Quick Flash Boot

[Malka Sedano]

Alwaysreference the product catalog and/or electrical cross-reference for the correct size Quickflash panel to install. View or download this Quickflash Plumbing Flashing Panel Spec Sheet for dimensions and cut sheets / CAD drawings for more details.

Quickflash Plumbing Flashing Panels provide the natural building industry with the ultimate solution to weatherproofing plumbing vertical wall penetrations and protrusions. Quickflash Flashing Panels reduce maintenance, improve energy efficiency, and save time and labor.

Quickflash is quick and easy to install. The patented, made-in-the USA flashing panels replace the old, unreliable caulking, tape flashing, and sheet metal flashing methods all together. This saves the builder thousands of dollars a year from potential moisture related problems such as toxic mold and possible litigation.

We are in the process of upgrading one of our MCUs from the STM32F072RBT6 to the STM32F303RBT6 and we are experiencing problems with the F303. I am testing out all the firmware using a NUCLEO-F303RE (the 512kB version of the MCU). To further test this issue, I have also made a very simple application that simply blinks the NUCLEO LED once per second. If I pull the BOOT0 pin low, I can communicate with the bootloader over USART1. So I am able to flash the MCU binary with the bootloader and then pull BOOT0 high, reset the MCU, and then the LED blink program runs without any issue. What I am not able to do is issue the Go command to the bootloader and start the user application from the bootloader. With this, I see the LED flash very quickly once (not the duration it should) and then the MCU is back in the bootloader. I can then endlessly issue the Go command, without physically resetting the MCU (NRST), and see this very short single flash. If I change the firmware to not blink the LED, I see no quick flash. This indicates that the user application is actually starting, but it then just returns to the bootloader.

I've included the stm_bootloader.h header that I've written for bootloader USART communication. We've been using this for quite a while with the F072 and never had an issue. The commands I call from there in order are:

The FlashBinary funciton primarily just performs a global erase, writes the firmware binary, and then calls the Go command. The NUCLEO boards also allow flashing a HEX file from the onboard STLINK via mass storage. If I flash the MCU in this way, it still has the same issue with starting the user application from bootloader Go command. (Enabling/disabling RDP did not have an effect).

Failing this add simple code in startup.s at the ResetHandler to output state via a UART or GPIO. Start simple, and build out code to report conditions on the ground, and check-point arrival at code deeper into the application.

@MikeGuertin: Yes they are hard to find. When I worked in the Pacific NorthWest they were stocked at my local lumberyard. Now that I'm in Austin, TX I order mine online. My usual source is efi.org. Call them for "builder" pricing rather than ordering online. Great company with lots of hard to find products for high performance building. Appreciate the comments. Matt Risinger

But I'm left with a question about detailing these outlets. I understand the detailing at the WRB but not on the outside. When building walls out 2 3/4" thick from the outside of the stud to the outside of the siding (1/2" plywood, Tyvek, 1"XPS, 3/4" Rainscreen, 1/2" Siding) you're left with a gap.

For example the depth on the E-SGB-C is 1 3/8". The quickflashing goes at the WRB layer, that still leaves 2 1/4" (2 3/4 - 1/2 plywood) to the outside of the siding. That means i'm left with a 1 1/8" gap. how do you deal with that?

When I flip the power on I either get the first LED blinking a green/yellow color, or the entire string blinking full white. Seems random on which one happens. I have nothing happening at boot, meaning no save states being called, no macros, setting to turn LEDs on at boot is not enabled. However changing any of these does not change the behavior.

Does this sound like a hardware issue, something about how I have it wired? Or is this a WLED issue? I have noticed this on other projects, however only with the first LED blinking, not the whole string.

Edit, Figured out the randomly changing what blinks thing. It depends what what set when everything gets turned off. When the whole string was lit, the string then blinks quickly to that same state when power comes on and then WLED seems to catch up and turn them off. When the string was off before power is removed it is simply the first LED that blinks that yellow/green quickly.

