I just noticed today a weird problem related to Chrome, and it's present in both Mac Chrome and Windows (both XP and 7) as I've been able to see. Sometime this morning my extensions stopped displaying their normal pages and began simply showing a page full of chinese text.
I've attempted to uninstall/reinstall Chrome on two machines, but the problem is still present. I've also attempted removal of individual extensions (screenshot below, I've attempted removal and reinstallation of LastPass and Evernote) but to no avail. It displays both the popups from clicking the button, for all buttons, and on their options pages. It does not affect the default Chrome page.
Whatever this is it's travelling through the Chrome Sync; which is used on all but one machine (this one, as a safety backup) to sync data between them. Given the fact I now can't log in to my various extensions directly and it's spread to all my Chrome installations save one and I can't figure out where to remove it, this is rather a debilitating problem.
My best guess right now is either some sort of bad extension (I installed Reader Plus this morning, before the problem, and have since uninstalled it but no change) or that reinstalling it would have done the trick, but there were some cached files somewhere causing the problems. I have run virus/malware scans and nothing has pinged them yet (although the full HDD scan is still running, it's passed Chrome's folders). So I'm out of ideas.
Addendum: Some more testing has shown this to be something in the preferences itself. Other synced areas (including extensions) are fine until preferences are synced, as soon as they are, this change occurs.
I have been attending this forum for a while as a reader, and following your discussions on how to imitate Aerochrome film in digital. This is clearly not what this post is about, although it put me on the right way to find out how to obtain a DIY version of Kolarivision IR Chrome filter. I would say it has been a mix of trial and error plus some rudimentary investigation on colour wavelengths. The filters tested are the chinese QB2, QB3 and QB19. A chinese factory was selling QB2 as the cheap version of IR Chrome, but QB2 is far from any resemblance by itself. They even stole Kolarivision photo from the website to promote the QB2.
The QB2 toghether with a GRB3 or KG3 from the same retailer made some difference, but still not good enough. The leakage of IR was still too strong. The tests I did with only visible light showed too much red and yellow overall. So the amount of light transmited around 500nm to 700nm was still too much compared to IR Chrome. On the images below you can see the original colour pattern I created followed by Kolari vs. QB2 vs. QB3.
QB3, as you can imagine, is far from any resemblance with Kolari's. The final image is too blueish. Although its wavelength is quite similar to Lee 729, I couldn't manage any similar results. I must say, my QB3 is just 1mm, I will come back to this later. I saw this QB19 filter after a while, which looked somehow in between QB2 and QB19.
QB19 filter is really similar to QB2, but cuts blues at 325nm aproximately. Also, does not allow that much light from 500nm to 700nm as QB2 does. I will let experts from this place to debate on it. I am not a physicist, so I am afraid I'd say some stupid stuff.
My QB19 filters are 1mm and 1.5mm. Toghether with them, I tried GBR3 or KGB3 from the same retailer. These are 1mm and 2mm thick. Right now I am using 1:1 ratio. So same thickness on both filters. The good thing about using 1mm filters is that I can use one single ring for my super wideangle lenses.
The slight difference you can see between QB19 + KG3 and Kolari's is due to adjusts made on camera white balance. I did not have a WB card, so I had to do it by visual approximation. A bit more green on the camera would solve the problem. QB2, as you can see has a bit too much red, this bothers a bit when editing and makes it hard to preserve the warm-orange-red tones from the vegetation. This combination, QB2 + KG3 is really nice to make golden vegetation.
Disclaimer: I really appreciate Yann's work on IR Chrome, and this post is not by any means trying to discredit his work. In fact, I got inspired by his dedication to IR light and this is what took me here!
;)
Oh, sorry I wrote down XT20. It is a XT10, I will correct it. Anyway, it is full spectrum converted indeed. The poor orange could be due to the preset used on camera, I think I might have added too much green on the WB preset.
I don't know if there is many people using Fuji in this forum, but as long as I've seen, Fuji tends to render this filter towards orange. I've managed to obtain a redish-purple tone on the leaves in certain light situations, but colour post-process is needed with this camera system most of the times.
