Alpujarras and Granada
sue james
Stewart Fishburne
Sue
This is an extract of a trip report I filed a couple of years ago. I wish I was coming with you.
Have a good time.
Stewart
The following morning we collected our car (I forgot to mention that the hotel has a drop off point for cars which is quite easy to miss and involves another trip round quite a large number of blocks) from the drop off point and drove out of the city towards the Sierra Nevada. The road we took to the Dornajo visitors centre was very modern and simple. We had read reports of hairpin bends and cavernous drops. We didn't find them here or further up and we went all the way to the ski-resort of Pradollano (I think) and beyond to where the road rums out. Actually the road continues over the top and down into the Alpujarras at Capileira (where we going to be staying the next few nights), but is only open to authorised vehicles and when we were there it was gated and manned. There were people headed off on a walk to Mulhacen, but we didn't join them. The views were stunning, of course, but to complete the remaining 30 kilometres of our journey we had a round trip back down the mountain towards Granada, then south to Lanjaron and then back east and North to Capiliera. The road south is fast dual carriageway. The rest is narrow and winding with great views and steep drops. But I wouldn't say it was really difficult. Most of the inclines were gradual (all up, of course) and the surface was well maintained. I forgot to mention that when we arrived at the visitor centre we noticed that our car had taken quite a knock in the front (there was a hole you could see through) which could only have been done when the car was in the hotel car park. How annoying. More of that later.
Capiliera is the most northerly and highest of the three beautiful villages of the Poquiera valley. All three are worth a visit if you like small villages clinging on to dramatic mountains. We do! We had booked (through Rustic Blue) to stay at Finca los Llanos and found it to be absolutely splendid. We were only disappointed (and that only a little) by the one dinner we ate there (other nights we ate out at the Italian restaurant - but ate Spanish food).
When we got to the hotel we rang the hotel in Granada and explained how we had found the car. On reflection we should have checked the car, and maybe have been a little suspicious at the great speed the porter had loaded our cases into the boot and us into the car (the damage was only visible if you walked round the front, which we didn't need to do). The hall porter said he'd check with the drivers who would admit if they had caused the damage and ring us back later. He did, but no one had admitted anything. We held our ground. He suggested we could speak to the head of reception - Mr Alfonso - but there would be no change. We did and re-explained that there had been no incidents when the car had been in our control. He said that he would discuss it with the car rental company. So we rang the car rental company in Malaga and gave them Mr Alfonso's name and number and tried not to think anything about it for the next 5 days. Of course we had signed a 'blank' credit card slip and we thought we were on slightly thin ice so feared the worst.
Our next day we took a walk which basically started 50 yds from the hotel which traces the Acequia de los Lugares and can be extended (as we did) to the hamlet of La Cebadilla which used to be deserted but is now being repopulated by wealthy new owners (it's original purpose was involved with the building and operation of a power station -still there but now almost automated). There was a huge range of walks available to chose from with maps and guide pamphlets available in the hotel and in the tourist information centre in the village. It must be a walker's paradise. If you read "Parrot in a Pepper Tree" you will find that the author and wife take a walk past and through Capiliera and to the borreguiles. Magical. I hope we come back here some day. A further comment on the views. The sunlight on the mountains was unlike anything I've seen before. So clear and bright yet not dazzling. I wish I could describe in better. This was in the morning (in October) it was completely different later in the day.
We also took a drive further along the Alpujarras but got no further than Trevelez (the town famous for its hams. There are a number of shops, quite large in size, where every free inch of ceiling has a large cured ham hanging form it. Quite a site.
Sadly we had to leave and head on south to the coast east of Malaga.
----- Original Message -----
sue james
Roger Warwick
My parents have a house in Salobreña on the Costa Tropical, and have spent a
bit of time in the Alpujarras on daytrips. Below is what my mother had to
say.
Roger.
We have not stayed (obviously) in the Alpujarras, but the Rough Guide
recommends: Hotel La Fragua, c/Antono 4. in Trevelez, Tel 98 858 626
email...@navealia.com which has an excellent restaurant (it says here).
Lanjaron has thermal baths and spa treatments - try the Balneario on Avenida
Alpujarra, which is the main street (www.aguasdelanjaron.es) and there is no
shortage of hotels or pensiones in the town; information opposite the
balneario.
