Re-power Crusader 270 single screw in Tolly 26 Sedan

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Brian Edmondson

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Oct 9, 2019, 7:24:00 PM10/9/19
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Hello Tolly fans,

I have been working on a (pretty much) complete update of my 1983 Tolly 26 Sedan.  Along the way I have been capturing photos and making notes.  This posting is the start of my effort to share my efforts.  I had started this on the club website and that work was apparently lost.  I have a TON of photos and information, so I won't be able to post it all real quickly as my priority remains getting Symphony back in the water.  As of December 2019 she will have been in my driveway for 3 years.

One thing that I have done that should turn out pretty special is the building of a "Quench Effect Engine."  I sent my 1983 5.7 Chevy block aside and started with a 1987 block to take advantage of two upgrades to the small block Chevy (SBC), 1) one-piece rear main seal, and 2)  Roller bearing lifters.  I also dumped the Chevy heads and built with IMCA (aftermarket) heads from Engine Quest.  I did NOT go for additional horsepower (above the 270 of the original engine).  I went for torque, and after the engine was built, I took it to Preston Automotive in Sammamish Washington for a "dyno-tune and break-in."  The performance of my engine was a pleasant surprise, even for Jim Preston, who has seen it all.  The HP remains at 270, but we got 285 ft lbs of torque, and achieved that at only 2,400 RPM.  The torque curve actually flattens at 2,400 and stays flat up to 5,200 RPM.  This may be a big deal for people looking for options when re-powering their boats.

Also, please note that you do NOT have to remove the structural member that separates the two forward hatches in later model Tolly 26s.  I used blocks on top of the stringers and got the engine into the rear hatch in two picks and out that hatch with a third.  That took me less than a half hour to set up and execute.  Take a look at the following video, from a private link.  You won't find this video on Youtube.  Please do not post the video in any other location, and forgive the brief appearance by my older boy who - like his father - thinks he's funny:


I will be posting a lot more information as time goes on, but not so much here immediately.  I need to work on my boat.  However, I will try to help anybody I can if you have questions you need help with.

Brian E.
Quench and Squish area explained.jpg
Quench Piston_038-040.jpg
Quench possible .jpg

Brian Edmondson

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Oct 10, 2019, 11:15:17 PM10/10/19
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CORRECTION:  I had a typo in my statement regarding my engine's torque.  It should have read "385 ft lbs of torque," not 285.

Steve Kraus

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Jan 29, 2020, 12:29:35 AM1/29/20
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Brian, this is impressive and most informative, thanks.  Any new advancements to share at this time?

Another topic for the 26':  
 at the top of each of the 2 fuel tanks there is a shut-off valve AND  associated with this valve system there is a  one-way ball check valve.
I  accessed same and one of the valves tiny spring had failed but  continued to passed fuel. as drawn by the electric fuel pump**.
However, Walbro  (fuel pump) engineer comments that this part failure could upset  the required simultaneous and  equal fuel draw from the tanks.

I would value any comment  since a common 26' Tolly complaint is unequal fuel draw between the tanks that may be sourced by the original ball check valve malfunctioning.

( Engineering  simple recommended resolution:    remove the stressed 35+ year old OEM valve and replace  with a new WALBRO ***one-way brass ball check valve 1/4" to 5/16"  P/N 128-3220 ( may be adjusted for different barb I.D. dimension ). 
*** or equal.

**  With the large displacement 454 cid Mercruiser power,  the fuel feed system has been upgraded to a proper capacity electric fuel pump and a Racor S3220 filter / water separator unit and a FloScan unit.. 

Thanks, Steve

Brian Edmondson

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Jan 30, 2020, 7:49:16 PM1/30/20
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Hi Steve!  

Fuel System General:  The fuel system is is another area that is critical where I don't have total confidence in my knowledge.  I am going to be digging into that shortly however, but even if I learn it all and feel really confident, I'm going to hire a qualified marine mechanic to inspect it when I'm done.  Because it's gasoline.  Scary fuel.  

Electric Fuel Pump:  The one thing that caught my eye however was the electric fuel pump.  There are additional measures we need to take with those as they can keep pumping gas after the engine has died.  I think there is  some special switching for that.  My new engine uses the old-fashioned mechanical fuel pump that obviously stops pumping fuel.

Other:  The issue with the check valves makes perfect sense.  

Childhood Story:  And when it comes to 35-year-old stuff, take a real close look at any rubber fuel lines.  When I was a kid our neighbor's boat stalled in the middle of the (very dangerous) Mississippi River with a tug pushing a huge tow of barges (tied together) down river... maybe a dozen or more.  The tow - maybe four barges wide - was pushing a 3' wall of water in front of it.  Those guys don't have good brakes, so boaters stay well away from them... that is unless their boat is stalled in the middle of the river.  We didn't discover the problem until we got the boat back home, but the hose or squeeze ball had deteriorated and the particles were plugging the fuel line.  I laid on the deck underneath the transom seat and kept squeezing the ball.  The engine would start and we could move just a few feet before the engine died and everybody on the boat was screaming "squeeze the ball Brian."  It was not funny at the time, but "squeeze the ball Brian" became a family joke that went on for decades.  But I couldn't see the tow as I laid there squeezing that ball.  But I could tell we got very close to danger by the panic in their voices.  I never got a medal or anything for that.  Just the joke that I didn't particularly like :)

Dennis Funk

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Apr 3, 2021, 1:56:40 PM4/3/21
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1978 / 255 Mercruiser / Tolly 26 / Had in shop last month for new fuel tanks. Per my shop tanks are fine. We installed all new fuel lines / anti-siphon valves / cut inspection holes or ports (whatever you want to call) on both sides for full access to fill lines / in cockpit floor for access to fuel tank sending units. Installed new 2 way valve for tanks selection in a nice accessible position. Came out nice. My yard says tanks were properly maintained and should good many more years of service.

Regards,

Dennis Funk
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