Samsung Vrf Thermostat Manual
Lorna Schildt
I recently purchased a NQ5B5763DBS as a second oven. When using any of the oven functions it never actually reaches the set temp. If i put it to 180c when the oven says it is ready its actually at 125c. 30 min later it hits 160, the hottest it will get. If I turn up the heat it gets a bit hotter but it is not linear: 200c gets to 165ish and again says it is at temp when it is only at 125c.
The other Samsung oven I have is a dual flex and the oven thermostat that I am using shows exactly what the oven shows as the temp, so I believe that the thermostat is correct. This oven is definitely not hot enough, i have now had 2 roast dinners almost ruined because it does not cook as expected.
Is this how the oven is expected to work, is it mainly a microwave and not reliable as an oven? What else could be at fault? I am extremely frustrated with it as my Dual flex oven is great but this one is almost useless.
@Members_1J68S6L: When manually selecting a cooking mode, a default temperature is assigned to each mode e.g. Convection default temp = 160 degrees Celsius. To manually adjust the temperature turn the dial until the desired temperature is displayed on the panel, then press the dial itself to confirm. For further clarity, please refer to pages 20-21 of the user manual via the link below.
I feel your frustration. I have a Dual Flex NV7B5740TAS which I have had nearly a year. Only recently started to really use oven fully as have used separate air fryer most of time. Son has used it for large pizza. He now thinks he likes roast dinners so this is now a reason for full use. Oven does not reach indicated temp. cannot cook roasts, Yorkshires, cakes etc all spoiling as temperature is not as indicated. 20-30 degrees out. too low.
Have had engineer in, oven checked, 'no problem' but did agree to change thermostats. No better. He said Samsung say when oven chimes it is at end of warm up but you must wait further time for further heating up, still doesn't get any hotter. They claim it is part of energy saving. It doesn't save energy if it is not correct temperature and it spoils your food. I am starting to think it is not of merchantable quality in it's present state.
Sorry to hear you are experiencing same problem. I sent a reply to Samsung after they 'closed' my repair. I told them it was not improved. In my mind the query is still unresolved. These ovens are not reaching correct temperature. I do not think they would keep the ovens if they were used on 'The Great British Bake off'
What can we do, we have a large international company that does not wish to maintain its reputation, and seems to be deaf to our requests for help. Would a campaign on Social Media help? How many more owners are there out there with the same issues. I have this week taken pictures of unevenly baked muffins after guesswork with temperatures. How do we raise the profile of this? Any ideas?
The installer indicates that he set the Samsung LCD controller as the thermostat. I managed to organize all the water law stuff, etc. It is getting warm in the house now. Not many problems there. The cold days I had a COP of 3 on average, now approaching 4. So that seems to be more or less "in control".
These values seem to behave similarly to the ones described in the manual on page 28. The standard temperature is set to "indoor". The Samsung LCD controller gives the right indoor temperature in the room (double-checked with some other devices in the same room).
The issue: the controller triggers based on the ambient temperature: if the room is getting below 20C, it starts the heat pump to heat the radiators following the water law (WC). However, it keeps on doing this and does not seem to "stop" the heat pump once it reaches the required temperature... The above values try to reduce hysteresis, but, also, option 1 does not trigger an "off". I first thought it had something to do with the difference that needs to be larger than a threshold value (Indoor Zone option -> Temperature unit -> 0.1/0.5/1, but that seems incorrect, more for setting the temperature).
My reasoning now is that the "Use (signal on/off) or WL interlink off" does not trigger the signal off. But it stops because of the "WL interlink off"... I have no idea what the WL interlink is. My best guess now is that it has to do with #4052, the target deltaT, as usually, in the course of the afternoon, with warmer temperatures, the heat pump is triggered to stop. My eye also fell to #4061 for "zone control", no idea what this is...
