San Sebastián de La Gomera

[Mac]

Jesus stands guard over San Sebastián, on a high column on a sun-
scorched hill, accompanied only by a Telefónica mast and a Vertice
Geodesico (Trig Point).. Like me, he could see the whole town laid
out below, but gazes longingly towards Tenerife, as many Gomerans have
done.

Myself, I'd rather be here. It doesn't take long to see the sights,
which are mostly concerned with Christopher Columbus, whose last
landfall this was before crossing the Atlantic, delayed (allegedly)
for several days by the Governor's widow, Beatriz de Bobadilla ( a
fascinating woman who met a bad end - look her up!). In a cool
courtyard, in front of me is a well which says "Con Este Agua se
Bautiza America, 1492" So they say............ I´ve learnt more
about Crístobal Colón and his voyages (in Spanish) in the past few
hours than I ever did before , despite having read several years ago
the biography by his hijo natural, Hernandez (not in Spanish!).

Once done with Columbus, San Sebastián is an extremely pleasant small
town and port in which to do very little. A pleasure to walk along
the promenade in the quiet of early morning as the sun creeps round
the cliff, giving its light first to Jesus and that other icon of
Spain, the Parador, on the hill opposite, one inmaculado, the other
not, being white with dark spots in traditional style. The town
centre church, wide, open, light and full of air. A beautiful park
filled with increasingly familiar subtropical trees, small birds and
prowling cats softens the centre of town, with the oldest building, la
Torre del Conde (also spotted), and in the two plazas by the
waterfront one can watch the tide of day visitors from Los Cristianos
come and go, leaving the evening quiet once again. Until, that is, an
impromptu band an choir starts up in the next street at 11PM -
possibly anticipating Christmas. I think I recognise the style.

Home tomorrow. Up at an unnatural hour to catch the early ferry and
cope with 'una huelga de guaguas' (bus strike) on Tenerife. It is
just possible that Mrs Mac may insist on a taxi. We'll see.

La Gomera. Yet another place of which to say:

¡Debo volver!

Mac


PS As we sailed away from La Gomera this morning, a perfect arco iris
(rainbow) framed the island, hidden in rainclouds. Yes, I know. I
couldn't believe it either. But I have the pictures.