Novice seeking advice for visiting Botswana

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zava

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May 23, 2024, 4:15:01 AMMay 23
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Hello T4Africans,
after quite some solo travelling to Northern Africa countries spanning from Morocco to Libya, though Algeria and Tunisia, ever more forced into the most remote areas by the expansion of big roads and goudron, I am daring to plan my first trip to Botswana.

Plan is to rent a well equipped 4x4 and travel alone (although I wish I had a freind couple for a second car alongside), mostly using campsites, seeing just a few places at slow pace for a hopefully FIRST travel to this great region.

I am seeking advice on a few main feats that I seem to understand after reading a lot of material (most of which of T4A origin...).

1) How does one really survive in a place where lions and hyenas share the water facilities with you? Seriously, how does it work? (I am assuming it does work... ;)

2) I got the impression that a thorough planning and full booking is somewhat mandatory for travelling Botswana, and that it's next to impossible to just go there and travel around without a pre-reserved plan, especially in August. Is this true and real? (I am not used to much planning, especially because I usually go to places where there is NOTHING to book in advance... or nothing at all). But this doesn't seem the case in Botswana, where a) you must stay at campsites and b) most of them are only available to tour operators and c) must be booked one year ahead...

I have a dozen more questions, but these two open up my (unrealistic?) planning for this august!

So if anybody in the know will be willing to adopt a novice, I will greatly appreciate!

Cheers,
Luca

Lizette Swart

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May 23, 2024, 6:37:15 AMMay 23
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Luca, I believe some of the forum members are struggling to reply to you - I am sending this mail to see if they can reply to me instead!

Regards/Groete

Lizette

Lizette Swart



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grahambowring2

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May 23, 2024, 7:16:16 AMMay 23
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Have deleted Luca's original post from this note as it somehow makes my email bounce... Have just pasted his text below. Fingers crossed...
‐------------

Luca, I'm also an expat but lived in Joburg for a period 20 years ago & have made over a dozen 10 - 14 day trips into Bots.

I think Bots is an easy place to visit if you are well prepared. Likely very easy vs north Africa but I cannot compare. Between this forum & the Overland forum you'll find most of the answers you need.   

A few initial thoughts:

T4A is your best friend. Map coverage is superb & the suggested trip travel times can be trusted. Do not rely on Google maps for navigation!

I like to start planning 12 -18 mths in advance as it makes it much easier. Many camp sites & rental 4WD are booked out 6 - 12 mths in advance. 

Bush camping is not the norm.  Will work in some places but not the norm. 

Much easier to make camp reservations via a booking agency.  ( Most camp sites are managed by independent groups - generally headquartered in Maun - & co-ordination between them is poor. Booking independently will also mean many separate payments, some in Pula, some in Rand, some in US$ or Euro. Bank fees quickly get out of control. 

My most recent two trips were booked via Bushtrackers in Maun & that worked well.  (Email bwreser...@bushtrackers.com or
The booking agents can help you fine tune an itinerary and they charge very very little.

I prefer to rent a vehicle in Joburg & drive north. I've rented Toyota Hilux from Bushtrackers in Maun & are would do so again. Well equipped near new vehicles & great customer service from Heather. Email in...@bushtrackers.com 

Take binoculars & a decent camera with a long lens.

Supermarkets in major towns are fair to good. Shops in small towns & villages are very basic.

Get a local Bots SIM card on arrival, they are cheap & wi-fi is rare.  WhatsApp is endemic, everyone uses it to communicate. Assume no cell coverage outside major towns - you will be pleasantly surprised if you do so.

The Bots people are typically very kind & welcoming. Bots is generally very safe - sure someone will steal your wallet if you leave it on the bar but very unlikely that someone will stick you up to take it. 

Regards, Graham

PS  
Yes, you will get close to wildlife but lions etc won't bother you if you're inside your vehicle or roof top tent.  Water from taps in villages & towns is generally OK to drink. May not taste great but won't hurt you.


