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She to whom they were addressed, they of whom they were written, haveall passed away, and you and I are now almost the only survivors of thelarge party that in 1838 left Government House for the Upper Provinces.
Many passages of this Diary, written solely for the amusement of my ownfamily, have of course been omitted; but not a word has been added todescriptions which have little merit, but that they are true and thatthey were written on the spot.
We expect to be at Monghir to-morrow morning, whence I can send this. Wepassed through some pretty scenery yesterday; but it is all over now, Iam afraid, and we shall see nothing but flat plains till we arrive atSimla.
We all sketched away, and did not come back till it was dusk.Altogether, it was a nice scrambling, homelike expedition, if I had notcome back with such a bad headache. But, though I did, I liked Monghir,and respect J. for having organised such a good day.
We anchored last night within sight of the town; but Patna is six mileslong at least, and Mr. T. lives at Bankipore, a sort of Battersea toPatna; so we got up at six this morning, and went on deck to see thetown. There never was anything so provokingly picturesque, consideringthat the steamer goes boring on without the slightest regard for ourlove of sketching.
My room is lined with idle books, and these up-country houses all havefire-places and carpets; and though it is still very hot, the idea thatit ever may be cold is reviving. G. and F. went to church, where Mr. T.read prayers and another gentleman read a sermon, and they said it wasone of the best-performed services they have heard in this country. Wehave taken a hideous drive this evening over some brown plains, and havetwenty-six people at dinner, I grieve to say. I am as stiff as a pokerwith the fall into the hold of the flat, and was obliged to stay at homeall day.
G. went to see the jail and the opium godowns, which he said were verycurious. There is opium to the value of 1,500,000l. in theirstorehouses, and Mr. T. says that they wash every workman who comes out;because the little boys even, who are employed in making it up, willcontrive to roll about in it, and that the washing of a little boywell rolled in opium is worth four annas (or sixpence) in the bazaar, ifhe can escape to it.
We took a quiet drive with W., and then went to a large granary that wasbuilt years ago, and then found to be useless, and now it is onlycurious for the echo in it. There we found Mrs. A., Mr. G., and Miss H.and some others; and Mr. G. had brought his flute, and Miss H. observedthat the echo repeated the notes of the flute better than anything else.But then Mr. G. clapped his hands, and that was better still. He gaveher his arm as we came out, and she looked very shy; and we all tried tolook very stupid and unobservant. I have not seen such a promisingattachment for a long while. Half our party went on board to-night, andG. goes at seven to-morrow morning; but F. and I are going to stay withMr. T. till the evening, and then drive straight to the ball atDinapore, only five miles, and A. stays for us. All the others go, as G.has a leve in the morning.
We arrived at three. Mr. T., the brother of our late dear T., is theResident here, and lodges us. He had made a ghaut with a flight of stepsto his house for our landing, and the 44th Regiment, with their band,were drawn up all round his lawn.
There were two women on the landing-place with a petition. They wereHindu ladies, and were carried down in covered palanquins, and verymuch enveloped in veils. They flung themselves on the ground, and laidhold of G., and screamed and sobbed in a horrid way, but without showingtheir faces, and absolutely howled at last, before they could be carriedoff. They wanted a pardon for the husband of one of them, who, with hisfollowers, is said to have murdered about half a village full ofMussulmans, and these women say he did not do it, but that the Nazir ofthat village was his enemy, and did the murders, and then laid it ontheir party. These little traits are to give you an insight into themanners and customs of the East, and to open and improve your mind, &c.After we had made our way through all these impediments, we rested for atime, and then went to see the cantonments, and to evening service,which was read by two of the gentlemen remarkably well. Then we cameback to a great dinner, and one of the longest I ever assisted at. Iquite lost my head at last, and when second course was put down, askedMr. T. to give me some wine, thinking it was dessert, and that we mightget up and go.
I wonder how you would be in this state of life. I often try to fancyyou. Sometimes I think you would be amused for about five minutes, butgenerally I opine you would go raving mad! I constantly long to be in anopen carriage with four post-horses, along with G., and that we mightdrive through a pretty country, and arrive at an inn where nobody coulddine with us or ask us to a ball. However, to-morrow we are to get intodouble state, when we reach our tents, as it is of more importance withthe up-country natives; so it is of no use to think of betteringourselves.
Each tent is divided into bed-room, dressing-room, and sitting-room.They have covered us up in every direction, just as if we were nativewomen; and, besides that, there is a wall of red cloth, eight feet high,drawn all round our enclosure, so that, even on going out of the tent,we see nothing but a crimson wall.
G. positively declared against any more dust or any more drives, so westuck to the tents in the afternoon. He cannot endure his tent, or thecamp life altogether, and it certainly is very much opposed to all hishabits of business and regularity.
There! W. has heard that Mr. G. has proposed. I am so glad; for Miss H.has left in England everybody that cared for her. I know that she haslong liked Mr. G. I feel, too, that it is a triumph for our camp that atour very first station we should have married off our only young lady.
Yesterday we had a grand expedition, which I am going to give you andthe children, once for all, at great length, and then you will for thefuture take it for granted that all native ftes are much alike.
The Rajah of Benares asked us to come to his country-house, calledRamnuggur (how it is spelt, I cannot say; probably with none of thoseletters). It is on the other side of the Ganges. We drove down to theriver-side through a dense cloud of dust. I asked one of our servants todust me gently with my pocket-handkerchief, and without anyexaggeration a thick cloud came out of my cape.
This morning we are on the opposite bank of the river to Allahabad,almost a mile from it. It will take three days to pass the whole camp.Most of the horses and the body-guard are gone to-day, and have gotsafely over. The elephants swim for themselves, but all the camels,which amount now to about 850, have to be passed in boats: there arehundreds of horses and bullocks, and 12,000 people.
We crossed the river at seven yesterday morning. The Ganges and Jumnajoin each other here, and this junction makes the water so uncommonlyprecious and sacred, that Hindus come here from all parts of the countryon pilgrimage. The rich Hindus at a great distance buy the water, and wemet strings of pilgrims yesterday carrying jars of it, with which theywill travel farther south than Calcutta.
However, the tombs were there, and F. and I stayed there sketching tillit was quite dusk, and kept the carriage, and G. and Mr. B. and CaptainM. rode home such a roundabout way that dinner was cold before they gotback.
We had church in camp again yesterday. We received visitors on Saturdayevening instead of the morning, by way of an experiment, and it answeredmuch better. It all comes more in the natural way of work than in theheat of the day, and we had the band, and tea, and negus, andsandwiches. It was a regular party, much larger than I expected; thegreat durbar tent was quite full, and they are a morefashioned-looking set here. By coming in the evening G. sees them,which they prefer, and which, strange to say, he likes too. We havethirty-five of them at dinner to-day, and thirty-seven to-morrow. OnThursday they give us a ball, and on Saturday we depart.
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