If WLED is left on all the time, a double pole relay controlled by that switch would be perfect. One set of relay contacts interrupts the LED strip power, and the other set controls 3.3V input to WLED for BTN PIN configured as a simple switch to control LED On/Off.

So, summary of what I found to be the issue and solution:

The LED chips I picked will revert to their last state if power is supplied before the controller fully initializes and gets the data line running. This creates a flash or blink right when power is supplied to the LEDs. By using a relay to control power to the LEDs you can delay the LED on time until the data line is up and running. A D1 mini (or my particular D1 mini) may not be able to supply enough power to the relay at boot, use a Fet or a different ESP board.

When I press the power button, the CPU fan seems like it's starting to turn, and then immediately stops. The chasis fans don't move at all. The MOBO light also turns on for a second and then off, but the on/off light near the power button turns on and stays on, as if the PC is working, but it's not (all other lights are off and fans don't turn).

You can also open the case and check for dust. Dust is notorious for causing issues. Use an aircan (or shopvac in blow mode, just don't put it too close to the fans or risk burning out the fan!) to remove any dust from the fans, chips, etc.

The old tried and true method is: disconnect everything non-essential from the system and test it (that means removing all but video card, if it doesn't have a built-in, all hard drives, peripherals, etc).

This method also helps fix if something got loose when you reconnect things. In some situations, I've found re-seating RAM to resolve similar issues as well, but it's most likely not the problem as it's getting power but not booting. With bad RAM or unseated RAM, it will boot then BSOD when Windows starts up.

Lastly, if your board has a design defect that can be a contributing factor (aka the M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 CPU seating defect which I naturally can't find the link on anymore). This also applies to bad caps. If after removing everything but PSU and videocard, the thing still doesn't boot, get a flashlight out and look at the motherboard caps to ensure none of them have blown.

In my case it took a few hours before I could turn it on again, and I saw that the CPU was running a bit hot even when idle. I reapplied new thermal paste and numbers were back to normal, haven't had another shutdown since.

I am having the SAME issue. July 18, 2018. The iPad Pro 10.5 was hot upon opening the protective case, would not take a charge, and now will not reset: The Apple logo comes on for a couple of seconds then a red flash then blank screen for a few seconds then it repeats . It is WiFi only . HELP!

Learell Faulk I would force it into DFU mode and restore. If it still fails, or fails again soon after, I would move to board level diagnosis. Probably test NAND supplies and off all ok, replace Tristar.

This had happened with my iPad pro 10.5 after having it for 1.5 years . The sound had been cutting out intermittently when using the wired jack for about 2 weeks prior ,I initially thought it was due to the headphones themselves but after aboit a week the iPad would randomly freeze and be stuck on grey Apple screen if it was allowed to time out into sleep mode , it would only turn on again up if hard reset . This happened a few times until I contacted apple support which advised me to do a factory reset.. that was what ultimately killed the machine . Everytime it tried to install the OS from iTunes from any computer using different cords it would flash red for a couple seconds then fail and error code. . Genius bar couldn't help me as it is out of warranty . I used the iFixit repair guide to open the screen and immediately saw the problem. A piece of the earphone jack.had dislodged and a tiny screw was free inside . Im not sure how that happened in the first place but as soon as I put the screw back into place and closed everything back up the iPad booted as factory reset and I was able to restore data from last backup. the iPad works perfectly now . No sound issues ..not a software problem .it was a hardware problem at least for my case.

Hey guys, i know its a bit late but i figure i might as well leave as much feedback as i can. I had a similar issue with my iPad but in a different way. First there was a shorted cap around the PMIC, so i removed that, the device worked fine. Then i assembled the device and it would go directly into recovery mode. After that i tried testing everything i could even reflashing to no avail. Long story short, i unplugged all the peripherals from the iPad and only left the screen and battery plugged in, i plugged it into a windows machine, and instantly booted into the main menu of the device.

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