For peak performance in your high-efficiency Whirlpool water softener, evaporated salt pellets or solar salt crystals with less than 1% impurities are recommended. It is not recommended to use any kind of block salt in Whirlpool water softeners. Learn more.
Most Water Softeners use a cone with very little surface area to direct water through the tank. This results in uneven flow with more hardness collecting in the middle of the tank. This reduces softening effectiveness. Heavy buildup is also much harder to remove, and requires more salt.
Hi, thanks for your fast reply. I believe I have a Model 168 Autotrol valve with 460i timer. I just found my original paperwork and it looks like I should be checking the "injector" & "screen". From the diagram in my manual it doesn't look to be too terrible of a job. Am I on the right track, what do you think ? P.S. Sorry for the poor quality photo's, I should have checked before posting them.
It doesn't look like it. What I have is a grey tube that goes down into the salt tank. This tube (if I remember correctly) attaches to a larger plastic piece that sits at the bottom of the salt tank which I suspect may contain a ball valve of some sort, possibly to prevent air from getting into this line once all the brine has been drawn out of the tank. My tank is full with water and salt so I haven't attempted to remove this line yet. I'm trying to figure out the best way to remove the salt water in the tank then chip out the salt to get this line out so I can have a better look at it.
I did put the system into manual re-gen for about 1/2 an hour but the water level in the tank wouldn't budge. I cracked the fittings on the line that goes into the salt tank while it was in manual re-gen and the air bubbles that I introduced did get drawn into the valve so I'm thinking maybe my injector or screen might be dirty and preventing me from getting full suction. I'm going to sleep on it and try again in the morning. Thanks again for all your help.
on ours the fill is a half hour but the fill is also controled by the tank float so when the water reaches a pre set level it stops and the system does nothing for the rest of the time until the next part of the cycle
Good News everyone! I tried setting the valve to the center of the "Brine/Slow Rinse" setting which seems to occur about 1 hour into a normal cycle. I had the timer unplugged and left it in this position for 1 hour and no change in the level of the salt tank.
I then bypassed the softener, depressurized by opening all the valves using my finger or small screwdriver and removed the filter, injector and cap assembly. The filter was plugged with what looked like a ball of rusty very fine fibers ?? I cleaned everything as well as I could, greased the o-rings and reassembled. I tested the system and it is now drawing the brine from the salt tank and after a full run of the cycle (about 2 hours) the salt tank level is back to normal . I am not sure where this rusty stuff is coming from but I will re-check the filter & injector again in a couple of weeks to see if it has returned.
Them there is the resin beads from the filter media in yer tank (resin bed). Could be an indication that a seal is failing in the valve. Look carefully in your salt tank to see if this resin is present, as it would be drawn up each brinedraw cycle, the media bed tank sometimes cracks and leaks into the larger tank. If it works, great but keep yer I on it as the problem may reoccur - if the resin is leaking from the inner tank forget it as it's time to go shopping (if you wanna have soft water).
You want the expansion tank immediately before the cold water inlet to the water heater. The water in the tank expands due to heating and the hot supply side doesn't leave much room for expansion. Putting the tank on the cold supply side gives that water a place to expand before it causes backflow into the utility.
A water softener has many benefits are an excellent option for homes with light to heavy hard water. Because it reduces water hardness by removing of heavy minerals like calcium, iron, and magnesium from the water supply coming into the home, a water softener prevents common water problems including mineral deposits and scale buildup on leading to leaky faucets and clogged pipes, damage to water-based appliances, chalky films on dishwasher cleaned glasses, dry skin and hair after showering, and faded colored clothing from the washing machine.
Water softeners work by either drawing heavy minerals out of the water using a process called ion exchange or by neutralizing these minerals so that they are unable to bind together and remain soluble in the water.
Salt-based water softeners are the most commonly used and effective softener types. Most water softener systems are salt-based systems, so there are a high number of salt-based options available. They come in a variety of sizes and are appropriate for just about every dwelling.
