tweaking tuning and transforming a toy piano
1,688 views
Skip to first unread message
Thom
Sep 10, 2009, 11:09:30 AM9/10/09
to Toy Piano Time
Hello all … glad to find this group. Been interested in toy pianos
lately. I’m currently rebuilding a 1950’s Shoen??ut Spinet toy piano.
I’m not necessarily restoring it but more reworking / modifying it to
improve tone and playability and make it electric … I thought some of
you (who no doubt have forgotten more about toy pianos than I will
ever know) might have some ideas.
Here’s my rebuild in phases – I’m only in phase 1 so the 2nd and third
are what I hope to do – please feel free to comment or suggest better
approaches (sorry for the length of phase one):
Phase 1- Action / Tone:
I removed the hammers keys etc … and re felted the base … the fulcrum
(? – part that the keys teeter on like a see saw) is a thin wood plank
– it was slightly off center so I ripped it out and replaced it with
a metal rod (in doing so I raised the action a little bit to push the
hammers a little closer to the tines). I applied powdered graphite to
the rod and back of the keys to reduce friction …
I then removed the hammers from the rod they're on, added powdered
graphite, and realigned them with the tines (installing thin plastic
washers to properly space hammers as needed) … I purchased small oak
plugs (about the size of a skittle) and epoxied them to the heads of
the hammers to soften the sound of the strike a hair. (I prefer wood
on metal rather than the plastic hammers)
I also added weight to the back of the keys (hot glued steel nuts) so
the keys would return quickly to its start position and prevent
sticking / allow for faster repetitive key strikes … similarly I also
added weight to the back end of the hammer (prevent the hammer from
coming to rest against the tine and allows for faster notes) … I
drilled a hole in the back of the keys and inserted a ‘guide rod’ to
prevent them from wiggling and keep them in place and in line … lastly
I removed the tines completely and soaked each over night in CLR to
remove some rust and corrosion
The result is a softer sound - wood on metal sounds closer to a
xylophone and the new felt has decreased a fair portion of the extra
clanking noise the piano makes. The action is a bit heavier so one can
play faster parts a little more clearly … its not a Steinway by any
means but has a little bit better playability (I didn’t want to
totally strip it of the toy piano sound – that’s part of the charm –
just wanted to soften the sound a bit and increase the playability – I
intend to use this live)
Phase 2 – Tuning:
Shoen??ut’s never go out of tune - so they say? … maybe so but that
doesn’t mean they start out in tune ... and this is where I am. I have
a number of keys that are massively sharp or flat and many slightly
so… I figure the flats are easy – just grind/shave the metal down a
bit … but the sharps are a little bit of a stumper adding metal … I
have copper wire I can add but would rather have a more permanent
solution and don’t really want to glue the metal tine in case it
muffles/mutes it. any thoughts? … I could add solder but I was
concerned the solder was a different density and might not have the
desired effect ?
Phase 3 - Amplification:
I want to be able to plug this into an amp and run it through various
effects (primarily reverb and tremolo) … I originally envisioned
micing the piano but lately (based off the workings of a Rhodes) I am
leaning towards installing a series of 8 thin guitar pickups right
behind the tines (all same brand so equal output and the magnets
almost perfectly line up with the tines) … run them in series and then
install a volume and tone control on the front face plate of the face
plate …
Sorry for the length - I just like to ramble I suppose … seems like a
lot of work but its been oddly relaxing and entertaining … thought I’d
share in case some one had some ideas or thought about making some
tweaks to their toy piano ...
lately. I’m currently rebuilding a 1950’s Shoen??ut Spinet toy piano.
I’m not necessarily restoring it but more reworking / modifying it to
improve tone and playability and make it electric … I thought some of
you (who no doubt have forgotten more about toy pianos than I will
ever know) might have some ideas.
