Iwonder if they every fixed the throttle lag. I drove a 2007 Yaris for about 4 months. It was a fun blast. I was surprised at how well it handled, given that A) this car was originally not intended to be a handling car & B) I'm coming from a Miata.
My only gripe was the throttle lag. Man! It was awful. Whenever I would step on the gas, it was like there was some kind of messenger service that had to run back & forth to get permission or something. It would go something like this. I would hit the gas, the gas pedal would ask for permission from the ECU, the ECU would think about it for a minute, then it would relay the message back to the pedal stating that it was OK to go. Hahaha!
But yeah! Fantastic little car & engine otherwise.
Great engine. And reliable as possible. That's why I bought a 15 Yaris SE. Specifically, for the engine and the decades of reliable service it will provide to me. Don't know of any other at that price point that is that durable.
I've got this engine in a 2000 toyota echo with the 5 speed transmission and its been the most reliable engine I've ever owned having the car for 6 years now even with 182,000 miles it's still peppy when you Rev it out.
I have a 2010 3-door automatic 95K on ir and I don't notice a throttle lag, at least not to the extreme of my 2004 F150 4.6 w/AT and 4x4. I do know my traction control does limit first gear power output, I put some Altimax Arctic on 14" echo wheels and can push snow with the front bumper! In 95K I have done dozens of oil changes, put a HVAC fan, and a set of front brakes, 4 new spark plugs, an alternator belt, couple of air filters and a new set of summer tires. The only thing NOT a routine maint item was the HVAC fan, and it was like 60 bucks...Yaris = SIMPLE, Reliable, and inexpensive to maintain. I will buy another if/when this one wears out!
Since the American market doesn't penalize engines with a comparatively larger displacement like it's done nearly elsewhere, and this engine caters to no-frills models for which the ease of servicing and the suitability to lower-grade fuel and oil become valuable assets, the 1NZ-FE is likely to remain available as long as it meets the emission standards. BTW some of the downsized engines fitted to models from other manufacturers are now having issues with NOx and even PM emissions which used to be a Diesel issue.
I am still driving toyota sedan powered by the 1NZ-FE engine mated to 5 speed forward manual transmission system.
It has covered 220,000km during its service time of almost 11.5 years. Confident of more good years with this arrangement.
I've upgraded lubrication oil for 1NZ FE from 5W40 to 0W30. It passed its mandatory vehicle inspection with a lower noise emission. I almost fainted.
The optimal point of aerodynamic drag plus rolling resistance vs gearing-efficiency vs engine pumping loss appears to be optimal at vehicle speed of 70-80kph. Furthermore, if you are skillful with clutch manipulation plus patient acceleration, this powertrain can achieve no lesser than 20km per litre of gas.
Toyota should simply continue using the 1NZFE.
I'm running a scion xb with the 5spd manual.I have nearly 300,000mi on the odometer and the engine is still going strong. I did some suspension mods, a cold air intake, a piggy back ignition mod, better spark plugs, wrapped the exhaust header.... but basically nothing to the engines internals. It DOES consume about a quart of oil about 1 or 2 months but no leaks or thick smoke. The lousy catalitic converter is "not at peak efficiency" anymore either... but it still runs...strong.. It DOES take its time thinking about accelerating at low rpm but if you keep the revs above 3 grand it is a surprising engine that holds its own against many larger displacement vehicles. It makes a great first engine to learn with too.
I hope it proves to be an evergreen model and continues for a long time.
Its replacement in Europe, at least for the Yaris, is a 3-cyl derivative of the new Dynamic Force engine fitted to the E210 Corolla, but the good old 1NZ-FE is soldiering on in China, Southeast Asia and selected Latin American markets.
Proud owner of a 2006 Scion xB 5MT. Owned it since new. It is the ABSOLUTE best car I've ever owned. 177K now. Very little maintenance needed. Oil changes at 3k. Fantastic solid engine. It was my commuter for 17 years. It now has been completely redone into Ken Block themed Micro Camper as a retirement project. No expense spared. These great engines tuned. I have a custom intake with a Blitz filter and a hybrid Top mount intake, Piggy back ECU with a custom tune, Revel Medal exhaust and Koni Orange struts/shocks on Tein springs. Reggamaster whites 15x7.5 wheels on Hankook 205/45-15s. DBA slotted rotors. Engine can easily rev to 7000k and beyond on stock internals. The stage 2 clutch can chirp and pull right through 3rd gear. I love it! Oh, compression is 180-178 psi! Amazing at 177k!..New NGK platinum plugs, keep that TB clean too! Timing chain is well within specs. Take it to Cars and Coffee in its original Polar White with Hoonigan graphics kit. Gets load of compliments. 1NZ-FE!!!
