T&T: Westerbeke Generator Water Pump - Water in Oil

[Glen Moore]

Had the same problem with our Westerbeke 8KW.

The seal in the water pump would fail in as little as 100 hours. Had the
dealer rebuild the pump. The seal failed in 50 hours, so badly that the
water blew through the water seal, past the weep holes, then through the
oil seal into the engine. When I found what looked like a chocolate milk
shake coating the entire oil dip stick, I called the dealer/mechanic. He
said my oil/water problem was the raw water pump. Obviously, this is a
common problem if he could diagnose it over the phone. He suggested
flushing the engine and hope that no damage was done.

I took off the valve cover and cleaned the goo from inside. Since the
cover remains somewhat cool, the oil/water goo builds up there. Drained
the oil. Put in new oil. Ran a few minutes. Drained oil. Repeated --
cleaned inside of valve cover, new oil, ran to warm, drained. Repeated,
running until hot. After 6 oil changes there were no more signs of water
in the oil. This was 6 years ago and the Westerbeke is still running fine.

The problem was the design of the raw water pump. Replaced the original
pump, with a D shaped cover, with a later model pump, with a round cover.
Have not had a leak since.

Glen Moore
DeFever 40 Last Dance
Currently in Deltaville, VA
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[Henry J. Dennig]

Glen,
I replaced the pump and am now dealing with the oil/goo. I cannot
drain it using the normal Oil changing pump - it will not suck it out.
I am looking at maybe a dipstick pump and/or using a heat gun to
warm/heat the oil pain but I do not want to encourage rust. Suggestions?
Henry

[Henry J. Dennig]

Glen,
I was able to get the oil/water mix out of the engine but have nto been
able to do multiple oil changes due to the original problem of not being
able to start the genset.
I have jumped 12 to the fuel cutoff solenoid and hear a significant
click/bang as it is energized. When I try to crank the engine, the solenoid
makes it's sound after I release the Start Switch which I am thinking it
moving to Fuel Shut off position.
I opened the high pressure lines form the injectors and am not seeing
fuel there at all.

There is a banjo fitting that appears to be where the fuel line from the
on-engine fuel filter and the return line connect and I am getting fuel
there.

Henry

<snip>
Subject: T&T: Westerbeke Generator Water Pump - Water in Oil

Had the same problem with our Westerbeke 8KW.

The seal in the water pump would fail in as little as 100 hours. Had the
dealer rebuild the pump. The seal failed in 50 hours, so badly that the
water blew through the water seal, past the weep holes, then through the oil
seal into the engine. When I found what looked like a chocolate milk shake
coating the entire oil dip stick, I called the dealer/mechanic. He said my
oil/water problem was the raw water pump. Obviously, this is a common
problem if he could diagnose it over the phone. He suggested flushing the
engine and hope that no damage was done.

I took off the valve cover and cleaned the goo from inside. Since the cover
remains somewhat cool, the oil/water goo builds up there. Drained the oil.
Put in new oil. Ran a few minutes. Drained oil. Repeated -- cleaned
inside of valve cover, new oil, ran to warm, drained. Repeated, running
until hot. After 6 oil changes there were no more signs of water in the
oil. This was 6 years ago and the Westerbeke is still running fine.

The problem was the design of the raw water pump. Replaced the original
pump, with a D shaped cover, with a later model pump, with a round cover.
Have not had a leak since.

Glen Moore
DeFever 40 Last Dance

<snip>

[Steve Sipe]

Check to confirm the lift pump is functioning. If failed get a generic repl. There are 2 styles used one is cylindr other is square.
You may have a holding relay out there should be 2. They're available at auto parts about $15
I keep a spare lift pump & relay

Sent from my iPhone

[Henry J. Dennig]

Steve,
Thank you for the reply.
I am getting fuel to the injector pump...but was not at the high
pressure/injectors. I keep a Facet pump onboard for the heater system.

I think I am making progress...I took the solenoid off and could not
get the fuel rack to move. Some WD-40 and PB-Blaster, a wrench on the
throttle linkage and some DNA left on a few bolts - I started to get drips
of fuel. More WD-40 and PB-Blaster and I am getting more movement. Put
the parts back together and give it a shot...It turns over and started. It
then blew about a quart of water/oil in my face, as it blew the rubber
filter seal off the oil filter.
I got the rest of the oil out with a pump and will try to do several
oil changes tomorrow with longer run times.

Working on the genset requires me to lay on my side and slide in next
to the engine so when it blasts you with water/oil, it makes a big mess and
even turning off the engine is a challenge when your glasses are covered
with the grey goo. The grandson got a good laugh as a climbed out of the
engine room and started peeling clothes off.

Thank you to everyone who has helped me.

Henry


<snip>

Check to confirm the lift pump is functioning. If failed get a generic repl.
There are 2 styles used one is cylindr other is square.
You may have a holding relay out there should be 2. They're available at
auto parts about $15 I keep a spare lift pump & relay

[Henry J. Dennig]

Glen, Rich, Steve and others who have replied with suggestions and guidance,



THANK YOU. The List is very helpful to have for getting help from
folks I might never ever meet.

I wanted to give everyone a update.

It is running and seems to be fine. When I could not get it to start
after running it for several hours, I had a local mechanic aboard, and
within 20 minutes, he confirmed that the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid was not
working as designed. A run to Annapolis to fetch the part and the unit is
running like it used to. The oil sender is not showing any oil pressure
but that will be replaced soon, if the cleaning did not change the problem
last night. A few nights at anchor and we will confirm all is well again.

Thank you

Henry

<snip>

From: Glen Moore [mailto:boat...@gmail.com]



Henry,



Was ready to write you this morning with my latest suggestion, but read your
post on T&T and see that you got the genie started. Congratulations. Hate
to admit it, but I did join your grandson in a bit of a chuckle. I, too,
have a very tight engine room. I have gotten into corners and in positions
to do a job, then was unsure if I could ever extricate myself from that
spot. Hopefully, your glasses kept some of the goo out of your eyes.



We came close to buying another boat, a much, much larger boat, because it
had a stand up engine room that a dozen people could fit in.



May a few flushes get you back in the electrical generating business.



Glen

On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 10:56 PM, Henry J. Dennig <hjde...@hotmail.com
<mailto:hjde...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

Steve,
Thank you for the reply.
I am getting fuel to the injector pump...but was not at the high
pressure/injectors. I keep a Facet pump onboard for the heater system.

I think I am making progress...I took the solenoid off and could not
get the fuel rack to move. Some WD-40 and PB-Blaster, a wrench on the
throttle linkage and some DNA left on a few bolts - I started to get drips
of fuel. More WD-40 and PB-Blaster and I am getting more movement. Put
the parts back together and give it a shot...It turns over and started. It
then blew about a quart of water/oil in my face, as it blew the rubber
filter seal off the oil filter.
I got the rest of the oil out with a pump and will try to do several
oil changes tomorrow with longer run times.

Working on the genset requires me to lay on my side and slide in next
to the engine so when it blasts you with water/oil, it makes a big mess and
even turning off the engine is a challenge when your glasses are covered
with the grey goo. The grandson got a good laugh as a climbed out of the
engine room and started peeling clothes off.

Thank you to everyone who has helped me.

Henry

<snip>