Graham B

≈===========

Andreas Cierpka

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May 23, 2024, 7:17:33 AMMay 23
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See my response below


Andreas Cierpka
Heinrich-Böll-Str 12
85386 Eching bei Freising



Am 23.05.2024 um 12:37 schrieb Lizette Swart <liz...@tracks4africa.co.za>:


Luca, I believe some of the forum members are struggling to reply to you - I am sending this mail to see if they can reply to me instead!

Regards/Groete

Lizette

Lizette Swart



On Thu, 23 May 2024 at 10:15, zava <za...@visualinspections.it> wrote:
Hello T4Africans,
after quite some solo travelling to Northern Africa countries spanning from Morocco to Libya, though Algeria and Tunisia, ever more forced into the most remote areas by the expansion of big roads and goudron, I am daring to plan my first trip to Botswana.

Plan is to rent a well equipped 4x4 and travel alone (although I wish I had a freind couple for a second car alongside), mostly using campsites, seeing just a few places at slow pace for a hopefully FIRST travel to this great region.

You might have the problem already that most of the rental companies are low on capacity 


I am seeking advice on a few main feats that I seem to understand after reading a lot of material (most of which of T4A origin...).

1) How does one really survive in a place where lions and hyenas share the water facilities with you? Seriously, how does it work? (I am assuming it does work... ;)

Yes it works! Beside Mabuasehube and maybe Central Kalahari I don’t know any place where you share. Other campsites have a different style of facilities. But this doesn’t mean on the way and back you don’t encounter wildlife. So no walking in the dark.


2) I got the impression that a thorough planning and full booking is somewhat mandatory for travelling Botswana, and that it's next to impossible to just go there and travel around without a pre-reserved plan, especially in August. Is this true and real? (I am not used to much planning, especially because I usually go to places where there is NOTHING to book in advance... or nothing at all). But this doesn't seem the case in Botswana, where a) you must stay at campsites and b) most of them are only available to tour operators and c) must be booked one year ahead...

It is about networking … I follow a female solo driver as well and she does exactly what you are looking for. Search for someone willing to share.

I have a dozen more questions, but these two open up my (unrealistic?) planning for this august!

So if anybody in the know will be willing to adopt a novice, I will greatly appreciate!

Cheers,
Luca

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grahambowring2

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May 23, 2024, 7:31:07 AMMay 23
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I don't think the wildlife will bother you if you take care but I would not wander around after dark. And during the day you should be well aware of your surroundings & not walk too far from your camp.

I took this pic in Magotho Community Camp (20km from Moremi North Gate) last Sept. Shared the pic with two very nervous Swedish travellers and I suspect they in turn shared it with many friends & family! ( They were hiding behind the LandCruiser.)

I've had a similar experience myself and my belief is the tourists were OK as the elephants did not feel threatened. The elephants chose to walk close by the camp and the people didn't make any noise or sudden movements. If alternatively you decided to walk toward & approach elephants this close on foot I think you would be mince meat!


Graham B


Ellie & LandCruiser.jpg

Aubrey

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May 23, 2024, 9:00:44 AMMay 23
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Few interesting bits that may be overlooked:-

 

