What Does Cracking 4 39;s Mean

[Jamey Saldana]

This Instructable will teach you how to crack the code of any combination lock in a matter of seconds! This skill is only to be used legally and I am not responsible for anything other than teaching you how to unlock your own combination locks that you may have forgotten the code to.

A combination lock (using a bike lock as an example as shown in the pictures above) has three or more dials with a keyhole through the centre of them. When correct code (in this case 9-2-4) is entered the keyholes of all the dials on the lock become aligned and toothed pin (second picture) can be inserted. When the dials are moved or jumbled, the keyholes become dis-aligned and the toothed pin cannot be removed and is therefore locked in place.

When picking/cracking a combination lock a length of rope can be used to create a makeshift handle to give you a better grip of the lock. A good grip is necessary because in order to crack the lock you will need to apply a strong and even upwards force on the shackle throughout the entire procedure and this can be difficult to obtain with just bare hands. Being able to apply strong even force on the shackle is vital in order to put a greater amount of friction on the locks dials so that when a dial is turned to the correct number it will result in a resounding 'click' and a slight upward movement of the shackle. When you feel the shackle move upwards slightly and release a 'click' you can move on to the next dial and repeat the procedure until all the dials on the lock have been completed and the lock has been cracked. If the lock is locked onto a solid object such as a gate or a door then a length of rope most likely won't be necessary as having it locked onto something gives you more control and grip thus meaning you will be able to complete the whole procedure with just your bare hands.

First of all you will have to thread your length of rope through the loop on the lock and fold it in half around the shackle as shown in the first photo. This will become your makeshift handle that will give you a sturdier and stronger grip of the lock to make the procedure easier. Next clasp the rope tightly in your hands and push down on the top of the lock as hard as you can using your thumb finger and make sure to keep exerting the same amount of force on the lock throughout the whole procedure. While still keeping even pressure on the lock you now need to rotate each of the dials slightly in each direction. You will quickly find the dial that is the hardest to rotate which is the dial you will begin with (in my case it was 'C').

Start to gradually rotate the dial that is the until you hear a resounding 'click' and feel the shackle move upwards slightly. Check the dial and make a note of the number that it 'clicked' on then continue to gradually rotate that same dial to double-check (in my case dial 'C' was the hardest to rotate and it 'clicked' on '7'). If it continues to make a 'click' sound on the same number every rotation then you have successfully figured out the first digit of the code and you can now move onto figuring out the next dial. Once again rotate each of the remaining dials to find which is the hardest to rotate (in my case it was dial 'B'). Repeat the same process you used on the first dial until you have figured out the second digit of your code (in my case it was '1'). If you have a three digit combination lock like what I have demonstrated with, you should now only have one more dial to figure out. All you will need to do now is keep constant pressure on the lock and slowly twist the remaining dial in a full rotation. As you rotate the dial the last remaining digit needed for the code will match up with the other two you had previously figured out and the shackle should open.

Now just learn to use this technique on everyone's garden sheds without being spotted or caught and you'll have free access to every tool you could ever wish for (boat lockers and storage sheds are also a good way to pick up a quick buck). Cheers!

build my printer about 4 days ago, 2 days passed no issues, then on the 3rd day i start hearing a clicking/cracking/poping like sound and im like oh no filament jam but the printer is printing normally, no under extrusions or errors on my print. i try to pin point the sound but its hard to do with all the other printer movements, it doesn't sound like its coming from the extruder. again every print ive done has had 0 issues. the sound makes me look over at the printer every time thinking something went wrong lol. any idea what it might be?

• Extruder noises from aggressive retractions or skips. Adding an extruder visualizer is really helpful for spotting these, as you can see the visualizer jerk as it happens.

• Filament dragging along the extruder. Sometimes it will fall away. Eventually, with any luck, the extruder moves up past it.

It is possible that your filament has absorbed moisture. Inspect the nozzle as the noise occurs and see if the extrusion is bubbly or frothy, or you see steam. This will usually affect print quality noticeably, so doesn't sound like your problem.

well i know for a fact its not moisture related, it does it even with a fresh sealed bag of filament, theres no steam or bubbles that i could see when the sound happens. i'll try out that extruder visualizer and see. if it does end up being the extruder motor what can i do? i mean the prints have 0 issues so theres no problems with the prints when they finish.