Here’s my rebuild in phases – I’m only in phase 1 so the 2nd and third
are what I hope to do – please feel free to comment or suggest better
approaches (sorry for the length of phase one):
Phase 1- Action / Tone:
I removed the hammers keys etc … and re felted the base … the fulcrum
(? – part that the keys teeter on like a see saw) is a thin wood plank
– it was slightly off center so I ripped it out and replaced it with
a metal rod (in doing so I raised the action a little bit to push the
hammers a little closer to the tines). I applied powdered graphite to
the rod and back of the keys to reduce friction …
I then removed the hammers from the rod they're on, added powdered
graphite, and realigned them with the tines (installing thin plastic
washers to properly space hammers as needed) … I purchased small oak
plugs (about the size of a skittle) and epoxied them to the heads of
the hammers to soften the sound of the strike a hair. (I prefer wood
on metal rather than the plastic hammers)
I also added weight to the back of the keys (hot glued steel nuts) so
the keys would return quickly to its start position and prevent
sticking / allow for faster repetitive key strikes … similarly I also
added weight to the back end of the hammer (prevent the hammer from
coming to rest against the tine and allows for faster notes) … I
drilled a hole in the back of the keys and inserted a ‘guide rod’ to
prevent them from wiggling and keep them in place and in line … lastly
I removed the tines completely and soaked each over night in CLR to
remove some rust and corrosion
The result is a softer sound - wood on metal sounds closer to a
xylophone and the new felt has decreased a fair portion of the extra
clanking noise the piano makes. The action is a bit heavier so one can
play faster parts a little more clearly … its not a Steinway by any
means but has a little bit better playability (I didn’t want to
totally strip it of the toy piano sound – that’s part of the charm –
just wanted to soften the sound a bit and increase the playability – I
intend to use this live)
Phase 2 – Tuning:
Shoen??ut’s never go out of tune - so they say? … maybe so but that
doesn’t mean they start out in tune ... and this is where I am. I have
a number of keys that are massively sharp or flat and many slightly
so… I figure the flats are easy – just grind/shave the metal down a
bit … but the sharps are a little bit of a stumper adding metal … I
have copper wire I can add but would rather have a more permanent
solution and don’t really want to glue the metal tine in case it
muffles/mutes it. any thoughts? … I could add solder but I was
concerned the solder was a different density and might not have the
desired effect ?
Phase 3 - Amplification:
I want to be able to plug this into an amp and run it through various
effects (primarily reverb and tremolo) … I originally envisioned
micing the piano but lately (based off the workings of a Rhodes) I am
leaning towards installing a series of 8 thin guitar pickups right
behind the tines (all same brand so equal output and the magnets
almost perfectly line up with the tines) … run them in series and then
install a volume and tone control on the front face plate of the face
plate …
Sorry for the length - I just like to ramble I suppose … seems like a
lot of work but its been oddly relaxing and entertaining … thought I’d
share in case some one had some ideas or thought about making some
tweaks to their toy piano ...
Ricardo Rabadan Paz
Sep 12, 2009, 12:36:05 PM9/12/09
to toypia...@googlegroups.com
Nice work and nice ideas!!
The trickiest part will be to flatten the sharp notes. I've tried adding copper wire without any kind of glue, but it changes the sound (mostly muffles it). Same with some springs provided by Schoenhut. What kind of solder do you have in mind? The kind used for electronics? You can try that one because it's very easy to take off if you don't like the results.
There are many people interested in finding an effective way to flatten notes, so if you happen to find a solution, please post it. Thanks!!
-----Mensaje original-----
De: toypia...@googlegroups.com [mailto:toypia...@googlegroups.com] En nombre de Thom
Enviado el: jueves, 10 de septiembre de 2009 12:10
Para: Toy Piano Time
Asunto: tweaking tuning and transforming a toy piano
Chris Allert
Sep 12, 2009, 12:59:45 PM9/12/09
to toypia...@googlegroups.com
there are a few other options. one is to shift all the notes over by
one so the hammers hit one note lower than before. then grind
everything down until it is in tune. you lose the lowest note on the
piano this way.
another option is to sharpen everything so the piano is in tune with
itself, but not with other instruments. if you sharpen everything up to
the next semitone, you could play in c# when you want to play in d.
this is a good option for a three-octave piano.
it is also possible to replace the tines. they are made of music wire,
which is a standard part that you can find at hobby suppliers.
a few years ago the schoenhut deluxe traditional spinet
(http://www.toypiano.com/6637.htm) was from a different factory and
tuned better than the other models. to get one that is in tune, you
have to call the schoenhut factory directly and tell them you are a
musician and want one that is in tune before you place your order with a
reseller. i'm not sure if this is still the case, but the people at
schoenhut were very helpful when i talked to them.
Ricardo Rabadan Paz wrote:
> Nice work and nice ideas!!
>
> The trickiest part will be to flatten the sharp notes. I've tried adding
> copper wire without any kind of glue, but it changes the sound (mostly
> muffles it). Same with some springs provided by Schoenhut. What kind of
> solder do you have in mind? The kind used for electronics? You can try that
> one because it's very easy to take off if you don't like the results.