Walks
Park your car in Pampaneira (turn left into CP immediately on arrival) and
look at map in CP. Some routes are given there, on the board. Check out
the Alpujarras Museum in the left hand corner of the main square. You might
like to try a dish of patas a lo pobre - with or without meat - whilst you
are in the village.
For long walks, go up to Capileira and call in at the shop on the main
street where you will find comprehensive maps for the area.
Orgiva is, in my view, only interesting for the New Age Travellers who
congregate thee, but the Thursday market is worth stopping for. Go to the
top of th village for this.
Try Trevelez for the highest village in Spain - and some wonderful hams! A
"plato Alpujarrano" is a delight. Trevelez is (I quote the Rough Guide to
Spain) the jump off point for the High Sierra peaks, to which there is a
bona fide path; note that ascending Mulhacen from Trevelez is a full six
hours up, four hours down and you should be prepared to make an overnight
stop.
The Camino Real is a mule track that used to thread through the highest
villages and may be still passable in parts. My book recommends the
following for 'the determined'
Pitres to Mecina Fondales: 20 mins. trek, then a good hour from Ferreirola
to Busquitar
Busquitar towards Trevelez: 1 hour's trek, then 2 plus hours of road
walking.
Portugos towards Trevelez: 2 hour's trek meeting the tarmac a little beyond
the end of the Busquitar route.
The architecture of the Alpujarras is a subject worthy of a page or two!
Note the flat roofs, based on chestnut or ash beams covered with a mat of
canes or split chestnut. Stones are piled on top and the whole is covered in
launa, or grey mica. Try to get hold of "South from Granada" by Gerald
Brennan - a wonderful account of his stay in Yegen in the 1920's. And
there's also "Driving over Lemons" by Chris Stewart - a contemporary account
by a Brit who has settled in the Alpuarras and who now runs walking holidays
in the area. Try his website?
Granada
Think about buying a 'Bono Turistico' (City Pass) which gives you access to
8 of the city's monuments, including the Alhambra, Capilla Real, Catedral
and La Catuja for 18 Euros. It also include 10 bus journeys and is valid
for a week. Buy these cards from the ticket offices at the Alhambra or the
Capella Real, not from the tourist offices or order online from
www.granadatur.com or www.caja.caja-granada.es/bono. You have to pick them
up on arrival.
We have had a lovely meal after walking up the hill opposite the Alhambra;
there is a view point by the church - begin the walk back down, but look
out for a locked garden gate on the right; ring the bell and be admitted to
a little paradise with the Sierra Nevada as backdrop! On the way down, pass
through the Sacramonte area...
look out for the old Moorish baths or hammas - some are open for use and/or
visits.
Stewart Fishburne
Dear all
I promised to post a report on our holiday when we got back.
We spent 2 days in Granada, 3 in the Alpujarras and 2 around Malaga.
We
flew with my-travel-light from Birmingham into Malaga. We booked the flights a
few months in advance and got a reasonable rather than fantastic deal (actually
I think GBP 130 return is pretty cheap but the flights market in the UK is so
competitive at the moment its higher than we've paid before). We had pre-booked
a hire car through skycars, but actually with Benelux Autos and this was a short
courtesy bus ride from the airport. Again we thought GBP 89 pretty good for 7
days (but more of our experience with the car later). We drove straight to
Granada where we had a room booked at the Hotel Dauro II (also booked, like
everything else, over the Internet). It is in a pedestrianised area not far from
the town hall and was clean well equipped and to be recommended. There were
small lively tapas bars on the same street only a few doors down were we ate and
drank, but despite being close we didn't hear them in our room, even though the
room was on the front.