If it's extruder clicks or skips, slowing things down is usually the 1st step. Try simply dialing back speed using the front knob when it happens. If that helps, there's your most likely culprit. Fixing it in your slicer depends which one you're using.

using S3D with Linear Advance turned on, printing at fast speeds have no problems. but i'll have to wait to see if it is infact the extruder motor, i just ordered some magnets to use for the visualizer.

so i remembered i had a webcam so i pointed it at the bontech gear and kept watch when the noise happened, i didnt see any skipping or gear slip so i dont think its the extruder motor or gears. the more i get close to it while printing i can sorta hear the noise coming from the control box. i still havent pinpointed it yet but im sure its not the powerbox. any other ideas?

Was there ever a solution you found? I have a weird popping noise on my mk3s that is about a week old. I have checked the extruder up and down and I am about 95% sure its not the extruder. The prints come out fantastic with no under/over extrusion or anything like that.

When the Bondtech gear is slightly misaligned, it will cause the filament to twist, this binds up tension between the extruder and spool, and when it gives way, makes an interesting noise. MK3 has two tension screws, and if they aren't adjusted evenly, will cause this. A MK3S with only one screw lessens the effect, but a gear slightly off center will cause it to happen.

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The articular release of the metacarpophalangeal joint produces a typical cracking sound, resulting in what is commonly referred to as the cracking of knuckles. Despite over sixty years of research, the source of the knuckle cracking sound continues to be debated due to inconclusive experimental evidence as a result of limitations in the temporal resolution of non-invasive physiological imaging techniques. To support the available experimental data and shed light onto the source of the cracking sound, we have developed a mathematical model of the events leading to the generation of the sound. The model resolves the dynamics of a collapsing cavitation bubble in the synovial fluid inside a metacarpophalangeal joint during an articular release. The acoustic signature from the resulting bubble dynamics is shown to be consistent in both magnitude and dominant frequency with experimental measurements in the literature and with our own experiments, thus lending support for cavitation bubble collapse as the source of the cracking sound. Finally, the model also shows that only a partial collapse of the bubble is needed to replicate the experimentally observed acoustic spectra, thus allowing for bubbles to persist following the generation of sound as has been reported in recent experiments.

During articular release, the articulating surfaces (in this case the metacarpal and the proximal phalange) spring apart rapidly past the normal physiological range6. Roston and Wheeler hypothesized that this rapid motion of joints sets up vibrations in tissues leading to the cracking sound1. Mennel, on the other hand, ascribed the sound to the sudden tightening of the fibrous capsule about the joint during articular release7. However in 1971, Unsworth and co-workers through extensive experiments concluded cavitation and the subsequent collapse of cavitation bubbles in the synovial fluid as the source of the cracking sound2. Cavitation as the source of the cracking sound was widely accepted for over 40 years3,6, until Kawchuk and co-workers challenged this view recently by providing new evidence for the persistence of gas bubbles in the synovial fluid long after the cracking sounds were observed4. They hypothesized that tribonucleation-mediated sudden growth of bubbles and not their collapse was responsible for the sound.

In this manuscript, we develop a physiologically consistent mathematical model that can explain the generation of sounds accompanying knuckle cracking and thus aid in resolving the debate over the source of the sound. The model accounts for the dynamics of cavitation bubble collapse in the synovial fluid, as the presence of bubbles in the joint during knuckle cracking is unambiguously supported by virtually all researchers1,2,4,5,10 despite their differences on the origin of the sound. The cavitation bubble is assumed to originate due to the low pressure generated by tribonucleation and to subsequently evolve as the synovial fluid pressure changes inside a 2D approximated MCP joint. The acoustic waveforms and spectra generated by the collapsing bubble are shown to be consistent with our experimental recordings of knuckle cracking acoustics. Hence, this study establishes that the acoustic signature of cavitation bubble collapse is consistent with experimentally observed sounds, thus lending support for cavitation bubble collapse as a potential source of the sound. It also demonstrates the potential of detailed numerical and theoretical studies in cracking the enigma of the knuckle cracking sounds.

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