  • When Landing at OR Thambo, get a SA SIM at the airport.  There is a process called RICA to validate and activate and at OR, you flight tickets and passport are sufficient. In normal commercial areas, may be a challenge. Get a Vodacom or a MTN SIM and load data as well.  Alternatives are CellC (not very good in rural area)  and Telkom (bad to very bad in rural areas)
  • Gets Bots SIM as soon as you cross border and load airtime and data.
  • Even if not compulsory … get a yellow card with every single inoculation option you can. Tetanus, rabies, cholera and all the standard ones as a minimum.  You will not enjoy our rural medical facilities.
  • Don’t even consider international roaming on your foreign SIM ….. your data will cost way more than all your fuel.
  • Have USD in cash as an emergency stash …… nothing bigger than USD20’s and I would suggest USD 500 for 2 people.
  • VISA and MC accepted in most major commercial areas (Avoid AMEX and Diners as few merchants accept them)
  • Draw cash at ATM’s with your VISA or MC as rates are better than at money exchanges. Keep your slips if you need to change currency back to USD.
  • Bring enough memory cards for your cameras. Freely available in local cities but not so much in rural areas.
  • Major areas will accept (mostly) VISA and MC for fuel. Always have cash (local)  at hand in rural areas as  1) they don’t accept CC’s or 2) network down and card machines won’t work
  • Power in Bots and SA  - 230V 50Hz. Bots is 13A UK plug and SA is old 15A UK plug. If needed, get an adaptor at OR Thambo for EU plugs.
  • Don’t drink tap water in SA or Bots (don’t trust the locals as we have some resistance) unless you want a liquid weight loss program. Bottled water all the way and do consider a Lifestraw filter (or similar) as a backup. (Plan on 4.5l of water per person per day minimum when camping)
  • Even if winter, wear sunblock and a hat …… you will turn a pale pink in record time if you don’t. (If you do ……. post photos, us Africans love a good laugh)
  • Always adhere to speed limits in especially in villages ….. Bots will issue spot fines and you will pay right there and receive a receipt.
  • Follow rules on meat transport …….. Francistown has some of the best beef in the world and well stocked shops.
  • Don’t give kids sweets even if they ask …… dentists are few and far between. Rather consider pens and notebooks as small gifts.
  • Don’t drive after dark unless a life and death situation.
  • The animals you encounter have not seen any Disney movies. Be very cautious as they will hurt you and most can and will kill you. Yes…even  Bambi!!
  • Don’t break trees for wood. You will find bundles of wood for sale next to the road. Support local and protect our nature.
  • Make triple sure all fires are extinguished before you leave ….. the bush burns really well, and you could end up in jail.
  • Stay on the road or tracks with your vehicle ….. you are crossing pristine nature, and we like to keep it that way. You will get badly stuck at some so ensure you know basic recovery skills.… and send photos.
  • Take a suitable bag and transport all rubbish out to a collection point.
  • Both Bots and SA drive on the left-hand side of the road………steering wheel on right hand side. And we drive badly so be cautious ……. You will understand once you are here.
  • Be polite to all officials – You will forget only once, and you will spend a very long time explaining your actions.
  • Don’t pay bribes. If you are slow to grasp this ……. Remember, don’t pay bribes although you do look like  a mobile cash machine and most of us Africans so likely we will try our luck at some time😊
  • Get the correct international drivers license for both SA and Bots ……… avoid some nasty,  over eager cop making a scene.
  • English is widely spoken in Bots and SA, even in rural areas.
  • Take bug spray for humans……..  your presence is an invitation for bugs to come and taste foreign cuisine.
  • Our snakes mostly have a low tolerance for idiots …. don’t be one as most snakes you will find are highly venomous. Seek medical attention immediately if bitten.
  • Avoid stray dogs or any animals that approach you, we do have rabies.
  • Be careful with dry wood and scorpions …… entertain yourself and bring a UV torch.
  •  Ensure a good torch (and a good headlamp).  If you have rechargeable batteries, consider a unit that can charge in your vehicle 12V socket.  Maybe get a 12V USB charger for cell phones in the car.  AA and AAA batteries freely available in major cities.

 

But do have fun 😊

 

Kind regards

 

Aubrey

grahambowring2

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May 23, 2024, 6:39:06 PMMay 23
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Some great advice there...  only point I'd differ on is I've never had an issue drinking Bots tap water. But it sometimes tastes awful! ( Last trip I resorted to adding Beroccas if it tasted bad.)



