T&T: Rejex polymer versus real wax on gelcoat

[badornato via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

My new to me Sabre is on the hard now in the boatyard and "we" just finished
compounding the oxidation off the dark flag blue hull (gelcoat).

Now the question is should I use the Rejex polymer on the hull or do a
conventional wax job?

Rejex is very easy to apply which is the attractant but I am concerned
about its longevity. I use it
on my TR3 happily but the TR lives in the garage.

Any experience?

If they are both going to need a re-do in 6 months (while she is in the
water), the Rejex is much easier to apply.
And what happens if i want to do wax in 6 months over Rejex or vice-versa?


Bruce Adornato
Mary Shaw
Sabre 42
Sand Francisco

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[Martha Sweeney via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

We used Rejex (two coats) last season and it looked as good at the end
as when we first did it. Our 1986 hull had a hard glass shine. We were
thrilled.

---
Martha Sweeney
Comptroller
Highway One Limited Partnership
PO Box 507
Dewey Beach, DE 19971
(302) 227-3888

On 2015-01-27 19:19, badornato via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote:

> My new to me Sabre is on the hard now in the boatyard and "we" just finished
> compounding the oxidation off the dark flag blue hull (gelcoat).

[writerfred--- via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Neither Rejex nor Finish First has any resemblance to Polyglow with which I've had first hand and not good experience.


You should use a cleaner to remove dirt, oxidation and old wax before applying either Rejex or Finish First so they can establish a good molecular bond with the substrate.


Either one will hang tough during normal washings, a feature strongly in their favor. But if you later change your mind, you can either remove them with a normal pre-cleaner or wax over them just as you would use wax over wax.

[Matthew Hahn via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Interesting thread on this was substitute. Has anyone had any experience
with 303 Aerospace Protectant? It has similar claims to Rejex of providing
a molecular bond and a longer lasting and superior finish to wax. I've
always subscribed to thought on waxing that if its too easy its not working,
but, always looking for a better way too!

Polyglow I've seen in action... Great for a good shine if you intend to SELL
your boat to a future enemy..

>Neither Rejex nor Finish First has any resemblance to Polyglow with which
I've had first hand and not good experience.

[writerfred--- via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

303 is an excellent product. I've used it for years on vinyl and rubber components. But I don't know if it performs via a molecular bond. Even if it does, I'm not sure I would place it in the same category with Rejex and Finish First.


Not so incidentally, Rain-X is also a polymer, the reason it gives prolonged performance on glass. In fact, that's the reason Rejex and Finish First can be used on glass as well as fiberglass and metal.

[Norm Miller via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

We have been using 3M Scotchguard Marine liquid wax.

Easy on and easy off. After 8 months still looks great and the water beads up like you cant believe. Buy the one liter bottle for best pricing; Amazon has it. It too is a polymer wax.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchgard-Marine-Liquid-1-Liter/dp/B0016H2MFW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422625208&sr=8-1&keywords=scotch+guard+marine+wax

Also for heavy oxidation buy 3M Scotchbrite pads 6inX9in. The Maroon ones for heavy oxidation or Ultra fine Gray for light oxidation. We scrub with water and Dawn and they do a great job of renewing the gelcoat before you wax.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Brite-General-Purpose-6-Inch/dp/B000LPN3WQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422625334&sr=8-2&keywords=scotchbrite+pad

http://www.amazon.com/3M-HP-HP-Scotch-Brite-Hand-Pad/dp/B00125PR5A/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1422625334&sr=8-11&keywords=scotchbrite+pad

No connection just very happy with the result!

Norm Miller
Quiet Company
Great Harbour GH47

Sent from my iPad. Please excuse typing errors...

[joe via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

I want to echo Norm's endorsement of 3m Scotch Guard . We have been using this product for 6 years with great results. On surfaces not exposed to water abrasion it lasts until washed off with an aggressive soap. The bow wake wash does wear it off, however nothing survives that for long. Any ICW beard is much easier to remove with the 3mm product sealing the gelcoat pores. The key to any of these products is good prep and removal of all stains/dirt. Otherwise, you just seal the stain and dirt in.
I have used the Rejex product and it does a wonderful job. However, read the application instructions carefully. Unless your boat is in climate controlled storage it is almost impossible to comply with the Rejex application and cure requirements.


