Noor Watch

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Billi Plancarte

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Aug 3, 2024, 1:10:06 PM8/3/24

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The watch has a Swiss stem-winding movement, identified as a Helvetia 33LI calibre. The watch is keeping good time and is accurate to within 2-3 minutes per day. The movement is signed Koh-I-Noor, R.P.& S, Swiss made, 15 jewels, 3 adjustments. The movement is protected by an inner hinged cover. It has a Breguet hairspring, which is a type of balance spring with a sharply curved outer end, which improves accuracy.

Helvetia was another brand registered by Louis Brandt & Frere in 1892. Originally, it was producing affordable watches with cylinder movements. However, after the launch of the Omega brand, Helvetia, under the control of GWC turned its focus to producing watches with lever movements. Although never eclipsing the quality of Omega timepieces, they were successful in the middle of the market.

Helvetia was an ancient region of central Europe between the Alps and the Jura Mountains. It was named by the Romans after its Celtic inhabitants, the Helvetii. Helvetia corresponded roughly to the western part of modern Switzerland. In the 17th century, the name Helvetia was adopted as the female national personification of Switzerland.

The watch case measures 50mm in diameter excluding the winding stem and the loop. The case is made of nickel. The type of nickel used in watch cases is typically a nickel alloy. The alloy is normally a mixture of nickel, copper and zinc. Polished nickel has an appearance similar to silver, but is much more durable and considerably less expensive. The front is in good condition while the back has some slight bruising. Normally, I would expect a nickel case on a lower-end watch, such as one with a 7-jewel or Roskopf movement. However, this timepiece has good quality Helvetia 33LI movement with 15 jewels.

After further research, I have now come across the name of Robert Pringle & Sons, which was a London based wholesaler of jewellery, silverware, clocks, and watches in the United Kingdom between the 1830s and 1960s. The founder, Robert Pringle, was born in Scotland in 1800 and commenced his apprenticeship as a jeweller in Perth at the age of 13. He later moved to London in 1820 and started his own business as a manufacturing jeweller on Amwell Street in Clerkenwell in 1835.

It took me several weeks to complete this research. I must admit that I found it frustrating to be unable to identify R.P.& S with absolute certainty. However, I did learn more about, Omega, GWC and Helvetia, so I was able to update my existing content for those companies. The watch itself had been sold long before I started my research. However, the Koh-I-Noor brand regularly appears online, so I am sure I will have further opportunities to add one to my collection.

I have an identical Koh-I-Noor pocket watch, dating from the same period which belonged to my great grandfather. It has the R.P & S mark stamped on the movement, I am sure your research is correct and that it belongs to Robert Pringle & Sons. Very informative article.

Hi Alex, I am nearly 100% certain that the R.P & S mark stamped on the movement represents Robert Pringle & Sons. I hope you enjoy using your antique Koh-I-Noor pocket watch. Thanks for commenting, Jason