>
> There are many people interested in finding an effective way to flatten
> notes, so if you happen to find a solution, please post it. Thanks!!
>
>
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: toypia...@googlegroups.com [mailto:toypia...@googlegroups.com] En
> nombre de Thom
> Enviado el: jueves, 10 de septiembre de 2009 12:10
> Para: Toy Piano Time
> Asunto: tweaking tuning and transforming a toy piano
>
>
> Hello all . glad to find this group. Been interested in toy pianos
> are what I hope to do - please feel free to comment or suggest better
> (? - part that the keys teeter on like a see saw) is a thin wood plank
> - it was slightly off center so I ripped it out and replaced it with
> just wanted to soften the sound a bit and increase the playability - I
> Shoen??ut's never go out of tune - so they say? . maybe so but that
> bit . but the sharps are a little bit of a stumper adding metal . I
>
> Sorry for the length - I just like to ramble I suppose . seems like a
> lot of work but its been oddly relaxing and entertaining . thought I'd
one so the hammers hit one note lower than before. then grind
everything down until it is in tune. you lose the lowest note on the
piano this way.
another option is to sharpen everything so the piano is in tune with
itself, but not with other instruments. if you sharpen everything up to
the next semitone, you could play in c# when you want to play in d.
this is a good option for a three-octave piano.
it is also possible to replace the tines. they are made of music wire,
which is a standard part that you can find at hobby suppliers.
a few years ago the schoenhut deluxe traditional spinet
(http://www.toypiano.com/6637.htm) was from a different factory and
tuned better than the other models. to get one that is in tune, you
have to call the schoenhut factory directly and tell them you are a
musician and want one that is in tune before you place your order with a
reseller. i'm not sure if this is still the case, but the people at
schoenhut were very helpful when i talked to them.
Ricardo Rabadan Paz wrote:
> Nice work and nice ideas!!
>
> The trickiest part will be to flatten the sharp notes. I've tried adding
> copper wire without any kind of glue, but it changes the sound (mostly
> muffles it). Same with some springs provided by Schoenhut. What kind of
> solder do you have in mind? The kind used for electronics? You can try that
> one because it's very easy to take off if you don't like the results.
>
> There are many people interested in finding an effective way to flatten
> notes, so if you happen to find a solution, please post it. Thanks!!
>
>
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: toypia...@googlegroups.com [mailto:toypia...@googlegroups.com] En
> nombre de Thom
> Enviado el: jueves, 10 de septiembre de 2009 12:10
> Para: Toy Piano Time
> Asunto: tweaking tuning and transforming a toy piano
>
>
> lately. I'm currently rebuilding a 1950's Shoen??ut Spinet toy piano.
> I'm not necessarily restoring it but more reworking / modifying it to
> improve tone and playability and make it electric . I thought some of
> I'm not necessarily restoring it but more reworking / modifying it to
> you (who no doubt have forgotten more about toy pianos than I will
> ever know) might have some ideas.
>
> Here's my rebuild in phases - I'm only in phase 1 so the 2nd and third
> ever know) might have some ideas.
>
> are what I hope to do - please feel free to comment or suggest better
> approaches (sorry for the length of phase one):
>
> Phase 1- Action / Tone:
> I removed the hammers keys etc . and re felted the base . the fulcrum
>
> Phase 1- Action / Tone:
> (? - part that the keys teeter on like a see saw) is a thin wood plank
> - it was slightly off center so I ripped it out and replaced it with
> a metal rod (in doing so I raised the action a little bit to push the
> hammers a little closer to the tines). I applied powdered graphite to
> the rod and back of the keys to reduce friction .
