123 Ignition Curves Download
Amy Sumler
I dont necessarily want to disconnect the knock sensor I would rather that the ignition curve is in a way that we dont have any knock in the first place with it still connected as a safty net, I dont like relying on the safty net. And still not really answer the question of is the knock sensor saying their is detonation when actually its just engine vibration.
Ran pretty strong with standard ignition timing but started to behave weirdly after a good long run (its a milling saw), with the idle speed unstable. Air leak. Replaced the crank seals. Inspecting the old ones - the flywheel side had been leaking, sawdust between the dirt lip and the sealing lip, sawdust inside the seal and on the face of the b/e bearing. Clutch side seal in contrast was nice and clean. I'm happy to have got away with that (air leak)... not so happy about stripping the key out of the flywheel though. 100% sure flywheel was seated and torqued up properly. My mistake - I think - was not degreasing the crankshaft taper...
Ran pretty strong with standard ignition timing but started to behave weirdly after a good long run (its a milling saw) with the idle speed unstable. Airleak. Replaced the crank seals. Inspecting the old ones - the flywheel side had been leaking, sawdust between the dirt lip and the sealing lip, sawdust inside the seal and on the face of the b/e bearing. Clutch side sealin contrast was nice and clean. I'm happy to have got away with that (airleak)... not so happy about stripping the key out of the flywheel though. 100% sure flywheel was seated and torqued up properly. My mistake - I think - was not degreasing the crankshaft taper...
Has anyone on any model year that has or comes with an ignition curve switch noticed that fuel consumption is higher with the "rain" curve? Or does the engine produce more spooge when ridden with the soft/rain curve?
Thank you. Yesterday I played a lot with the power valve and I found a good setting. I was riding really well yesterday and I was a happy man, then found that I rode the whole day with second ignition curve, what GasGas calls "rain" or "soft" mode. I did not miss anything, could lift the front. All it needed was a little more throttle but I thought that is due to my new PV setting until I realized that I was in "rain mode".
Seems the retarded ignition curve lets the engine run less effective resulting in a higher consumption. I prefer the soft or "rain" curve as the engine reacts smoother. With my Kato it was about one litre more per 100km.
The IC ignition unit is an E12-80 on both my original and newer distributors. I will swap the old one back in to see if that works. The fixing plates do have a bottom screw that will provide more adjustment, but I've tried that with no help. I'm reluctant to attempt swapping magnets for fear of breaking another 40 plus year brittle old part, while removing the stator on top. I'm certain that's how the original one was broken. The stator screws were frozen in place and I had to tap on my driver to get them moving. If all the above doesn't work out, I have a 78 280 distributor and the GM HEI conversion deal that I'll install. Thank you for your help.
The triggering mechanisms are the same on the ZX distributors. The different distributors have different timing curves but work the same at idle speed. When a spike passes a spike a voltage pulse is generated. By "compare" I meant to set them side by side and see if the breaker plates and other moving parts are in the same orientation. Sit and stare at them for a while. Set them up so that they should be in exactly the same position and see if the spikes are oriented the same way. You can use your engine for that also, install them both, one at a time and take a picture of the reluctor spikes and trigger ring spikes. They'll probably be different. Then find a way to make the new one look like the old one.
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