Removing Some Fiberglass to Remove Fuel Tanks

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Chris Hartsfield

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Feb 10, 2022, 11:35:18 PM2/10/22
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I posted earlier about replacement gas tanks and have decided to have aluminum tanks made, probably from Coastline. 

However I have another question. I could remove the tanks by removing some minor things in the engine compartment and cutting two small sections of fiberglass. Once the tanks are out I could re-fiberglass/fix the cut out areas then have the tank made about 3-4 inches shorter and be able to slide them right back in place. 

Would there be any significant downside to doing this?

Thanks 

Chris

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Rico Adams

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Feb 11, 2022, 12:38:44 AM2/11/22
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Chris

On my boat the tanks were bolted to a plywood flooring with screws on the bottom. Up top there are pieces of wood attached that basically trap the top of the tanks to the floor beams above to further restrain the tanks. Yours look to be up against some structure so may be a restraint consideration. 

Another thing is coastline welded strips of aluminum to the bottom of the tanks that are used to attach the tanks, but also lift tanks a bit to provide an air gap between the bottom of the tank and the floor. This air gap is important to prevent corrosion. These straps should also be sealed to prevent any moisture from getting between the tank and the straps themselves to prevent crevice corrosion, the cause of my tank failure. 

Rico 

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On Feb 10, 2022, at 8:35 PM, Chris Hartsfield <trihar...@gmail.com> wrote:

I posted earlier about replacement gas tanks and have decided to have aluminum tanks made, probably from Coastline. 
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Jay Yanick

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Feb 11, 2022, 9:31:25 AM2/11/22
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I had to replace my tanks  on my 26 Tolly it required me to cut my stringers and remove the tanks out the back hatch I had the tanks rebuilt at Ballard sheet-metal and had them 2 inches shorter we fiberglass the stringers and then I was able to just slide the new tanks back in hope that helps

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On Feb 10, 2022, at 10:38 PM, Rico Adams <ricoan...@comcast.net> wrote:

Chris

Brian Edmondson

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Feb 11, 2022, 3:51:41 PM2/11/22
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Hey Chris,
Do you have any more pictures... some that would show more context?  Also, take a look at my "Engine" folder, my "Selected pics for sharing" folder, and my "Fuel System" folder for some perspective.  My '83 has two deck plates at the front of the cockpit with a hinged hatch in the center of the back of the cockpit.  I think Tolly changed this in 1981 or there abouts.  You might just have deck plate in the center over the engine.  What I see in the pic you provided looks like a tough one.  My new tanks went in without much trouble at all... and no mods needed to the boat.

Brian Edmnondson

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Chris Hartsfield

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Feb 11, 2022, 10:01:55 PM2/11/22
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Brian,

I will get some tomorrow. I spent half the day today removing everything that will be in the way for removal, water tank, exhaust, bilge pump, etc. The pictures I get tomorrow will give more context on how I think I can get it out.

Chris

Brian Edmondson

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Feb 12, 2022, 11:12:46 AM2/12/22
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I don't think so Chris, but I can't see what you mean.  I would be cautious and think twice before cutting into or modifying something structural.  And if you do, you gotta make sure it's restored to its original strength.  

One reason I say this is because the previous owners of my boat cut a 1x2 structural member (down the middle) that runs fore and aft in the cockpit supporting the deck above the port fuel tank and the ladder that goes up to the fly bridge.  They screwed the piece back in place (not a proper repair), and over time, cracks developed in the gel coat around the ladder bases and you could hear it crack when you stepped to climb the ladder.  

I would bet a puppy the deck was weakened and that's why the cracks happened.  Then again, maybe all Tolly 26 Sedans crack there:)  But they told me they did this because they couldn't get the old tank out otherwise... which I don't think was true, as I built OEM size tanks and had little trouble getting them in place.  If you look at the pictures in my "Fuel System" folder, you will note that the engine was out; but if memory serves (and it often doesn't) I believe I tested getting the tanks in and out with the engine in place minus the exhaust system and the vertical 2x2 cockpit deck crutches/supports.  I think one of my (cardboard) fuel tank mock-up pics shows that in the "Fuel System" folder.

The great thing about fiberglass is there is almost nothing that cannot be repaired and restored... but brutal exceptions exist.

BE

bhoov...@gmail.com

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Feb 13, 2022, 7:50:11 PM2/13/22
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Chris,

 

DON’T cut the stringers, you can get the tanks out the back with a little preparation and coaxing.

 

We emptied and purged our tanks with some light weight oil, then cut them in half with a sawsall, with some heavy duty ratcheting cargo straps crushed them the best we could, there is a bulkhead in the center of the tank you will not be able to crush, and after jacking up the floor, just a bit as to not crack the floor, they slide right out. Call me and I can talk you through what we did. 253-208-9069

 

Brian

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Brian Hoover

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Feb 13, 2022, 8:03:24 PM2/13/22
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On Feb 13, 2022, at 4:50 PM, bhoov...@gmail.com wrote:



Gregory Roberts

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Feb 13, 2022, 8:06:32 PM2/13/22
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Chris,

When Harbor Marine in Everett removed my starboard tank last year,  they were able to get it out by removing the exhaust manifold, and as you said, the new tanks are about 2-3 inches less in height.

Greg

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