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Review of the progress in any area of inquiry is significant as this assessment enables theory development, identification of trends in topics, funding, and research strategies (Lennon et al. 2001) as well as uncovers future research needs and directions (Damhorst 1990). Several such evaluations have been completed on dress topics including the meanings of dress (Damhorst 1990), the influence of dress on behavior (Johnson et al. 2008), and dress and aging (Twigg 2007) among others.
Our interest was in providing a review of empirical research that utilized human participants and that addressed relationships between dress and sex. Several previous researchers either reviewed empirical dress research or performed a content analysis of such research (Damhorst 1990; Johnson et al. 2008, 2014; Lennon et al. 1995, 2001, 2014; Oliver and Mahoney 1991; Twigg 2007). Those studies, published since 1990, focused specifically or partly on dress research with human participants. Although Lennon et al. (2014) noted that dress conveys information related to various aspects of sex (e.g., likelihood of being sexually harassed, intentions concerning sexual activity), none of the reviews/content analyses focused specifically on research using human participants that studied relationships between dress and sex. Hence, our initial research goal was to provide a review of the empirical research that contained investigations of relationships between dress and any aspect of sex (e.g., sexual activity, sexual orientation, sexiness) and was published in refereed journals. This review is useful to both faculty and students interested in pursuing research on connections between dress and sex or who teach courses that include such content as it provides a synthesis of available research and identifies knowledge gaps.
Two other events in 1991 gained national attention because they were nationally broadcast to millions of viewers (Gray 2016; Jordon 1991). Anita Hill testified on live television before the US Senate Judiciary committee regarding the sexual harassment experienced while working for Clarence Thomas (Gray 2016). Although that case did not involve dress, it did bring sexual harassment to national attention. Also in the same year, William Kennedy Smith was found not guilty of sexual assault. During that nationally televised trial (Jordon 1991), a photo of the bra worn by the survivor was admitted as evidence. The defense maintained that because the lacy bra with faux pearls was undamaged, the survivor was not tackled and did not struggle as she had testified (Lennon et al. 1999). These events with their focus on sex may have inspired some dress scholars in their research.
Our research review focused on empirical social science research using human participants that was published in English in refereed journals. We were interested in research located in refereed journals because this research is vetted by academic peers and information is easily available about the peer-review process. As a result, conceptual papers, theoretical pieces, legal analyses, books, and historical works were not included.
To locate research for our review we conducted database searches using pairs of the following keywords: fashion, dress, clothing, or provocative clothing and sex, sexualization, sexualized, objectification, or gender. The databases used were Academic Search Premier, PsycINFO, and Google Scholar. We used the article abstracts to determine whether the articles were reports of empirical social science research that examined a relationship between dress and sex and used human participants. Article abstracts were also used to group the articles into thematic categories that represented a body of research. Article references were used to identify articles not located using the database search. This process resulted in identification of the articles that formed the basis of our review. Abstracts of the articles and key words were used to identify major topical areas (defined as areas wherein several researchers had conducted research).
For our purposes dress was defined as the total arrangement of noticeable body modifications and all material objects added to the body in the form of supplements (Roach-Higgins and Eicher 1992). In the research located through the database search, some of the examples of dress studied included clothing color, jewelry, sheer clothing, cosmetics use, and breast augmentation. Also in these articles, the term sex was used to describe the feelings, thoughts and behaviors associated with being either male or female, being involved in sexual matters, and/or being interested in sexual activity.
Since cultures offer different forms of dress (e.g., skirts, jewelry), colors (e.g., pink, blue), and dress details (e.g., ruffles) that are worn more by members of one sex than the other, researchers have documented the use of sex-specific items of dress to communicate biological sex. For example, Pomerleau et al. (1990) visited the homes of young children to learn whether mothers and fathers provided sex-typed environments and clothing to their children. Use of dress cues to signal biological sex was evident as boys were dressed in blue, red, or white, while girls were dressed in pink or multi colors and had more jewelry than boys. Girls often had yellow bedding and the boys blue. The researchers speculated that supplying young children with gendered environments might have an impact on preferences and specific abilities in children but did not address this idea in their research.
In addition to specific styles of dress, researchers have been interested in dress color as a sexual cue. Guguen (2012) showed male business students a single photo of a young woman wearing a t-shirt. Compared to when the woman wore blue, green, or white, men rated women wearing red as more attractive and as having more sexual intent. Elliot et al. (2013) continued research on the red-attractiveness-sexuality link in an African country as a step in determining whether response to red was universal. In that society the meaning of red was generally negative and had no link to overt romantic connotations. When a black and white photo of a woman was framed in red as compared to blue, men rated the woman as more attractive, indicated they were more interested in courting her, and were more likely to volunteer to meet her. Even though additional work is needed, an early indication is that the red-attractiveness-sexuality effect may hold true across cultures. Finally, Pazda et al. (2014) conducted experiments and found that women rated another woman wearing red as sexually receptive, were likely to derogate the sexual fidelity of a woman wearing red, and indicated they would guard their romantic partners from such a woman!
These women also provided their views about other women who dressed sexy. For them, overtly sexy dress suggested insincerity, a low social class, and a lack of morals and values. Older women commented that young women dressing sexy were immature and were participating in their own sexual objectification. In contrast, others indicated it was okay to show off your body when you were young and looked your best.
How individuals respond to women who wear sexy dress has also been studied. Guguen (2011) conducted a field experiment and measured the time it took for a man to approach a woman when she was dressed either in a very short skirt and an off-the-shoulder tightly fitted top with a plunging neckline or in a long skirt and blouse. As compared to when dressed in the long skirt, women wearing sexy clothing were approached in less time, were assigned a higher probability of agreeing to a date, and were assigned a higher probability of agreeing to have sex on a first date.
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