A salt-based water softener typically works by drawing heavy minerals in the water, like calcium and magnesium, into a resin within the softener and exchanging them for sodium (salt). By removing the heavy minerals, the water returns to a healthy neutral state.
The downside to these softeners is that the resin then needs to be recharged with salt. For most homes, this will need to be done about once a week. These water softeners are also much larger than salt-free or magnetic softeners, making them not the best choice for smaller spaces.
However, there are portable water softeners that are salt-based. Designed specifically for portable functionality, these softeners are an excellent choice for an RV, a large boat, an mini/micro home, or an efficiency apartment. An included hose allows the user to connect directly to an outdoor faucet or campground water supply for instant access to softened water for cleaning, drinking, and bathing.
These sand-based 16,000-grain capacity water softeners can be recharged using simple table salt, but they do require frequent recharging with regular use. However, with the reduced size, there is also a lower price, making this option easier on the wallet for simple, low volume instances.
While salt-based water softeners do add salt to the water, it is only in trace amounts that rarely get noticed. This level of sodium is safely within the recommended range for healthy individuals, but those with low-sodium diets may wish to opt for a salt-free water softener (read next section) that uses potassium, not sodium.
A dual-tank water softener is a salt-based softener with two resin tanks. This style is often the best water softener to use for well water due to its better ability to filter heavy minerals. These tanks function in the same way as a single-tank salt-based softener, except that when one tank is in the regeneration cycle, the other tank is still providing softened water to the household.
Salt-free water softeners tend to cost more initially, do not use salt or electricity. These models are also smaller than salt-based systems, so they can easily be used for small- to large-size houses. However, these units may struggle with very high levels of hard water and households with higher than average water usage.
Instead of removing impurities from the water, the use of polyphosphates conditions the water so impurities cannot create scaling on plumbing or faucets using a filtration cartridge. This type of system is used primarily in restaurants and other commercial settings to protect appliances from scaling.
Full filtration systems not only soften water, but they also remove other contaminants in drinking water. This type of salt-free water softener functions by passing the water through a filter that crystallizes minerals, preventing them from sticking to one another and creating the scaling that can damage pipes and appliances. They also remove other contaminants, including herbicides, bacteria, viruses, pesticides, and chlorine. Filters on these water softeners can be pricey and typically last 6 months to 1 year.
Unlike more common consumer items, water softener systems are often not widely understood products, so it can be difficult for consumers to judge the best systems. Before choosing a water softener, take a few minutes to recognize the most important shopping considerations to keep in mind.
Determining water usage is as simple as multiplying the number of people in a household by gallons per day. The average person uses 75 gallons of water per day. So, for example, a family of three will use an average of 225 gallons of water per day.
Multiply the water hardness by the water usage in the home to determine what size water softener is needed.. For example, a home that uses 225 gallons of water per day with a water hardness of 10 grains per gallon requires a water softener with a capacity of 2,250 grains per day.
Small water softeners come with weekly grain capacities of 16,000, 24,000, and 32,000. These are ideal for RVs, apartments, and small houses. Medium water softeners have grain capacities of 40,000, 48,000, and 64,000. Use these models for medium to large households. For big families and large properties, a residential water softener with a grain capacity of 80,000 or 100,000 would be most appropriate.
Keep in mind that the harder the water, the more grains the system will need to handle it. A 40,000-grain system would operate very differently with 3 gpg water running through it than if it had 10 gpg water to manage.
Most salt-free water softeners are smaller than the salt-based models. They are installed directly on the waterline and hang down only 1 or 2 feet, depending on the brand. Similar in size to the salt-free softeners, portable salt-based water softeners are an alternative option for small homes or RVs that prefer a salt-based model to remove heavy metals entirely.
Magnetic water softeners take up the least amount of space, and you can install them without cutting into your plumbing. Typically, these smaller softeners can be mounted directly on the pipe and do not interfere with your floor space. These softeners are the best option to save space in smaller homes, RVs, or apartments.
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