Update on slide motor replacement

[Al Fetch]

At long last, here's the update on my slide motor/gearbox replacement.  I hope it doesn't get too long.

 

First of all, the length of time to do the project isn't nearly as long as finding the right parts, ordering them, finding out they're wrong when they arrive, returning and then finally getting the right one!  My advice regarding this part is to deal directly with the manufacturer. I should have gone with the maufacturer from the start, but thought I could save a few bucks through a distributor.  Klauber Machine and Gear Company is in business and will sell directly to consumers.  They're not set up to handle credit transactions, but are happy to sell on a COD basis.  You order the part, they e-mail you with the price including shipping and COD charge, you confirm and they get it out.  They were efficient and knowledgable.  Here's their website.  www.klaubergear.com

 

 

I won't repeat the tials and tribulations of the removal process, other than to say that, in my opinion, the right way to remove the motor/gearbox is to remove the bracket first with the motor/gearbox attached, after, of course, removing the shear pins.  Trying to get enough wiggle room to get the unit off the drive shaft on both ends and also sliding it down and around the bracket would be extremely difficult, so just remove the bracket, and then remove the motor/gearbox from the bracket when you have it on the bench.  There are four long lag bolts that hold the bracket in place.  Be very careful in removing them.  In my case 3 of the 4 were slightly bent at the shank, which caused one to break off when I was trying to remove it.  I was able to successfully drill it out before reinstalling.  When I put it back on I used 4 new stainless steel lag screws.  I thought about using cased hardened screws, but elected not to because, as you probably know, case hardened bolts snap off rather than bend under pressure.  I wouldn't want to try to drill out case hardened material.  Instead, moving up from regular bolts to stainless steel gave me a little more strength, but will still bend before breaking.

 

As for re-installation......it was pretty straightforward.  To line the output shafts of the new motor to the holes in the square tube slide shafts, I simply slid the shafts into the tubes (motor/gearbox attached to the bracket), inserted the shear pins, removed the brake from the end of the motor and turned the motor/gearbox/bracket until the bracket lined up with the holes for the four lag screws.  Turned the lag screws back in, re-attached the brake and connected the wires. I tested things by attaching the wires with heavy duty alligator clip leads, then had my wife activate the slide button inside the coach.  My assumption was that the current limiting device that turns the motor off when the slide hits its stopping point was functioning properly before motor replacement, so I had no reason to believe it would't function just fine after.  But. to be safe, I was ready to pull the power by disconnecting the test lead if things went wrong.  My assumption proved correct and all is working perfectly.

 

The cost of the motor/gearbox came to a little over $400 after shipping and COD charge.  I think I'm going to order another just to have as a spare.  I'd hate to get stuck somewhere with a slide that won't come in and have to wait for parts to arrive.  Not a bad price to pay for a little peace of mind, especially when our travel plans for next year include a trip to Alaska.  Really don't want to have a slide problem in the hinterlands of the Last Great Frontier!

 

I hope this helps if you ever have to replace one of yours.

 

Al Fetch

2004 TS Supreme

45 DS04

 

 

 

[Steve Adams]

Thanks for the update Al. Glad you got it going again.

 

Steve

 

[trau...@aol.com]

thanks Al

Is there a Part number on that with Klauber gear ?   Great info for the forum thanks for the info

Jon
05 select

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[Al Fetch]

The Klauber part number is K01336A300 .

 

Al