> hammers a little closer to the tines). I applied powdered graphite to
>
> I then removed the hammers from the rod they're on, added powdered
> graphite, and realigned them with the tines (installing thin plastic
> washers to properly space hammers as needed) . I purchased small oak
> I then removed the hammers from the rod they're on, added powdered
> graphite, and realigned them with the tines (installing thin plastic
> plugs (about the size of a skittle) and epoxied them to the heads of
> the hammers to soften the sound of the strike a hair. (I prefer wood
> on metal rather than the plastic hammers)
>
> I also added weight to the back of the keys (hot glued steel nuts) so
> the keys would return quickly to its start position and prevent
> sticking / allow for faster repetitive key strikes . similarly I also
> the hammers to soften the sound of the strike a hair. (I prefer wood
> on metal rather than the plastic hammers)
>
> I also added weight to the back of the keys (hot glued steel nuts) so
> the keys would return quickly to its start position and prevent
> added weight to the back end of the hammer (prevent the hammer from
> coming to rest against the tine and allows for faster notes) . I
> drilled a hole in the back of the keys and inserted a 'guide rod' to
> prevent them from wiggling and keep them in place and in line . lastly
> I removed the tines completely and soaked each over night in CLR to
> remove some rust and corrosion
>
> The result is a softer sound - wood on metal sounds closer to a
> xylophone and the new felt has decreased a fair portion of the extra
> clanking noise the piano makes. The action is a bit heavier so one can
> play faster parts a little more clearly . its not a Steinway by any
> remove some rust and corrosion
>
> The result is a softer sound - wood on metal sounds closer to a
> xylophone and the new felt has decreased a fair portion of the extra
> clanking noise the piano makes. The action is a bit heavier so one can
> means but has a little bit better playability (I didn't want to
> totally strip it of the toy piano sound - that's part of the charm -
> just wanted to soften the sound a bit and increase the playability - I
> intend to use this live)
>
>
> Phase 2 - Tuning:
>
>
> Shoen??ut's never go out of tune - so they say? . maybe so but that
> doesn't mean they start out in tune ... and this is where I am. I have
> a number of keys that are massively sharp or flat and many slightly
> so. I figure the flats are easy - just grind/shave the metal down a
> a number of keys that are massively sharp or flat and many slightly
> bit . but the sharps are a little bit of a stumper adding metal . I
> have copper wire I can add but would rather have a more permanent
> solution and don't really want to glue the metal tine in case it
> muffles/mutes it. any thoughts? . I could add solder but I was
> solution and don't really want to glue the metal tine in case it
> concerned the solder was a different density and might not have the
> desired effect ?
>
> Phase 3 - Amplification:
> I want to be able to plug this into an amp and run it through various
> effects (primarily reverb and tremolo) . I originally envisioned
> desired effect ?
>
> Phase 3 - Amplification:
> I want to be able to plug this into an amp and run it through various
> micing the piano but lately (based off the workings of a Rhodes) I am
> leaning towards installing a series of 8 thin guitar pickups right
> behind the tines (all same brand so equal output and the magnets
> almost perfectly line up with the tines) . run them in series and then
> leaning towards installing a series of 8 thin guitar pickups right
> behind the tines (all same brand so equal output and the magnets
> install a volume and tone control on the front face plate of the face
> plate .
>
> Sorry for the length - I just like to ramble I suppose . seems like a
> lot of work but its been oddly relaxing and entertaining . thought I'd
JeanDavid
Sep 12, 2009, 1:08:35 PM9/12/09
to Toy Piano Time
On Sep 10, 11:09 am, Thom <tommyram...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hello all … glad to find this group. Been interested in toy pianos
> lately. I’m currently rebuilding a 1950’s Shoen??ut Spinet toy piano.
> Here’s my rebuild in phases – I’m only in phase 1 so the 2nd and third
> are what I hope to do – please feel free to comment or suggest better
> approaches (sorry for the length of phase one):
>
> Phase 1- Action / Tone:
> I removed the hammers keys etc … and re felted the base …
> the fulcrum
> (? – part that the keys teeter on like a see saw) is a thin wood plank
> – it was slightly off center so I ripped it out and replaced it with
> a metal rod (in doing so I raised the action a little bit to push the
> hammers a little closer to the tines). I applied powdered graphite to
> the rod and back of the keys to reduce friction …
>
> I then removed the hammers from the rod they're on, added powdered
> graphite, and realigned them with the tines (installing thin plastic
> washers to properly space hammers as needed) … I purchased small oak
> plugs (about the size of a skittle) and epoxied them to the heads of
> the hammers to soften the sound of the strike a hair. (I prefer wood
> on metal rather than the plastic hammers)
quite
different from Schoenhut ones, more mellow you might say.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT0OTQG2ozM&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjG1A8BpVoo
>
> I also added weight to the back of the keys (hot glued steel nuts) so
> the keys would return quickly to its start position and prevent
> sticking / allow for faster repetitive key strikes … similarly I also
> added weight to the back end of the hammer (prevent the hammer from
> coming to rest against the tine and allows for faster notes) … I
> drilled a hole in the back of the keys and inserted a ‘guide rod’ to
> prevent them from wiggling and keep them in place and in line … lastly
> I removed the tines completely and soaked each over night in CLR to
> remove some rust and corrosion
>
> The result is a softer sound - wood on metal sounds closer to a
> xylophone and the new felt has decreased a fair portion of the extra
> clanking noise the piano makes.
