[Ease Acoustic Software Cracking
Leana Eckes
Bought a new 500$ acoustic a few days ago. When I was changing the strings, I noticed a hairline crack on the bridge going with the grain through the pinholes. I do like the guitar, and was wondering if it's even a big deal enough to bother bringing it back to the shop.
This looks to me like someone pushed the pins in really hard. Maybe the guitar fell over or something fell upon it...? Never know. But I would not bother myself with botched attempts to repair something that is under warranty.
It's an Alvarez electric-acoustic, solid spruce top, rosewood back and sides. Wonderful instrument really. It's an older model, which I bought full price from display since it has a a better electronics than the current ones (dual pickup system - both piezo and condenser pickups)
If you - for that reason - do not want or are not able to return the broken guitar for a new one, I would suggest that you ask the vendor to either repair it for you or - in case you do not trust the workmanship of said vendor - ask the vendor to (part) fund a QUALIFIED repair.
Regardless: a split bridge is always an issue that should be dealt with ASAP. If the crack widens and the bridge splits completely, damage to the top (and in case of said Alvarez it might be an economically not feasible repair) will almost surely occur.
I fix guitars. The fix for that is to wick some thin cynoacrylic glue (super glue, but you want the water thin stuff, StewMac number 10 or equivalent) into the crack, then ream the pin holes with the proper reamer (Bob Colosi says that Alvarez uses several sizes of pins, probably 5 degree but you or your repair tech should measure).
I'm also a big believer in slotting pin holes and turning the pins around, but that may void the warranty. Obviously amateur attempts at repair will void the warranty if the bridge does happen to completely crack. And remember that when installing strings the pins only need to be lightly pushed into the holes, it is the side wedging action of the balls that holds them in place.
I'm at work so I can't see the pics but Take It Back To The Shop. ASAP. Do Not try to fix it yourself. That would be my advice for Any issue with a new guitar, computer, drill, toaster, etc. If the shop won't fix it or at least knock something off the price, you have two choices: Keep it or return it and look for another guitar. Up to you.
Not to take anything away from mbengs1 but he's mainly an electric player so his opinion regarding an Acoustic guitar is going to differ. That's why you have two suggestions that are at odds. BTW, Welcome to the Forum. And you'll have a better Forum experience if you don't approach things with a chip on your shoulder.
I've been to the shop today, they told me that I might be at fault here since I changed to a 0.012 string set when the guitar had 0.011 prior without a proper setup, and it helped that grain to crack... Don't how true it actually is, not that huge of a tension difference. Was pretty sure it was a 0.012 set too.
The shop sold you the guitar with a warranty... and then acknowledged that the bridge is cracked... and then tells you that you caused the bridge to crack by going to .012 strings??? What do you plan to do if the crack worsens?
If they refuse ask very friendly for the name of the manager and the name of the owner, and start filling in those details in a pre-printed letter to the Better Business Bureau. You might even ask - again very calm and friendly - for a pen to fill out that pre-printed form.
^ Unfortunately for you, FretFiend is correct. You're getting screwed. Most guitars ship with 12's and Alvarez is no exception. Specifically, current models ship with d'Addario EXP16's which are indeed 12's. You didn't cause the crack and they know it. And yes, what are you going to do if and when the crack gets worse? Have it fixed at your own expense when it's already under warranty? Here's what the Alvarez warranty says about cracking:
If you bought the guitar with the crack, they may conclude the damage isn't your fault. Here's the Contact URL for St. Louis Music, which distributes Alvarez: Email them, call them, write them a letter, but don't let this lie. The sooner you pursue this the better.
I think everyone has missed this. If you can't (or won't) return it then fix it. You'll void the warranty but that doesn't seem to matter. The whole story, including your shop, seems a little fishy, but I'm glad you're happy with it.
^ I, for one, haven't missed it. I know some US made guitars that would have a "lifetime warranty" only have a year outside the US. But it seems as if there ought to be a warranty of some kind. We're not talking about returning the guitar, we're talking about making it right. What the OP is saying may well be the case. After all, we don't even know what country he's talking about. But it doesn't seem right to me.
Thanks for your assistance. I do have a 1 year warranty. What I failed to mention is that the shop said that if that crack gets any more serious it will be covered under warranty, as long as it's still in the 1 year period. That being said, I do understand all your well pointed arguments. Should I go back and ask for a repair now already?
Wick in a little cyanoacrylate glue. Quickly while it's still wet in the crack, sand over the area with something like 400 grit sandpaper or coarse steel wool. Very fine particles of ebony or rosewood will mix with the wet CA in the crack. Then buff it. If the wood is ebony, the crack will completely disappear. With light rosewood it might look like a grain line.
Will it get worse? Probably, cracks don't heal themselves. Both GuitarCapo and I have told you what the fix is - either stabilize the existing bridge or replace it. Stabilizing the crack with thin CA is a diy project - the pin holes should be reamed and your shop may have the correct reamer. Replacing the bridge is not a diy project.
Whatever you end up doing, this whole thread points out one of the big disadvantages of buying online - what do you do if you get a new guitar with problems like this? How do you negotiate with the online seller, ship it back and forth - all that stuff.
btw - I usually charge about $40 to remove and reglue a bridge, $100 if I have to make a new one to fit a particular foot print. You said something about onboard electronics - that can complicate things.
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