Truth be known, when I first envisaged turbocharging this bB my idea was far less grand. In Japan circa 2003, the JDM Vitz (Yaris), iST (Scion xA) and bB (Scion xB) was available to purchase in Toyota Racing Development (TRD) turbo guise, a bolt-on modification that really woke up the 1NZ-FE engine with just a few PSI worth of boost, raising the power output from 110hp to around 150hp in the process. Fifteen years after the fact, road-worthy examples and engine packages from tired and crashed cars pop up quite regularly in Japan, so the easiest way for me to turbocharge my bB would have been going down this route.
For #1, the guys at New Zealand Car Parts Auckland sorted me out with 1NZ from a 2014 Yaris YRS with just over 50,000km (31,000mi) on it. Given the relatively low mileage and clean condition of the engine I really thought this 1NZ was going to be my saviour, but measuring up its bores revealed that it too was not in perfect spec for standard sized pistons. Interestingly, the measurements between the two blocks were quite similar, which then posed another a couple of questions and raised another potential issue: Do these econobox engines even have perfect bores from factory? And more importantly, what was going to happen to the shape of the bores when the cylinder head was torqued back down? I could have answered the last question by having a custom torque plate made to simulate the cylinder head fitted, but the cost of doing that was prohibitively expensive.
It was at this point that I decided that option #4 was the best course of action. Prior to pulling the engine apart it was running well and not in the slightest bit smokey (even when revved hard on the dyno), so simply deglazing the bores and fitting the same size pistons as factory (albeit forged ones) would theoretically be no worse than what I started with, but with the extra strength and lower compression I needed.
Prior to the rebuild the bare head was hot tank cleaned and lightly skimmed, and the valves were reseated for optimum seal after being given a back-cut to aid in flow. I supplied brand new Toyota OEM valve stem seals (which came with the full engine gasket set), along with the 16 cam buckets/lifters from the second engine in case they could be utilised when the valve clearance was being set.
2zzge would be heavier for a minimal increase in power. and the parts would be more expensive for it. also you add in complexity and not being able to hone the block because of the fiber shit they use in the block. also a 1nzfe cost about 368 dollars WHOLE on ebay. a 2zzge cost in the thousands and thats before parts.
1+.
This is true.
To be more precise, there are two types of alloys used (predominantly) for such pistons.
The ones that are called hypereutectic are the ones that have a *radically* bigger thermal expansion rate.
But even the other ones, which expand less than the Hypers, do indeed expand somewhat more
than a stock, OE piston.
Actually Hypereutectic pistons have far more silica in the alloy than non hyper cast and actually expand far less than a conventional cast piston. Virtually all factory pistons are Hypereutectic in the modern era. Forged pistons have almost no silica in the material and therefore expand much more. The true effect of the silica is a lot like tempering glass. High silica amounts will create a very hard, yet very brittle material. Forged pistons lack of silica makes them very "soft" yet much more resistant to shock like detonation. This is why forged pistons can actually have severe ring land wear where hyper pistons wont over the same operating time.
You do not generally want to notch your block with sharp square edges, as shown in your pictures. The edges and sharp corners are prone to becoming stress concentration points. I seriously doubt that this will become an issue in your engine, but as a general note you should have smooth transitions and tapered edges around where you've notched or otherwise modified your block.
9:11 amSeptember 11, 2018
thathellastockusdm3rdgenyaris@instagram
2zzge would be heavier for a minimal increase in power. and the parts would be more expensive for it. also you add in complexity and not being able to hone the block because of the fiber shit they use in the block. also a 1nzfe cost about 368 dollars WHOLE on ebay. a 2zzge cost in the thousands and thats before parts.
I also have the 1NZFE in my 3rd gen yaris but the oiling holes or something on the block is slightly different. none the less this will be a good guide to do what you do to your, i can also do to mine. you should include a parts # list of the things you used that were from TRD and or toyota. it would help. this engine doesnt get enough support thanks for changing that.
Those valvesprings must have a really low spring rate (and really low seat pressure) for the boost to factor into spring performance a significant amount.
Any idea what the spring rate and seat pressure delta is between the Crower units and the stock springs?
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