Joe Pica
M/V Carolyn Ann GH N-37
http://carolynann-n37.blogspot.com/
MTOA#3813, AGLCA #5485

[B. V. via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

A quick question : what's wrong with Polyglow if you intend to add a coat
every six months or so ?

Many listees seem to hate Polyglow. Any first hand experience with good
reports over the years ?

[Rich Gano via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

I dunno, but I have a package of it I have never opened. I think its
looking for a good home.

Rich Gano
Calypso (GB-CL42 Hull 295)
Panama City, FL

> A quick question : what's wrong with Polyglow if you intend to add a coat
> every six months or so ?
>
> Many listees seem to hate Polyglow. Any first hand experience with good
> reports over the years ?
>
>

[Steve Sipe via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

What I used wasn't branded Polyglow, but the same stuff- industrial
strength acrylic floor wax. Worst product I was ever suckered into.

The stuff turns to a shade of yellow-gray as it ages. More stuff brings
back the shine, but the gray cast remains. It also peels off in areas of
high UV exposure leaving a mottled surface. The overcoat compounds the
effect. It is next to impossible to remove. Ammonia has some effect, the
spray cleaner/remover doesn't cut it. Acetone works better but it
evaporates so quickly that it doesn't have a chance to dissolve the
coating, So you end up using a whole lot of it. Then it has to be
compounded to even the finish and complete the removal.

I doubt you'll find any experience with good reports, first hand or
otherwise.

But try it out if you're convinced. Just remember, there's no free
lunch. <G>

On 1/30/2015 10:11 AM, B. V. via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote:
> A quick question : what's wrong with Polyglow if you intend to add a coat
> every six months or so ?
>
> Many listees seem to hate Polyglow. Any first hand experience with good
> reports over the years ?
>
>

> --
> Steve Sipe
> Solo 4303 "Maerin"
> New River, Ft Lauderdale

[Dan Stone via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

Many years ago I purchased a boat with Poliglo on the hull. Had not been maintained and had its typical yellowed, orange peel appearance. I bought the boat not realizing how difficult the stuff is to remove. Two boat detailing companies would not touch it, realizing how much labor would be involved and having had the experience with dissatisfied customers in the past. Finally ran across a fellow who took the job on, but saying the only thing that would work was
3M Adhesive Remover, and that it wasn't cheap. He got it off ok and all turned out fine but "never again".

>
> What I used wasn't branded Polyglow, but the same stuff- industrial strength acrylic floor wax. Worst product I was ever suckered into.
>
> The stuff turns to a shade of yellow-gray as it ages. More stuff brings back the shine, but the gray cast remains. It also peels off in areas of high UV exposure leaving a mottled surface. The overcoat compounds the effect. It is next to impossible to remove. Ammonia has some effect, the spray cleaner/remover doesn't cut it. Acetone works better but it evaporates so quickly that it doesn't have a chance to dissolve the coating, So you end up using a whole lot of it. Then it has to be compounded to even the finish and complete the removal.
>
> I doubt you'll find any experience with good reports, first hand or otherwise.
>
>

[Mike Pedersen via Trawlers-and-Trawlering]

I suffered from a previous owners application of poliglow. I feel so
strongly about this stuff, that I will never recommend putting it on a
boat, nor would I purchase a boat with it applied (or at least ask for a
discount for the amount of work it takes to get off).
I tried lots off cleaners. I finally found "goof-off" grafitti remover
worked. Then I wet sanded hull with ammonia and 1000 grit. Wet sanded again
with 1500 grit. Machine finished with 3M rubbing compound, 3M polishing
compound and Finnesse-it and coated it with 3M wax.

I found the 30 year old Nordic Tug gelcoat was very thick, and wetsanding
didn't remove much at all, but it certainly brought back the shine.

Mike Pedersen
Powell River, BC