Graham B



-------- Original message --------
From: Aubrey <aubrey....@gmail.com>
Date: 23/5/24 11:00 pm (GMT+10:00)
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johan de jager

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May 24, 2024, 2:13:37 AMMay 24
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Good morning

 

A very handy alternative for this different sim cards is an app called Airola.

 

One download it on your phone and it is basically a universal e-sim card that can be used in different countries anywhere in the world. It can be for specific countries or regions and you can specify the period you need it like a week or month.  You need to buy the data for that area before entry, but you can top up afterwards while in the region/country.

 

I have used it in Europe, Botswana and India with no hassles.

 

Try it out, you may be pleasantly surprised.

 

Johan de Jager

S & C Fleming

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May 24, 2024, 2:22:38 AMMay 24
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I have used Airolo in South Africa twice now and it worked very well.  I think I saw a complaint from someone that if you leave the country and then go back in you lose any credit on the card but you can top up with various amounts for various time periods - the validity period starts when the eSim connects to the supported network. 

For the convenience it is worth it, but you do need a phone that can use an eSim.  The SA card uses the Vodacom network.

Carrol Fleming

PageSorcerer

Web Design ~ Web Hosting ~ Web Maintenance

www.pagesorcerer.com


From: tracks...@googlegroups.com <tracks...@googlegroups.com> on behalf of johan de jager <jo...@jdejager.co.za>
Sent: 24 May 2024 08:13
To: 'grahambowring2' <grahamb...@gmail.com>; 'T4A Forum' <tracks...@googlegroups.com>

Aubrey

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May 24, 2024, 2:27:24 AMMay 24
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Graham, on tap water, so do I but the risk vs reward in this drinking game is skewed …… having a stomach incident is a rather negative experience when your best option is a long drop ….that is why I suggest the LifeStraw as a backup. I have travelled across Africa since 1996 and I still use a Katadyn  filter (now 26 years old) and never had an issue……… of course a Life Saver jerry can is the dream but cannot justify ZAR  8500 with my infrequent travels https://venturegear.co.za/product/lifesaver-jerry-can/

 

Kind regards

 

Aubrey Moore

 

C 082 654 5858

scksflem

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May 24, 2024, 2:28:51 AMMay 24
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Adding to this you can get an Africa Airolo eSim that covers SA and Botswana.
Message has been deleted

Aubrey

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May 24, 2024, 2:38:52 AMMay 24
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>Adding to this you can get an Africa Airolo eSim that covers SA and Botswana.

 

Bit pricey …. but SA and Botswana individual Airola data rates about 25% more than actually getting a local SIM, so not bad at all

.

image001.png

grahambowring2

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May 24, 2024, 2:42:33 AMMay 24
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My Samsung S10 can't use an eSim but even if it did why spend that much when a local SIM costs peanuts  & takes a couple of minutes to swap???

Graham B


-------- Original message --------
From: Aubrey <aubrey....@gmail.com>
Date: 24/5/24 4:38 pm (GMT+10:00)
To: 'scksflem' <scks...@gmail.com>, 'Tracks4Africa' <tracks...@googlegroups.com>
Subject: RE: [T4A] Novice seeking advice for visiting Botswana

 

>Adding to this you can get an Africa Airolo eSim that covers SA and Botswana.

 

Bit pricey …. but SA and Botswana individual Airola data rates about 25% more than actually getting a local SIM, so not bad at all

.

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A.M. Butzelaar

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May 24, 2024, 3:16:29 AMMay 24
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Or take an old phone with. Put lical Sim in it and use it as a hot spot

scksflem

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May 24, 2024, 3:17:50 AMMay 24
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The airports rip you off because they are the only place you can RICA easily and you only have a phone once you have purchased the sim and, if you are lucky they activate it immediately.  I had kids at boarding school in SA and went backwards and forwards for years, I tried every method available.  My oldest daughter now lives in SA and if the authorities check she probably has a highly suspicious number of sims registered to her as they all expire after x months of no use.  I now top up my Airolo before I leave home and have a working sim as I land with no queue at a cell outlet in OR Tambo.  For me personally, the convenience is worth it.