Of course, some people like the clattering, considering it part of the
> I also added weight to the back of the keys (hot glued steel nuts) so
> the keys would return quickly to its start position and prevent
> sticking / allow for faster repetitive key strikes … similarly I also
> added weight to the back end of the hammer (prevent the hammer from
> coming to rest against the tine and allows for faster notes) … I
> drilled a hole in the back of the keys and inserted a ‘guide rod’ to
> prevent them from wiggling and keep them in place and in line … lastly
> I removed the tines completely and soaked each over night in CLR to
> remove some rust and corrosion
>
> The result is a softer sound - wood on metal sounds closer to a
> xylophone and the new felt has decreased a fair portion of the extra
> clanking noise the piano makes.
charm.
> The action is a bit heavier so one can
> play faster parts a little more clearly … its not a Steinway by any
> means but has a little bit better playability (I didn’t want to
> totally strip it of the toy piano sound – that’s part of the charm –
> just wanted to soften the sound a bit and increase the playability – I
> intend to use this live)
>
> Phase 2 – Tuning:
> Shoen??ut’s never go out of tune - so they say? … maybe so but that
> doesn’t mean they start out in tune ... and this is where I am. I have
> a number of keys that are massively sharp or flat and many slightly
> so… I figure the flats are easy – just grind/shave the metal down a
> bit …
I found using a Dremel tool the way to go. A file is too slow. But be
> Phase 2 – Tuning:
> Shoen??ut’s never go out of tune - so they say? … maybe so but that
> doesn’t mean they start out in tune ... and this is where I am. I have
> a number of keys that are massively sharp or flat and many slightly
> so… I figure the flats are easy – just grind/shave the metal down a
> bit …
careful
not to go sharp.
> but the sharps are a little bit of a stumper adding metal … I
> have copper wire I can add but would rather have a more permanent
> solution and don’t really want to glue the metal tine in case it
> muffles/mutes it. any thoughts? … I could add solder but I was
> concerned the solder was a different density and might not have the
> desired effect ?
JeanDavid
Sep 12, 2009, 1:17:34 PM9/12/09
to Toy Piano Time
On Sep 12, 12:59 pm, Chris Allert <chris.all...@toypiano.org> wrote
(in part):
> it is also possible to replace the tines. they are made of music wire,
> which is a standard part that you can find at hobby suppliers.
>
They are mounted in a steel block. The holes, I believe, are slightly
under
sized, and my guess, from trying to move them with a hammer and a
punch,
is that they heat the block, place the rods in, and allow it to cool.
The ones I
have will not move. I could see some of the rods' ends were blued,
indicating
that someone at the factory in China, or the warehouse in Florida had
tried to
tune them. I did not grind them as fast as whoever they were did. I
got a few
sparks, but no bluing.
Also, they are pretty heavy rods, more like thin coat hanger wire in
diameter,
but much much stiffer. Not the kind of music wire you might use on a
harp or piano.
Luckily, for me, I had two notes that were very flat; one note was a
half-tone flat;
i.e., the A and the A# sharp both sounded A. The other notes were
pretty good for a
toy piano, so I do not propose to adjust them.
Ricardo Rabadan Paz
Sep 12, 2009, 1:47:37 PM9/12/09
to toypia...@googlegroups.com
I agree with everything.
-----Mensaje original-----
De: toypia...@googlegroups.com [mailto:toypia...@googlegroups.com] En nombre de JeanDavid
Enviado el: sábado, 12 de septiembre de 2009 14:18
Para: Toy Piano Time
Asunto: Re: tweaking tuning and transforming a toy piano
In my 379M, it seems impossible to move, much less remove, the rods.
They are mounted in a steel block. The holes, I believe, are slightly
under
sized, and my guess, from trying to move them with a hammer and a
punch,
is that they heat the block, place the rods in, and allow it to cool.
The ones I
have will not move. I could see some of the rods' ends were blued,
indicating
that someone at the factory in China, or the warehouse in Florida had
tried to
tune them. I did not grind them as fast as whoever they were did. I
got a few
sparks, but no bluing.
Chris Allert
Sep 12, 2009, 2:58:35 PM9/12/09
to toypia...@googlegroups.com
There is another type of music wire that is the same as the rods used
in the toy piano. I think it's the 9/16 size. Search "music wire" on
google.