Below, you can see two different crops from my screen in the post-process tab of Adobe LR. Note that to obtain the same result, I just needed slightly different slider adjustments. The biggest difference lies on WB adjustment. As you can see, QB19 + KG3 need lower colour temperature as well as adding more green. This is probably due to more IR light passing through my filter since it is just 2mm with 1mm KG3. Normally IR Chrome needs to slow down exposure by 1/3 to 2/3.
I managed to get to it around the end of april, and funny thing, I also tought about the QB3 you ask for in the other post. I've been quite bussy lately, so I could not post it before :P I have not tried QB21, but I am pretty sure it will give some interesting results. So if you order it, I'd love to see the results.
Nantong Foric Optical Glass is my trustful company for ordering filters. Their quality is great, not best, but the price is quite competitive. They are already selling a combination, QB19 + KG1. This combination came up after all the conversations I had with them, but I really don't know how well will this works. My take goes with KG3 and I see no point to combinate it with KG1. Feel free to send them a message and ask for a QB19 + KG3 1:1mm. I will be happy to see the results you get with the True Color Super Red (SR)! Also, if you don't mind stacking two filter rings, a 2mm each one would be suitable I guess.
If you want to order any other filter from them, they can personalize the thickness, which the Tangsinuo Optoelectronic Tecnology will not do unless you ask them for a bunch of the same filter at once.
However I must point something out. You shared a transmission graph for QB19. In that graph, in that steep rise in the IR, the curve actually goes back on itself at one point which is obviously wrong. It's things like that which make me distrust provided spectra. I'm afraid without getting them measured properly its hard to know what you're actually getting.
UVP is assumed to be a forum for exchange of information and viewpoints. Science and aesthetics combine since we are involved in photography, which is a visual channel of communication. It is not about being in total agreement in a discussion. What we cannot accept is personal attacks.
My current state of long Covid prevents me from being active on UVP at present. I hope this will change for the better over time. Meanwhile, I ask members to think twice before posting contentious matter.
I'd like to believe we are all adults and can have and share opinions on here. UVP offers the global 'invisible light' imaging community an incredible resource, bringing together experts and enthusiasts across the whole imaging field from technical to aesthetic. Whenever someone contacts me asking about my imaging research, the first this I say to them is 'Have you signed up to UVP?'. Personally, I come here mainly to learn and share what I have learned with my research, with the hope that it can be of use to others. I'm a scientist first before anything else, so of course I'm going to comment when I see something that doesn't look right to me, just as I expect it to be called out when needed (I'm sure some of us remember the Hoya R72 spectra issue where I shared dodgy data). Rest assured, I don't feel 'attacked' by anything that has been said, and look forward to many more interactions on the forum in the future.
To me it was clear from the start that this topic was about trying to come up with a cheap solution for the IR Chrome filter without being too scientific about it (even though Marc didn't just grab some blue filters without doing research first).
Hence I felt the need to respond and explain not everyone's here for scientific data. I have no scientific background, I just came here because IR photography has been my hobby since I was 17 years old (mid 1980's). I like experimenting with different filters and I've learned a lot through this forum. I do like reading transmission charts and figuring out if something could work to get the result I'm after. I think I was the first here to use the Lee 115 filter and discovered it could give very interesting results. This wasn't based on scientific data but just trying things out. If a member with more knowledge than me can figure out WHY it's giving this result then that's great and gives us all more insight but for me it's the result that's most important. If someone wants to get to the bottom of it and do measurements then that person is free to do so and scan the filters.
After reading all the discussion above, I am pretty sure JMC somehow was asking where did I get that chart from. The answer is that it comes from Nantong Foric Optical Glass. I won't discuss about its correctness, I already said I am no physicist. Since I have no spectometer, I cannot share the real curve of the QB19. If you have one, the filter is quite cheap, so I encourage you to buy it and share the results with us; I assure I'll be the first one interested to listen to your findings. Anyway, I think nobody shared IR Chrome spectrum before, so without it, it is kind of pointless to obtain an accurate curve of the QB19 or the QB19 + KG3, since the point here is to obtain same results as Kolari's filter. Hence, my work has been based on a rough scientific method:
1. All photos taken with the same camera and lenses.