T&T: toggle switch for thick panels

[Richard E Packard]

For various projects I need to install switches in 3/4" thick panels. The
only switches I have found that can be mounted in a simple hole in such a
panel are push-pull switches. Does anyone know of a toggle switch that can
be mounted in a 3/4" panel?

Richard P.
_______________________________________________
http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com

To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com
Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

[Wayne Beardsley]

*There is a mechanical limitation on the length of the internal toggle and
3/4 inch is a bit of a stretch. The longest mounting barrel that I have
seen is on Carling switches. Unfortunately they don't seem to specify
maximum panel thickness but judging from the pictures it is much longer
than average:*



*http://tinyurl.com/carlingtoggleswitches
<http://tinyurl.com/carlingtoggleswitches>*


*If that doesn't work out you will need to cut a hole big enough for the
switch(s) and mount a thinner panel over the top.*


*Failing that, the push/pull switches will definitely do the job.*


*Regards,*

*Wayne Beardsley*

*Grand Banks 49 Classic, Long Legged lady*

*currently at Larchmont YC*


*--------------------*For various projects I need to install switches in

3/4" thick panels. The
only switches I have found that can be mounted in a simple hole in such a
panel are push-pull switches. Does anyone know of a toggle switch that can
be mounted in a 3/4" panel?

---------------------

[L. Shay Glass]

This is not exactly what you ask for but I solved the same problem using a
plastic laminate "Formica" sample from Lowe's. You can get the Formica
sample in almost any color it is 2 3/4" x 2". The plastic comes with a
small hole in one end and I drill another small hole in the other end.
These are used as screw holes for mounting. Drill a larger hole in the
center of the plastic to mount the standard toggle switch. Drill a hole in
the wood big enough so the switch will clear but small enough to cover with
the plastic cover plate. I file the edges of the plastic smooth and use a
magic marker to color. The price is right and it looks good.

If you want a picture email me and I will send you one.

Larger samples are available from stores specializing in laminate counter
tops. These can be uses for multiple switches.

Shay Glass
Morehead City Yacht Basin
DeFever CPMY "Escape"


--
Shay Glass

[Steve Sipe]

I'd suggest a piece of ABS panel 1/8" thick. It's relatively
inexpensive, and can be fabricated using hand tools. It can be cut with
a box cutter, a small block plane is helpful to dress the edges. It's
great for making panels for mounting switches and other panel-mounted
controls particularly if you're covering an existing opening. The
textured surface gives a great finished appearance. Just Google "ABS
textured panel" for a variety of sources.

On 8/30/2014 2:26 AM, Richard E Packard wrote:
> For various projects I need to install switches in 3/4" thick panels. The
> only switches I have found that can be mounted in a simple hole in such a
> panel are push-pull switches. Does anyone know of a toggle switch that can
> be mounted in a 3/4" panel?
>

--
Steve Sipe
Solo 4303 "Maerin"
Middle River, MD

[Al Thomason]

Rich,

Most toggle switches are designed for 3/8" or less panels - is a physics
things for the toggle arm. To make a barrel longer would require a dbl
pivot - and I have never seen one of those.

In addition to the ideas of a cover plates mentioned, a common way is to
drill or route out a relief from the backside that the body of the switch
can be placed into - a 'switch well' if you will... Thereby leaving a
thinner thickness for the barrel.

Another idea? You can get rocker switches that have a paddle on them -
those mount from the front, but might also would have some troubles with a
3/4" thickness. But it would 'simulate' a toggle switch in some way.

Perhaps this is one reason why the old Corse Healy pull-push switches were
used so much back with wood boats..

Best of luck, sorry there does not seem to be a simple solution for you....

-al-


Viking Star
45' Monk Sr. / McQueen
mvVikingStar.blogspot.com

[TW Collins]

In the past I've accomplished this task by simply hole-sawing from the
rear of the panel only to a depth that will allow the switch to nest
inside the cavity while leaving 1/4 to 3/8 of the original panel
thickness remaining. I then pop out the core and finish by drilling the
appropriate mounting hole for the switch through the hole saw guide
hole. Result is the original material on the front of the panel with no
need for a butch plate.

Tom Collins - Misty Sea

[TW Collins]

Steve,

Easy. Just stick a screwdriver in the slot cut by the hole saw and pull
sideways on it. The core will usually pop out easily. You may have to
dress up the bottom of the hole with a chisel to make it even, but that
shouldn't be a big deal because you are working with the grain for solid
lumber or simply removing plys in the case of plywood.

You might want to practice on a similar piece of scrap wood to develop
your technique the first time; although that really isn't necessary as
it is a fairly straightforward and simple task. Just don't cut the hole
too deep. You can always do more if it isn't deep enough the first time.

Tom Collins - Misty Sea

On 8/31/14, 12:25 PM, Steven Dubnoff wrote:
> Hi Tom:
>
> That looks like a good strategy, but how do you "pop out" the core. It
> seems to me it is still connected to the front part.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve

[Al Thomason]

If the access works out, a forstner bit makes a nice depression. In fact I
make two plunges using say a 3/4" bit, overlapping them a small amount.
Then cleaning up a bit with a sharp chisel. Make an oblong shaped
depression that fits nicely.

-al-


Viking Star
45' Monk Sr. / McQueen
mvVikingStar.blogspot.com

[Bob McLeran]

A router would work well for this purpose (with the depth easy to set to
take out the correct amount), and you wouldn't have to be concerned
about the point of any type of drill punching through the face side.

<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base
DeFever 41 Trawler Melbourne, Florida
Blog: http://mvsanderling.net/Blog
Web: http://cruising.mvsanderling.net/

On 8/31/2014 6:18 PM, Al Thomason wrote:
> If the access works out, a forstner bit makes a nice depression. In fact I
> make two plunges using say a 3/4" bit, overlapping them a small amount.
> Then cleaning up a bit with a sharp chisel. Make an oblong shaped
> depression that fits nicely.
>

[Celestial]

'Lo Wayne,

I have found myself in your situation. I had to chisel out part of
the panel to allow the switch body to be inset into the panel, so
that the end of the threads were above the surface of the panel a
little so that the nut could have a good hold on the threads. Worked very well.


Take care and be safe.

Wayne
Celestial
Albin 43 Sundeck
Near Panama City, FL