Throwing the Dogs
Mac
anywhere near them. 40 kilometers of ruts and potholes, bumps and
mud, bring us through the backwoods of the Sierra de Andújar. I'd
taken the precaution of buying a large-scale map of the area and
asking the advice of the señor in the visitor centre at Las Viñas, at
the beginning of this road. He confirms that it is possible, and
shrugs slightly when I ask about the state of the road. To our
surprise, we find two fancy new miradors along the route, so people
like us are expected. The Spanish seem to take appalling roads for
granted, as part of their heritage. (If any readers haven't driven in
Spain, don't let this put you off: when roads are renovated, it is
usually to a far higher standard than is necessary for the traffic -
we later drove 50 kilometers of wide new tarmac and saw 2 cars and 5
tractors).
The eastern edge of the Sierra Morena brings us to the Pueblo Nuevo of
Santa Elena, at the southern end of the spectacular gorge where the
Autovía Madrid-Andalucía splits into separate carriageways to snake
and tunnel through the mountains. It says something for Spanish
history and topography that there is a word in the language for "to
throw over a cliff", so El Desfiladero de los Peñaperros" may be
rather awkwardly translated as "The gorge where the dogs were thrown
over the cliffs" The dogs in this case were Moors captured during the
Reconquista - perhaps a rather sensitive reference in these times of
rather nervous relations with Islam.
Halfway through, a small rough road labours up the side of the gorge,
a pair of eagles circling above, to a Parque Natural interpretation
centre, where a chica maintains a lonely vigil for us, her only
visitors. A footpath ascends further, and from the top of the hill I
peer down over one of the cliffs from which (possibly) the dogs were
thrown, to catch tantalising glimpses through the swirling mists of
the traffic crawling far below.
Richard Ford, travelling this way 180 years ago, describes the passage
from Andalucía to Castile as "from an Eden to a desert". Not quite a
desert now, the high, lonely plains of Castilla la Mancha are
certainly a contrast, and we head east quickly over wide deserted
roads.
Déjà vu. Ya lo hemos visto. We have reached a stage in our Spanish
travels when, having no recollection of having visited a place, it is
yet instantly recognisable as we arrive. So with Alcaraz. The
intimate colonnaded Plaza Mayor, warm golden stones around sloping
cobbles, is unmistakable, as is the hostal on the mirador, a former
Jesuit college with an elegant interior patio. I think we came here
from Ayna a few years back: "Ice-cold in Ayna" it was in January.
But now the sun (at last!) is warm, and we stay.
Más en la próxima
Mac
Roger, please correct my Spanish whenever you like. I have only
recently started to come to grips with the subjunctive, and all the
learning round here is on a do-it-yourself basis. Perhaps I'll be a
bit less ambitious with my signings-of! Similarly, I hope you aren't
offended by my complete failure to appreciate flamenco*, and of course
I wish your daughter success in her ambitions.
*Although I really enjoyed the rendition of "Ay, mi perro" in
Almodavar's 'Volver' - but I expect that's hardly the same thing!
Roger Warwick
It was given after the Battle of the Navas de Tolosa, won by the
Christians in 1212 and an essential step in the long march of the
Recconquista, allowing the Christians to push the Moors further and
further south, deep into Andalusia.
As you rightly say, after the battle the Christians hurled the
captured "perros infieles" or unfaithful dogs off the edges of the
gorge to the river below.
I go through this pass 2 or 3 times a year on my way from Madrid to
Salobreña on the Granada coast and never fail to marvel at the
quartzite rocks, first formed in the sea millions of years ago and now
thrusting through the earth to form what now look like the tubes on a
giant church organ.
Did you see Casa Pepe on your travels? It's a famous bar located near
the mountain pass and completely decked out in the colours of the
Spanish flag. Its gimmick is to attract trade with this overly
nationalistic setup, which I suppose is completely tongue in cheek. At
least I hope so, because I've never been there but I'm told they even
have photos of Franco on the wall, taking pride of place in this
strange relic of the past.
Roger.
Roger Warwick
> the mountain pass and completely decked out in the colours of the
> Spanish flag. Its gimmick is to attract trade with this overly
> nationalistic setup, which I suppose is completely tongue in cheek. At
> least I hope so, because I've never been there but I'm told they even
> have photos of Franco on the wall, taking pride of place in this
> strange relic of the past.
Hmmm, after sending this I did some searching on Internet and it seems
it's not tongue in cheek at all. The owner claims to be a Francoist
"since the day I was born"
So, I'm glad I stayed well clear all these years.
Roger.
Mac
On 27 feb, 20:44, "Roger Warwick" <ro...@gomadrid.com> wrote:
> > Did you see Casa Pepe on your travels? It's a famous bar located near
> > the mountain pass and completely decked out in the colours of the
> > Spanish flag.
realise it's background. And it was the only place (cross fingers)
where our car was interfered with in any way.
John Salter
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Hi, Roger and Mac.
Please tell me exactly where Casa Pepe is, I have been trying to find it on the web, but I am not sure if I have found the right thing.
Regards
John
-------Original Message------- |
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Roger Warwick
I can't find an official website, but the address is :-
"Casa Pepe" Carretera N-IV, Km 243, paso de Despeñaperros
Roger.
John Salter
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Thanks Roger, Must have been passed it loads of times, Next time I go past there I am going to call.
I live in Torrox, I know Salobrena too, but I have never been to the castle there.
I remember you saying your family have a house there.
My son lives north of Granada.
By the way Andalucia day today.
Regards
John
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mike james
Mac wrote:
> Any company knowing where we go with our hire cars wouldn't let us
> anywhere near them. 40 kilometers of ruts and potholes, bumps and
> mud, bring us through the backwoods of the Sierra de Andújar.
I've been too busy to read the group for the passed few weeks so imagine
my delight at finding
so much to read on my return!
As to hire cars - Keith Floyd (yes the tv chef - who also did some
really good programs on spanish cooking)
once said, on screen, "What is the only car that can go anywhere?" His
answer after a suitable pause was "A hire car". He then drove out of
frame and into a landscape that proved just that.
mikej