We had pre-booked (Internet again) tickets to the Alhambra for both our evening of arrival and the afternoon of the following day. Both cost 17.6 Euro (16 Euro plus a 10% handling fee) per person, even though the evening visit is limited to the Nasrid Palace (the generalife and the Alcazaba are not open at night). After an ordinary meal in Plaza Nueva we walked up. Quite steep but not too difficult. There are many (mini) buses and we could have caught one (we did the following day) but we like to walk and explore. All tickets need to be collected from the ticket office, which we didn't think was signed very well and is quite a long way from the Nasrid Palaces. We were lucky that we'd left ourselves lots of time (in fact when we got to the 'square' in front of the entrance to the Alcazaba we were the only people there. No other tourists, no officials. Nothing except us and a few wild cats. It was a little romantic and a little spooky. Having collected the tickets we returned to the Nasrid palaces and waited for opening time. There weren't many people and of course we gained excellent views because of this. This was a considerable plus and the night lighting definitely gave a different perspective than the stark sun or shade one gets in the daytime. We really enjoyed the space and freedom to wander. There are too many guidebooks for me to compete, so I wont. Afterwards (and this was probably no more than an hour) we wandered back down into the town and had a glass or two of something with the customary free tapa (is tapa the singular of tapas, or is tapas singular in it's own right?) at the bar across the street. We were surprised to find our hotel locked up for the night when we returned at 00.10. Fortunately there was a night porter so no problem!
The following day we walked round the Albazin following recommended routes from the Michelin Green Guide. We arrived at the viewing point outside San Nicholas church mid-morning but it was still quiet and populated, it seemed, mainly by locals. There was a young chap playing the guitar quite well and we stopped to enjoy the music and the view. Splendid! Our route brought us back to Plaza Nueva so Joyce had an hour looking at shoes (if you've read my trip report before you may remember Joyce's love affair with shoes), whilst I found a bench to sit and read. After a sandwich lunch it was time to head back to the Alhambra. Our ticket was valid form 1400 with a 1600-1630 entrance to the Nasrid Palace (these were enforced as far as we could tell - some people were turned away even though they had tickets, so I presume they must have been for a different time). We walked round the generalife and the Alcazaba in relative quiet (perhaps the tour groups were having lunch) and returned to the Nasrid Palace at 1620. Quite a queue had formed, so we were one of the later entrants. Despite that it wasn't as crowded as I expected until the tour groups came. I can only assume they are allowed in as they choose, but it did become quite crowded. Of course this was only a minor distraction as the buildings and gardens and decorations do retain their beauty. It would just have been nice to see them with fewer people in. It's the cross any exceptional site has to bear, I suppose.
That evening we were tired so had a meal across the street. I had an Alpujarran plate, which comprised Patatas a la Pobres (poor man's potatoes), fried egg, black pudding, red pepper sausage and fried veal fillets. You can get a version just about everywhere, it seemed. We particularly wanted to try the Patatas as they greatly amused us in Chris Stewart's book "Driving over Lemons". The follow-up "A Parrot in a Pepper Tree" was even better, to my mind.
The following morning we collected our car (I forgot to mention that the hotel has a drop off point for cars which is quite easy to miss and involves another trip round quite a large number of blocks) from the drop off point and drove out of the city towards the Sierra Nevada. The road we took to the Dornajo visitors centre was very modern and simple. We had read reports of hairpin bends and cavernous drops. We didn't find them here or further up and we went all the way to the ski-resort of Pradollano (I think) and beyond to where the road rums out. Actually the road continues over the top and down into the Alpujarras at Capileira (where we going to be staying the next few nights), but is only open to authorised vehicles and when we were there it was gated and manned. There were people headed off on a walk to Mulhacen, but we didn't join them. The views were stunning, of course, but to complete the remaining 30 kilometres of our journey we had a round trip back down the mountain towards Granada, then south to Lanjaron and then back east and North to Capiliera. The road south is fast dual carriageway. The rest is narrow and winding with great views and steep drops. But I wouldn't say it was really difficult. Most of the inclines were gradual (all up, of course) and the surface was well maintained. I forgot to mention that when we arrived at the visitor centre we noticed that our car had taken quite a knock in the front (there was a hole you could see through) which could only have been done when the car was in the hotel car park. How annoying. More of that later.
Capiliera is the most northerly and highest of the three beautiful villages of the Poquiera valley. All three are worth a visit if you like small villages clinging on to dramatic mountains. We do! We had booked (through Rustic Blue) to stay at Finca los Llanos and found it to be absolutely splendid. We were only disappointed (and that only a little) by the one dinner we ate there (other nights we ate out at the Italian restaurant - but ate Spanish food).
