thanks,

Milt Baker, Nordhavn 47 Bluewater, on the hard in SW Harbor, ME

1.

[Rudy and Jill via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

We never go back to bare metal when using spray-on zinc to coat our prop and shaft, in fact, there have been times when we had just spray over the previous coatings without even sanding, though I do suggest sanding first with 80 grit or smaller just to provide tooth for the new paint. Some experience suggests that allowing the paint 24 hours or so to dry provides for longer lasting coverage, though we've re-launched without this amount of time and still can claim relatively good longevity without growth. What I find interesting is how much of the paint can disappear before growth starts to occur.

By the way, Milt, the "project" is ready and should be available at Ft Lauderdale's Boat Show. Don't be surprised it you get a copy in the mail!

Rudy and Jill
Morgan's Bluff, Andros
Briney Bug- a 34 foot sail-assisted trawler
850-832-7748

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 10/13/15, Milt Baker via Trawlers-and-Trawlering <traw...@lists.trawlering.com> wrote:

Subject: T&T:  re Barnacle Barrier vs Rustoleum Zinc
To: "Trawlers and Trawlering List" <traw...@lists.trawlering.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 13, 2015, 8:26 AM

[Sean Welsh via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

On 10/13/2015 08:26 AM, Milt Baker via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote:
> ...

> I am wondering whether it is essential to go back to bare metal as Petit’s
> directions specify? Has anyone tried a touch-up by lightly sanding and
> wiping with Pettit brushing thinner? If so, how did the touch-up work?
>

Milt, I use Rustoleum rather than Pettit, but as I've said previously,
they are identical. After originally prepping down to bare metal for the
initial application, I now only do a light sanding with 150-grit and
spray right over the existing coating. I use acetone for the wipe-down;
I have not looked at Pettit Brushing Thinner to see what it contains.

FWIW, I also use the Rustoleum zinc spray to touch up the galvanized
anchor, galvanized chain, and plain steel hammer-lock connector.

-Sean
m/y Vector
lying Potomac River at Fairview Beach
http://OurOdyssey.BlogSpot.com

[RWP via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Milt and All,
I have successfully switched back and forth between the Pettit and Rustoleum products.
Initial prep was per Pettit’s instructions. After that I never went back to bare metal. Rather, like others, I sanded lightly before wiping with either acetone or alcohol (can’t remember for sure) and then recoated. Actually, last year I used a heavy scuffing attachment on a cordless drill. You probably know what I’m talking about…like a 3M pad on steroids. Worked great.
If I remember correctly, Pettit cautions not over-apply. Two coats only and not too thick.
So far, so good.

Regards,
Randy Pickelmann
Morning Star

[Jim Gano via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

In reference to re-applying Barnacle Barrier..... My boat is in the yard right now... I have spare props with Barnacle Barrier that I am having the yard put on the boat... I plan to have them coat the props with lanolin (greasy stuff) before the boat goes back in the water... Any idea how this may impact future Barnacle Barrier touch up painting? Jim Gano

[Milt Baker via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Thanks for the good advice, Randy! Indeed, I have some of those course 3M
rotary scuffers for the electric drill and that seems like a great idea--I
hadn’t thought of that, but I’m all for saving labor.

I was really surprised that the zinc stayed on my props so well. Seems a
much better solution than the finicky PropSpeed which works great for
multiple systems when applied properly but is hard to apply correctly and
easy to screw up. When PropSpeed is done right it’s a solution but when
it’s done wrong (as the esteemed Hinckey Company did on my boat last time
around), it’s an expensive mistake. I’ll stick with zinc.

Milt Baker, Nordhavn 47 Bluewater, on the hard in Southwest Harbor, ME

On Wed, Oct 14, 2015 at 7:32 AM, RWP <rwp...@yahoo.com> wrote:

> Milt and All,
> I have successfully switched back and forth between the Pettit and
> Rustoleum products.
> Initial prep was per Pettit’s instructions. After that I never went back
> to bare metal. Rather, like others, I sanded lightly before wiping with
> either acetone or alcohol (can’t remember for sure) and then recoated.
> Actually, last year I used a heavy scuffing attachment on a cordless
> drill. You probably know what I’m talking about…like a 3M pad on
> steroids. Worked great.
> If I remember correctly, Pettit cautions not over-apply. Two coats only
> and not too thick.
> So far, so good.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

[Rich Gano via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

When you get ready to scuff the running gear with all of its curvy surfaces, consider a polishing ball for your drill motor. I got one at Harbor Freight the other day to use on some welding work I had done on my trim tabs, and I think it would work extremely well on scuffing zinc painted surfaces. The material is the 3-M green scratch pads made up into a ball.


Rich Gano
2005 Mainship 30 Pilot II
Panama City, FL

[joe via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Ditto for me. I've been using it for four years and followed the application instructions using acetone to assure a clean surface. My results have been mostly still clear of hard growth after 2 years. I assume the amount of silt in the water that can abrade the coating will wear it more quickly. In my case the resulting growth after 2 years is greatest in the hub area? Given the application instructions are explicit, I would at least remove any dirt or grease (lanolin) prior to applying an overcoat over remaining zinc. I've always taken the props back to bare metal again to re coat as the boat is already on the hard and the paint is cheap.

Joe Pica
M/V Carolyn Ann GH N-37
http://carolynann-n37.blogspot.com/
MTOA#3813, AGLCA #5485