I hope you've already resolved the issue but it is because the water law triggered before thermostat signal on/off. This happens if the pump is not able to expel the heat anymore to the water because dT difference is getting smaller and dT not satisfied. So usually this happen in warmer days. You need to balance the pump, heating curves that the pump can work as long as possible and in warmer days it heat and then stop for a while. Also don't know if you have PWM pump but it's absolutely crucial for this HP to work optimally. Before I've used water law only and when there was +5C and more outside the pump has cycled like crazy. Basically it was on for 5 minutes and off for 3 minutes and round and round again. It was not acceptable so I've tuned some stuff - especially switched to indoor temperature control and now it heats and then turn off for hour or two. What absolutely don't like and don't understand why SAMSUNG is using 1.0C hysteresis and it's not possible to customize to your own. So when I set 22C it heats up to 23C and then cool down to 22C. 0.5C hysteresis would be much better for comfort.
@ssearles check your door gaskets. When ice build-up is problematic there's normally one of two things (or both) that cause it if the defrost function is working properly: bad door gaskets or poor door management (leaving them open or cracked). If you aren't leaving it open or cracked, check that the rubber gaskets are not degraded. Check for warps or splits around the entire door. Make sure that it seats properly when closed with no gaps. Also consider putting a dab of silicone where the copper lines come into the box, as that could be a source of infiltration.
Thanks! Will check both. Per my other note below, I had the unit really dry yesterday with a hair dryer and observed within minutes the formation of condensation and icicles on the low points of the copper tubes...possibly infiltration from the entry point, though the door was open quite a bit for the clean-out process. There is for sure a pattern where the icing is worse in the summer months where the ambient humidity is higher, which might support the theory on the doors not fully sealing.
Your heater is fine, no ice near it and the hi limit is attached so we know it is good as well. If it were door gaskets you would have condensation on the walls and shelves before it made it to the evaporator.
Replace the sensor, it is a cheap attempt (DA32-10104N) before going to the control (DA94-02679D), i am not 100% sure but i want to say they had to increase the defrost times and there is not a way to do that yourself but have to have a new board with the new programing.
iFixit Staff Suggestion: View the freezer ice building up wiki for other tips regarding evaporator frost buildup. Some fridges have had anywhere from service bulletins to class action lawsuits about this issue.
Are you an appliance technician? Just digging around and saw your comment about just replacing the evaporator cover DA97-12608A on a Samsung French door (RF23HCEDBSR/AA version 8). Starting to believe that could be my problem since its not the defrost sensor or defrost heater (both tested ok with ohm meter) and my drains are not dirty and working and have been replaced with the newer Samsung drains. I don't have a bigger heater clip installed in the drain, but I have never had water in the bottom of my refrigerator, just evaporator icing hitting the fan. Does that gasket on the DA97-12608A have to be in almost perfect shape to prevent evaporator freeze ups? Mine was slightly compressed in one area from wires, but the Styrofoam is in solid shape. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
Ive already replaced my back panel and within 1 1/2 yrs it is doing the same thing. Im thinking samsung dropped the ball on this fridge somewhere, the ice maker quit working as well. These french door bottom freezer samsung units are garbage
We have the same experience. The tech said there is a crack in the back board. Repair for this is a kit with epoxy and will cost about 400$ to fix. WTF. Ice maker is also an on off problem as well. Samsung should stand behind its products regardless of warranty. They know these are problematic parts and should make new ones and not install the same broken parts
I've had the same problem with my Samsung fridge for years now. Before it was every 6 months, now it's every 6 weeks. When it first started I tried to get Samsung to help and got nowhere. They should be ashamed of these fridges and their shoddy customer service. I will never buy another Samsung appliance.
The error code list and meanings are on the next page in the service manual. Do not be confused by the model number of the refrigerator at the top of the pages as the manual is also for your model. - see page 1.
Low refrigerant usually results in cooling problems e.g. freezer/refrigerator too warm not ice build up. Maybe check for any oily residues on the condenser coils and on or under the compressor. There is a special oil mixed in with the refrigerant to lubricate the compressor and if there is a leak then the refrigerant will escape to the air undetected but the oil may leave a trace. Although after all this time if there was a leak the refrigerant should have all been gone by now ;-)
Did the technician measure the low and high side pressures of the sealed system? The pressures will indicate if the amount of refrigerant is correct and also if there are any restrictions in the sealed system. Sometimes a restriction in the system can cause ice build up on the other side of the restriction in the refrigerant flow path.
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