When we got to the hotel we rang the hotel in Granada and explained how we had found the car. On reflection we should have checked the car, and maybe have been a little suspicious at the great speed the porter had loaded our cases into the boot and us into the car (the damage was only visible if you walked round the front, which we didn't need to do). The hall porter said he'd check with the drivers who would admit if they had caused the damage and ring us back later. He did, but no one had admitted anything. We held our ground. He suggested we could speak to the head of reception - Mr Alfonso - but there would be no change. We did and re-explained that there had been no incidents when the car had been in our control. He said that he would discuss it with the car rental company. So we rang the car rental company in Malaga and gave them Mr Alfonso's name and number and tried not to think anything about it for the next 5 days. Of course we had signed a 'blank' credit card slip and we thought we were on slightly thin ice so feared the worst.
Our next day we took a walk which basically started 50 yds from the hotel which traces the Acequia de los Lugares and can be extended (as we did) to the hamlet of La Cebadilla which used to be deserted but is now being repopulated by wealthy new owners (it's original purpose was involved with the building and operation of a power station -still there but now almost automated). There was a huge range of walks available to chose from with maps and guide pamphlets available in the hotel and in the tourist information centre in the village. It must be a walker's paradise. If you read "Parrot in a Pepper Tree" you will find that the author and wife take a walk past and through Capiliera and to the borreguiles. Magical. I hope we come back here some day. A further comment on the views. The sunlight on the mountains was unlike anything I've seen before. So clear and bright yet not dazzling. I wish I could describe in better. This was in the morning (in October) it was completely different later in the day.
We also took a drive further along the Alpujarras but got no further than Trevelez (the town famous for its hams. There are a number of shops, quite large in size, where every free inch of ceiling has a large cured ham hanging form it. Quite a site.
Sadly we had to leave and head on south to the coast east of Malaga. We visited the Cueva de Nerja and were much impressed. I was surprised it wasn't cold underground. It must be magical to see the ballet in the tiny cleared space with the huge rock formations in the background. Well worth a visit. We decided to have a look at Frigillana, a well renowned village above Nerja. It was absolutely mobbed and the traffic was dreadful. So much so that we decided not to go in to the centre of the village and continue on the road to Torrox. Mistake! What looks like an inch on the map took almost an hour on a 'road' that was close to a track (the sort where you know you've gone too far only after it's too late to turn back). We were much relieved when we got back to the coast road (which is motorway quality at this point).
Our hotel for the next two nights was Molino de Santillan in the mountains above Rincon de la Victoria. Whilst we had got a little used to Spanish roads nothing had prepared us for the track to this hotel. It was just over a kilometre and it really needed a 4-wheel-drive vehicle. Our little hire car was thrown every which way. It is quite a sumptuous hotel but at more than twice the price for a similar room in Capiliera we were a little disappointed. Dinner was good, though although again not cheap. And the packs of (seemingly) wild dogs roaming the countryside, kept at bay only by the hotel's own St Bernards could put you off. But it was quiet and an ideal place for a retreat.
The following day we decided to visit the rock formation at El Chorro and then the Natural Parque de El Torcal. Looking at the map it seems quiet sensible to do these both in one round trip. It is, but it is quite a long day. Of the two, El Torcal is by far the more impressive. El Chorro is a gorge, which has a tiny iron bridge high up the rocks over a narrow river-cut channel. Unfortunately it is no longer possible to get to this point and whilst the gorge is quite a site, the best view is no longer attainable. By contrast it would be possible to walk for several miles around the exposed rock formations of El Torcal. It is a little off the beaten track, but there were quite a lot of people there when were and this somehow created a splendid atmosphere. There are wild goats (I think) living in the rocks which were clearly visible to we tourists.
We have friends who live in 'Mijas Costa' (not Mijas Pueblo, which is further up the mountain) and we had arranged to meet up. As we hadn't been to this coast before we decided to have a look at Puerto Banus. Not our sort of place at all (I think we knew this in advance, really). Some incredibly large 'yachts' (more like small ocean liners), 'flash' cars and up-market designer clothes, but all a bit nouveau riche. The Brits amongst you might know what I mean when I say that we saw Jeremy Beadle holding court on one street corner. If you are from North America you don't want to know what Jeremy Beadle is all about!
After a pleasant meal we headed off to the airport and to return the car. No problems, no questions, no extra charges and my signed 'open' credit card slip returned. Phew! Thank you Mr Alfonso, whatever you did.
