Novation SL61 MkII Installation

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Mike Torr

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Apr 4, 2021, 7:47:25 AM4/4/21
to TouchKeys
Hi everyone, I just joined the group. Today I've begun installing a Touchkeys kit on my Novation SL61MkII, and I thought I'd open this conversation so I could record the experience for anyone else who might be considering it.

So far, I've had to use a hacksaw just once. The bottom octave has a front-to-back plastic partition just behind the A key, so the 12-key bottom octave board needed a slot cut for it. However, it wasn't too difficult.

The TK boards don't have space to sit behind the keys themselves as the backs of the keys are quite close to another plastic partition. However, there's space behind the partition, just about(!) between the partition and a couple of screw posts. So far, so good. I'll report back if I hit any snags later.

RadBrad S

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Apr 4, 2021, 11:11:15 AM4/4/21
to Mike Torr, TouchKeys
Can you include some photos?  I plan on doing the same when I can get around to it. I’m not sure if I will use the SL MKII or the Remote SL... I like the knobs and sliders better on the old SL vs the MKII. Any solid arguments for either??  I’ve successfully installed the Touch keys Into my Yamaha PF 80.  

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 4, 2021, at 4:47 AM, Mike Torr <macro...@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi everyone, I just joined the group. Today I've begun installing a Touchkeys kit on my Novation SL61MkII, and I thought I'd open this conversation so I could record the experience for anyone else who might be considering it.

So far, I've had to use a hacksaw just once. The bottom octave has a front-to-back plastic partition just behind the A key, so the 12-key bottom octave board needed a slot cut for it. However, it wasn't too difficult.

The TK boards don't have space to sit behind the keys themselves as the backs of the keys are quite close to another plastic partition. However, there's space behind the partition, just about(!) between the partition and a couple of screw posts. So far, so good. I'll report back if I hit any snags later.

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Mike Torr

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Apr 4, 2021, 12:18:00 PM4/4/21
to TouchKeys
Sure, I'll upload some photos when I can. It's been slow progress today (partly because I'm very methodical). I had one rather nasty moment earlier when one of the inter-board connector sockets seemed to have broken. I had pushed the brown lever down on the wrong side, and it popped out! Took a while but I got it back in and I got as far as testing in the app... which brings me to the bad news.

At the moment, I might have go on hold - because unfortunately I seem to have a faulty black key sensor - it keeps showing a small touch right near the back, which is intermittent but happens a lot so it's currently unusable. I did have to cut the black sensors by the way, but I think I got away with cutting only the rear. I hope that's not the cause of the fault!

Mike Torr

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Apr 4, 2021, 12:36:10 PM4/4/21
to TouchKeys
UPDATE: Fault has disappeared. I scraped along the back of the sensor with my fingernail, having guessed that cutting it might have created a short and that perhaps removing some of the residue would remove the short. Not sure whether that was the reason but it seems to be fixed. Onward and upward! Here are some photos as requested.

Overview

Bottom octave showing partition that lifts out. It rests in grooves at each end, but luckily they're a little way back from where the Touchkeys board needs to go.

Hacksaw slot

At the moment the only thing worrying me is that there's a front panel PCB that comes down on top of the partition that sits along the upper portion (most) of the keyboard. I have a feeling it will sit in a way that will bend all the cables. Fingers crossed on that one!

Mike Torr

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Apr 4, 2021, 4:45:41 PM4/4/21
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Sensors now all attached. I'm stopping for today, finishing off tomorrow I hope.sensors-attached.png

Mike Torr

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Apr 5, 2021, 10:01:18 AM4/5/21
to TouchKeys
Construction is now complete!

I had a few headaches with tucking the ribbon cables down to get them out of the way of things that could crush them, and ended up having to open the keyboard up again twice because keys were getting stuck ON. It turned out this was because the ribbon cables, even though routed around screw posts, were still able to flex up and down, and were catching on various imperfections in the plastic mouldings. I had to poke those particular cables down behind the PCB to prevent it, so I really hope they can handle the distortion OK.

At the moment everything's working in the app, so my next step will be to read the software manual and try a few experiments on my laptop. I have Pigments installed, and I think it supports some sort of MPE, so hopefully I can configure it to respond on individual notes. We'll see.

If I were starting from scratch with no controller I would probably not choose the Novation SL61 Mk II, but it's probably going to work OK, despite some issues. There were a few obstacles to overcome with the case mouldings, and also the black keys, although usable, are a bit small and have a slight curve to them. So far, the adhesive is holding the sensors in a curved shape and is fine.

I thought for some time about the USB cable. I didn't want to mount the socket inside the case with a cutout for plugging the cable in, because of the force required to push the cable into the socket. In the end, I stuck the USB board to the bottom of the case with the cable running out through a hole I made in the back. I stuck the cable down to the base with tape as well, to mitigate any stress in the event that the main cable got caught on anything and pulled. Since I don't plan to use the keyboard in live performances I think this is an ideal solution for me: I don't mind having a cable dangling from the keyboard at all, because once I set it all up in my studio it won't be moved often.

Questions welcomed if you have any!

On Sunday, 4 April 2021 at 12:47:25 UTC+1 Mike Torr wrote:

Mike Torr

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Apr 5, 2021, 10:08:27 AM4/5/21
to TouchKeys
A few more photos...

These show how I handled the USB cable:

I also forgot to mention this, but I removed the soft strip that runs along the partition behind the keyboard. I realised that the ribbon cables were really being squeezed by the case, so I thought that removing this would give them a little more "breathing space". It might make the case rattle a bit, but I'm OK with that.
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