I've had three of the concert grand model, and they definitely weren't
tuned as well as the deluxe spinets I've seen. I've ordered five of
these and they have all come to me in tune. The instrument I play is
a concert grand that I swapped tines with a deluxe spinet.
If you really like the
in the toy piano. I think it's the 9/16 size. Search "music wire" on
google.
I've had three of the concert grand model, and they definitely weren't
tuned as well as the deluxe spinets I've seen. I've ordered five of
these and they have all come to me in tune. The instrument I play is
a concert grand that I swapped tines with a deluxe spinet.
If you really like the
JeanDavid
Sep 12, 2009, 9:27:02 PM9/12/09
to Toy Piano Time
On Sep 12, 2:58 pm, Chris Allert <chris.all...@toypiano.org> wrote (in
part):
> I've had three of the concert grand model, and they definitely weren't
> tuned as well as the deluxe spinets I've seen. I've ordered five of
> these and they have all come to me in tune. The instrument I play is
> a concert grand that I swapped tines with a deluxe spinet.
not normally think I need two toy pianos, but Philip Glass's Modern
Love Waltz seems to need two. I already have a 379M that is now in
pretty good tune.
>
> If you really like the
>
If you mean the Michelsonne toy pianos, I do. Especially the 4-octave
> If you really like the
>
one. But I have none of these and since they are discontinued, I guess
they command very high prices. They really must have existed once:
http://en.audiofanzine.com/acoustic-piano/michelsonne-paris/Toy-Piano-49-Keys/
Thom
Sep 16, 2009, 1:03:48 AM9/16/09
to Toy Piano Time
>
> Schoenhut.http://www.toypiano.com/gallery.htmWhich model have you?
>
Its an older model ... its closest to the 6637
> Up to your taste. Have you heard Michelsonne toy pianos? They are
> quite
> different from Schoenhut ones, more mellow you might say.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT0OTQG2ozM&feature=relatedhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjG1A8BpVoo
>
>
very expensive.
> At what point do you just get a celesta?
20 pounds
>
> The rods are very hard steel. I do not know that solder would stick.
original rod to at least attmpt it
JeanDavid
Sep 16, 2009, 8:58:06 AM9/16/09
to Toy Piano Time
On Sep 16, 1:03 am, Thom <tommyram...@gmail.com> wrote (in part):
> > The rods are very hard steel. I do not know that solder would stick.
>
> thats been my concern ... I would think you would need to heat the
> original rod to at least attmpt it
probably anneal them (make them softer) and spoil the pitch and the
development of the overtones.
Thom
Sep 16, 2009, 12:49:36 PM9/16/09
to Toy Piano Time
i think your right if i over heat them but to solder on a metal which
would carry the vibrations rather than muffle them I would think i
need to heat the part of the tine i solder so the metal 'takes' (not
sure if thats the right word - but what i mean is it may not merge
with the metal - to the extent it even can - i am new to
soldering) ... if i limit it to only heating a portion to you think
it'll still ruin it ... I suppose the best way is to try ... since my
best option is currently to move all the tines over and sacrifice one
and tune up i may have a tine to test on so i'll see what i can do and
report back
by the way i was joking about the celesta earlier but its funny you
mentioned it cause that is the sound i am trying to push towards and
at this point it might be easier coming up with a few thousand than
doing all this to a my toy piano ... hahaha ... anyway that aside i
find it fun to tinker with this stuff so its not a pain ... besides I
would like to have it on stage for some of the sounds i think i could
create once i get the pickups installed ... and it would be fun for
my accoustic shows
would carry the vibrations rather than muffle them I would think i
need to heat the part of the tine i solder so the metal 'takes' (not
sure if thats the right word - but what i mean is it may not merge
with the metal - to the extent it even can - i am new to
soldering) ... if i limit it to only heating a portion to you think
it'll still ruin it ... I suppose the best way is to try ... since my
best option is currently to move all the tines over and sacrifice one
and tune up i may have a tine to test on so i'll see what i can do and
report back
by the way i was joking about the celesta earlier but its funny you
mentioned it cause that is the sound i am trying to push towards and
at this point it might be easier coming up with a few thousand than
doing all this to a my toy piano ... hahaha ... anyway that aside i
find it fun to tinker with this stuff so its not a pain ... besides I
would like to have it on stage for some of the sounds i think i could
create once i get the pickups installed ... and it would be fun for
my accoustic shows
Reply all
Reply to author
Forward
0 new messages