And so another successful Spanish holiday comes to an end. There will always be next year.
Thanks to everyone who helped us with the planning of this trip, including Tom S, Tom J, Sue, Lester and Claudia amongst many.
Stewart and Joyce
Mac
Mac
Mac
Although we've not been in the Alpujarras, your post prompted me to do
a little enquiry about the area (this always happens!), and I
discovered a book set in the 1920s and 30s in the village of Yegen,
written by Gerald Brenan, who apparently is better known in Spain than
his native UK.
I promptly bought it (from Amazon). The area had only just started to
be reachable by road, and is a fascinating account of life in this
remote area before the Civil War.
¡Buen viaje!
Mac
LesterOR
Here is my very brief trip report extract on Hotel Americas. The final
sentence is really what matters -- it is great to stay there if you
don't care to explore Granada at night. What would really make the
hotel a jewel is if they kept Generalife open until midnight for
patrons of Americas and the Parador!
Lester
We pushed on to Granada, arriving at dark, and checked in at the Hotel
America on the "main street" of the Alhambra (€100 per night).
Although the hotel is only 100 years old, it feels much older. Someone
had carved Arabic lettering into the solid wood beam in our room,
adding to the ambience. Our room overlooked the grape vines covering
the dining patio - because the hotel serves no dinner, we had no
evening noise from the restaurant, but we did get a little noise from
breakfast preparations in the morning. The beds were mushy and
squeaky, but tolerable. We ate a good light dinner at the Parador,
grateful to be spending half the room cost to stay at the Hotel
America.
I had never stayed on the grounds before, and it offers the good and
the bad - such peaceful, easy access to the Alhambra and Generalife,
the mere thought of it sends me into a romantic swoon - but it's an
extra chore to explore the city proper, especially for meals or any
night-time activities.
sue james
Glad you discovered and are enjoying Gerald Brennan's "South from Granada" -
which Roger's Mum also recommended in her email.
I originally read it around the time of my first trip to Andalucia in 1988
and I suppose it's part of the reason we've being going back to Spain ever
since. It strikes me as very surprising that we are still planning our very
first visit to the Alpujarras and that it has taken us almost 20 years to
revisit Granada. We did drive up into the Sierra Nevada on that first trip
but both husband Mike and son Sam (only 4 at the time) both complained of
altitude sickness which might be port of the reason for not returning to the
area in the meantime.
Anyway thanks for reminding me that I must re-read that book.
Sue
sue james
Please pass on my thanks to your mother for such great advice.
We'll definitely check out the Alpujarras Museum and as for walks will avoid
the ascent of Mulhacen from Trevelez - I know from experience that we take
up to 50% more time than the guidebooks allow for a walk - a combination of
dawdling, stopping to look at rocks, flowers, birds and to take photos.
The advice on Granada makes me wish our trip was going to be longer - but in
fact all we are planning is a short mid-week break within a longer stop in
the Levante area of Almeria.
If it proves successful we may well repeat the formula so all the advice
will be filed away for future reference.
Sue
sue james
Tom Schweich
Capileira in mid-April, 2003. My trip report starts at about:
http://www.schweich.com/fn2003.html#Para20030417080
We stayed four nights at Finca Las Llanos which we found through
Rustic-Blue. Both establishments were "as described." On one day we
went to a local products fair in Orgiva that we enjoyed. The second
day, we walked up Barranco del Poqueira, and then back down the road.
And the third day, my son-in-law and took a little more free-form hike
on one of the ridges called Loma de los Palominicas. It was very
enjoyable. However, mid-April was a little bit early in the season, as
we had rain mixed with a little bit of snow in Capileira each morning,
and only the earliest wildflowers were out. Depending upon your
interests, or your desires for cool weather hiking, I might suggest
staying at one of the lower elevation towns in early April.
sue james wrote:
--
Tom Schweich ta...@schweich.com
http://www.schweich.com
janeliv
near to Lanjaron, often described as the gateway to the Alpujarra. We
have done lots of walking around the area, both in the mountains and at
a lower level. We use a hotel in Lanjaron, which offers great vaulue
for money, and very friendly service. Get in touch if you would like
to know more.