Botswana, Namibia and Mozambique are all a different story, you can buy a sim at the border, pop it into your phone and off you go - at least that was the case the last time I travelled there, not sure if they are doing the registering bit now.

Carrol

grahambowring2

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May 24, 2024, 3:25:34 AMMay 24
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Understand, the time saving at OR Tambo could be significant. But not if its US$59...

Overland Dreams (Pty) Ltd.

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May 24, 2024, 3:39:07 AMMay 24
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Hello, 

For South Africa I’ve been using a vodacom prepaid SIM for many years and it was never disabled even when not in use for more than 12 months. Only the balance is lost when I leave. 
And I’ve never experienced queues at OR Tambo vodacom shop. Roaming in Europe works well. In neighbouring countries in most cases it doesn’t. 
So I get additional SIMs if needed. 

Annemarie 
 

Von: tracks...@googlegroups.com <tracks...@googlegroups.com> im Auftrag von grahambowring2 <grahamb...@gmail.com>
Gesendet: Freitag, Mai 24, 2024 9:25 AM
An: scksflem <scks...@gmail.com>; Tracks4Africa <tracks...@googlegroups.com>
Betreff: Re: [T4A] Novice seeking advice for visiting Botswana
 

S & C Fleming

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May 24, 2024, 3:40:54 AMMay 24
to grahambowring2, Tracks4Africa
Just checked the top up for my card and it's 3Gb for 30 days in SA is $11, 5Gb is $15.50.

I'm ok with that 

Steve Burnett

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May 24, 2024, 3:49:48 AMMay 24
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Morning All

 

We are travelling to Mana Pools in August and are looking for camping options (5 vehicles) near the Marongora Parks Board offices, does anyone have any suggestions? We would like to get into the park as early as possible on our first day.

 

Regards

Steve Burnett

 

 

Lizette Swart

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May 24, 2024, 3:56:28 AMMay 24
to Steve Burnett, Tracks4Africa
Hi Steve,

There is actually a campsite at the Marongora office itself: https://tracks4africa.co.za/listings/item/w632813/marongora-zimparks-campsite/

Very basic but serves the purpose for an overnight stop, to enter the park early the next morning.

Regards/Groete

Lizette

Lizette Swart


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Luca Zava

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May 25, 2024, 7:45:32 AMMay 25
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Hello Aubrey,

I found that if you can cope with just 5 litres at a time, you can make it with just R3200... Quite more affordable, althoug it does look a bit less fancy, but seems to use the same filter, so I guess it's just as effective...
https://venturegear.co.za/product/lifesaver-cube/

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Aubrey

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May 27, 2024, 5:39:10 AMMay 27
to Luca Zava, tracks...@googlegroups.com

Thank you sir. Landy just had a service …equivalent to two filter units 😊

 

Kind regards

 

Aubrey Moore

 

C 082 654 5858

 

Anya

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May 27, 2024, 3:34:14 PMMay 27
to Steve Burnett, Tracks4Africa
Hi Luca,

I’ve been to Bot only once, so def have the least experience here.

I got Mascom sim in Kasane and unfortunately the service wasnt available in Khwai area. We were told only BTC works there - maybe not in the park, but on the main road in Khwai village.

If you want to travel with others, I was just told about this company:


My husband’s coworker is going with them this summer. Maybe worth looking into it. They take care of the reservations, food, and tents - but you still need your own mattress, sheets, camping chairs, so probably it makes sense to just rent RTT 4x4.

If you can swing it, I would rent a vehicle with hard top RTT. It literally takes no time to open it and close it. And you will not get dirty all over rubbing against your car trying to pull the tent cover on. We hated that on our Namibia trip.


Best Regards, 
Anya

On May 24, 2024, at 3:49 AM, Steve Burnett <st...@5thavenue.co.za> wrote:


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