Centurion 2010 Trailer

[Kristin Dampeer]

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I bought a 2021 Centurion Ri237 in February. The boat has been great, but I would like to bling up the trailer a bit. The 15 inch rims just aren't quite doing it for me. So I am going to upgrade the rims to some 255/55r18 rims and new tires this winter. They will fit just fine, except for I will need some wider fenders. The current fenders are just 8 inches wide, and the tires I will get are 10 inches wide and will stick out of the side of the current fender.

Here is the closest I can find: _details.php?itmId=1519 But this is 65" wide and not quite as tall. I suspect I can stretch it, but am not sure I can count on it. I would also like the additional height to keep debris within the fender, our roads have a lot of small rocks around here. Almost all of the fenders around here have the teardrop in the middle, which I am not a fan of, but will consider if I have to.

Here you can see the boatmate fender for 18s. On centurion only stopped doing the tread drop, I'm guessing just to simplify and copy extreme. I will say the older boatmate and extreme were running 255/45 (I think... part of me wants to say 225/55) which might fit better for you, hard part is finding one with the proper load range. I have found the 18s do tow better, way less bounce.

I called Boatmate. They said they put all of their fenders 65 inches apart. Also said that although there is a little flex, they would not risk it. The height of their fenders does not match up well either.

Thanks for the compliments. I do feel this is the best looking boat I have owned. It is almost impossible to capture on camera, but the flake sparkles orange, red, and a hint of green in direct sunlight.

I thought I was on to something when I went higher up at Extreme Trailers and talked to Tony Ramirez, who is their lead guy for customer service. He told me to call the parts department and that they would get me a pair. He also recommended 11 inches wide instead of 10. Then parts told me they barely have enough fenders to make the trailers they are committed to make right now and to try back in 4-6 weeks.

I then found this: -Steel-Tandem-Trailer-Fenders-11x66x17-inches-Flat-Top-sold-as-pair_p_5562.html So those are on the way. There is always a little bit of fingers being crossed on these sorts of things. I will have a local body shop paint them black for me and then be in fat city.

Anyone have any idea if I can spare the SeaDek pads on top of the old fenders? I suspect with a heat gun and some gentle teasing, I can get them off in one piece, but I have never tried to remove them before. Is there anything that will adhere enough to the new fender, or is all of that just not worth the effort?

I don't know how SeaDeck is applied, but heat is always a good idea. I would try from the fender side so you are heating the right side rather than trying to heat through the material. I expect that they use something like 3M pressure-sensitive adhesive (either as a spray or tape) to install it.

I have removed a couple dozen EVA Seadek style pads from trailer fenders. They almost always come off in several pieces and are not reusable by any stretch of the imagination. If you come up with a way to remove them in one piece and get them to stick to the new fenders, let me know.

It must be my lucky day. I was able to peel the pads right off. I am suspicious that I won't be able to get them to stick with some heavy duty spray adhesive, but it is worth a try. I am pretty sure SeaDek will charge me a ridiculous sum to get new ones, or tell me to work through my overworked dealer to get them.

Speaking of overworked businesses, I called my favorite auto body shop to get my fenders painted. They first told me that they might be able to get me in late February. Then the lady on the phone, said to hold for a sec and came back and told me they are too busy to deal with a small job like painting boat fenders. I am worried it might be that way everywhere. It is often the price we pay for living in a fast growing area. Businesses are often slower to grow than the general population. It is great for almost every business to thrive, but stinks when you want something done right away. Anyway, I am debating just hitting them with a rattle can of high gloss Krylon spray paint if a couple other shops I know can't get it done. Anyone ever do that for their boat trailer? The trailer is black, so matching the trailer itself is not such a big deal. Also because it is the fender, a slight mismatch is not going to be noticeable. Thoughts on the spray paint?

Sure you can rattle can it, and you can even put clear over the color coat if you want to. You can also probably buy the two-part primer, paint, clear coat, thinner for cleanup, a small compressor, and spray tool for less than you would pay the body shop. The difference will be the amount of dust and bugs that show up in the job, but enough clear coat and sanding will fix that. Sand it well to begin with, and wipe with thinner before you spray. Wait for a clear blue day to spray and you should be good enough.

After getting another body shop that gave me a 6 week window and a cost of $600, I asked if they knew of anyone that takes on smaller jobs like this that might be quicker. The fellow asked if I had considered getting them powder coated. He said it would probably be a lot cheaper and he knew a guy. I called his guy and was able to get them dropped off right away. They are confident that it will look great and be plenty durable. It will also be a lot less money. The more costly part will be the prep, because it looks like my fenders were probably left outside for a while stacked on top of one another. So one of them has some very light superficial rust that will require some mild sandblasting.

I got to see a lot of their work in the shop and it looks like they do a great job. They powder coat a lot of aftermarket parts for UTV's in these parts and have a pretty good volume of business going, so I hope that bodes well.

Centurion Trailer Parts is your local supplier of trailer and caravan parts and accessories. This however, is not all we promise to supply. If you can think of a need for your trailer, caravan, off-road camper, bike trailer or any other towed vehicle, we will attempt to meet that need.

We are an approved distributor for industry leader, Henred Leicht, who manufactures and supplies high speed trailer components. This goes along with our training as approved and trained technical advisers. Our vision is to become the Number One name when you think of variety, quality products and excellent service at an affordable price. Your One-Stop supplier.

Wow - that was quick - I had just finished replying to your post re LANDJUT etc then I saw this; very nice indeed Kjeld. 'Love the stowed camouflage nets - a man after my own heart; so important for Cold war era vehicles but not often seen on models.

It is the best of the 3 different fuel trailer i got, the 2 other are:

A Swedish short run resin, No name kit bougth at C4 in Malm.

the last one a short run resin kit from Danscale in Denmark.

I would buy the MR Model (Germany) trailer again, if i should build another fuel trailer.

Specifically designed for pleasure and wake boats, this step system makes entering and exiting your boat easy and safe. No trailer modifications necessary. These steps are are built entirely from Aluminum. Stainless Steel hardware is included.

Step Options

Step-mate Transom Steps

Bow Ladder and Tongue Step

Aluminum Tread Plate on Front and Rear Step Pads

Aluminum Tread Plate on Tandem Fenders (not available on Stainless Steel Fenders)

Mocha Brown Sea Dek Upgrade on Steps and Fenders

*Wheel Disclaimer

Boatmate Trailers has the right to substitute wheels based off current availability. Boatmate will attempt to contact dealer prior to making a change if time is permitting.

Due to using aftermarket wheels that are built to oversize hub bore specifications; it is crucial that dealers and customers assure proper torque specifications. Boatmate recommends to check torque specifications within the first 50 to 100 miles of towing the trailer and consistently thereafter. Torque on all Aluminum Alloy Wheels should be 115 foot-pounds of torque. Do not over tighten with impact gun or breaker bar as that can cause additional damage to the wheel, lugs as well as lug nuts.

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