Krack Hog Splitter

[Malka Sedano]

Ive heard the word "splitter" used to mean either:

1. a straight-in crack (as opposed to a corner)

2. really clean rock, such as you might find where a piece of rock has recently split

3. really good climbing

What's the word at the crag?

Technically it should refer to a straight in crack. However these days it has made the jump (at least in some circles) to being any exceptionally uniform crack even if it's in a dihedral. This bothers me, because a "splitter" is just what it sounds like. It splits the rock...

splitter seems to be getting used for anything "kick ass" around here....kinda stoopid to me.

"brah, the weather is just SOOOO splitter today!"

WTF? gottta laugh...to each their own.

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Bohusln is in South West Sweden, close to the border of Norway and about an hour and half drive North from Gothenburg. The name of the area is the name of the region, much like we might use Peak District, Lake District or Snowdonia in the UK.

Until 2010, I'd say that this area was a totally unknown destination to anyone but Scandinavians and locals. Then the DVD Crackoholic was released. Remember Richard Ekehed from Hard Grit (who climbs Master's Edge)? He's one of the locals and invited a young Neil Gresham and Leo Houlding out to the area back in 1999, and I'd say they were probably some first visitors to the area from another country (other than Norway). It still is a very esoteric and under the radar area.

After the film came out I think it has grown in popularity, and word has trickled out it's a world class climbing destination. It remains quieter, less busy, and without the hustle and bustle of the more well-known European granite destinations (Val de Mello for example). Everyday life, climbing and things in general feel way more relaxed, less pressured and easy going. When you visit Bohusln it's all about waking up and seeing what the day brings. It's a place to go and enjoy the climbing and have a relaxing time!

Whilst Bohusln might not have the size and scale of other destinations (it's mainly single pitch climbing), what is does have is impeccable granite. Forget the quality of granite in Yosemite, Squamish, Mello, etc, Bohusln is better. Huge statement that, I know - but I've said it. It is. The best granite and routes in Bohusln easily match up to the best pitches I've climbed anywhere in the world.

Pete Whittaker on Electric Avenue (E8 6c) at Sklefjll Petter RestorpThe easiest area to compare it to in the UK would be The Peak District. Replace the Gritstone with granite, the crowds with a few Scandinavians and scattered cattle and you've got it. A very green landscape is dotted with small crags, which are in farmers' fields and on small hillsides with easily accessible approaches. However, Bohusln certainly has a few quirkier locations, including granite crags which come straight out of sandy beaches right next to the sea. Pretty amazing!

Why would you go to Bohusln? You'd go to this area for the Trad climbing. There are a few bolted routes and crags, but you're going to be travelling here to place Wires and Friends, not to clip bolts. This is primarily a single pitch location, although there are some 2 pitch routes, don't expect adventurous climbing. A 20-minute walk to a crag would be a long walk and 5 to 15 minutes of walking is standard for the popular areas.

If you watched the DVD Crackoholic, it might give you the same impression that foreigners have about our Gritstone: death! However, those that climb in The Peak District will know that there are many safe and easy routes for all abilities to enjoy. Bohusln is exactly the same. It has a slight aura of being hard, scary and dangerous, but this is only applicable to the top end routes. There are many easier and safer routes to get on. Even though there are very low-end routes in this area, I'd say a climber operating around HVS or above would have the most rewarding time here.

There are loads of great crags to visit in Bohusln, so many good ones it would be impossible to cover them all in this short article. However, below I've picked five of the top crags of the area and given you a little run down of each. If you go to Bohusln, these places aren't to be missed. Remember though, this is not everything that Bohusln has to offer at all. Make sure you seek out the more obscure crags, as some places may only have 1 or 2 routes, but those routes are absolute gems and can make the trip!

Probably the proudest and most famous crag in Bohusln. As you drive towards the main climbing sectors this is the area you'll see on your right-hand side. It looks imposing and impressive and you'll be able to see straight away that this is an area with world class lines. Big leaning aretes and huge corner systems correlate their way across the entire buttress. On first appearance, the crag looks pretty steep and can feel intimidating when you first get there. But as you hunt around you'll find that not every line takes a big exposed hanging arete and there are some lower angled climbs.

The venue is actually on private land in the back of a farmer's field. The farmer, Bengt, has become a legend among the Bohuslan climbers for his generosity to let climbers come and park at his farm and use the crag for climbing as and when they like (make sure to leave some change in the money pot, as it helps keep a good relationship between climbers and Bengt). He doesn't speak a word of English (or at least he didn't when I last went), so communication is best done through friendly waving.

The two easier angled must do routes here are Mallrol and Chapman, both long and wandering routes up edgy granite slabs. The next classics do start to get a bit steeper, burlier and pumpy, such as Dr Feg, Tor Line and Trampoline. The hardest routes quite often take the striking aretes, so take your pick!

Petter Restorp on 'Beauty School Dropout' - 8a+ Trad Stefan WulfA crag of two halves; longer easier multi-pitches out of the forest (Stora Vaggen); or shorter harder single pitches in the forest (Branta Vaggen). This is one of the larger crags of the area with around 100 routes.

Again, this crag is split into two halves. An easier half (Stora Galgeberget) and a more difficult half (Lilla Galgeberget). I think this is the crag which has my favourite walk in. There's nothing really that special about it, you just walk through a flat meadow for about 5 minutes, then the rocks are there - but on a nice sunny day it just feels very 'Bohusln'

This is a brilliant location for easier climbing. The area is split into around 6 different small sectors and it's all belay to your bumper type climbing. Very convenient for a quick hit if you're short on time, but you could also spend numerous days there, as there are so many routes to go at. Villskudd is the classic of the area, but on the same buttress there are several routes that are similarly superb.

One of the harder crags of Bohuslan. There are some routes at lower grades, but you'd want to be climbing in the E numbers to make the most of going here. The crag stays very shaded, so in early spring or late autumn it can stay wetter for much longer and feel dank and cold. This is more of a summer venue. Again, this is an area with striking lines; splitters up blank faces, sharp cut aretes and smooth bridging corners. I'm going to recommend 3 routes here:

I have only ever been in Spring, but both Spring and Autumn are good. If you are looking for cooler conditions, then April would be a good shout. Late May should be perfect. June will be hot and relaxing. Any earlier than April, and the days will be short and cold, and it won't feel much like a holiday. Even though June and July can be hot, these months are great because the length of daylight is so long (you are the same latitude as the most northern tip of Scotland), so you can have long morning lie ins, but climb late into the night. Or if you're psyched, get up at first light and have a 20-hour climbing day!

August, September, October will be the Autumn equivalent of the Spring months. I've spent just over two months in total in Bohusln and I've known the weather to be wall to wall sunshine for 2/3 weeks solid, but then I've also experienced a week solid of rain and no chance of climbing. Weather is not guaranteed, but as Brits I'd say we're pretty good at snatching at dry rock between rain showers, so you should have no problem.

When I've stayed for an extended trip in Bohusln, I have driven from the UK with my van. However, I believe all public ferries to Scandinavia have stopped, and now the ferry to Esbjerg (in Denmark) has also stopped. So, unless you are really keen to take your van or you're on an extended road trip, driving is not really an option anymore.

There is now a campsite at Bengt's farm below Haller. This wasn't there when I last visited (only being built), but has opened in the last couple of years. I've heard from friends who have been more recently than me that the camping is good. It is obviously very convenient because you are right below one of the best crags in Bohusln (Haller), and very close to a lot of the other great locations mentioned above. There are toilets and showers at the campsite and a barn to cook in if the weather is bad. It is around 10 per night.

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