This may not be a shocker for some of you, but I was definitely surprised. All common smartphones out there can drive most low impedance headphones, so I expected the Switch to be able to do it as well. Nope.
The Switch could not drive any of these low impedance headphones even the 20Ω LCD-X. I would be very surprised if it can even drive 16Ω headphones. I had to run the Switch through an amp to be able to get decent volume.
#DRIVE is a simulation game where you do what the title says: drive. The premise of the game is to hop in a car and keep driving to see how far you can go. Oh, and try not to hit anything along the way.
We have 2 joy con controllers and split them to play Mario kart 8 deluxe with four people. We've noticed that some of us don't need to hold down any buttons in order to drive, while some of us do. For example, my kart moves on its own as soon as the race starts, meanwhile my husband doesn't move unless he holds down the bottom round button.
@nattyville There are two features that help players drive in this game. These are smart steering and auto-accelerating. The first feature makes it so players can't drive off the track and the second feature means you don't have to hold down the button to accelerate. To turn these features off, while on the kart select screen (after the character select) , press the - or + button to bring up statistics for the karts, this is where you can turn them off/on. You can also turn these features off/on when racing by simply pausing the game and pressing the trigger buttons to turn them on/off. Hope that helps!
@F1R3F1Y The game defaults to have these driver aids on unfortunately - but you can turn them on or off easily enough by pushing + or - on the kart selection screen (as below) and pressing the corresponding buttons to toggle them on/off...
@F1R3F1Y Yeah, I'd have definitely preferred an options menu or something instead (like you get in 99% of other games!) ..the game will keep each persons 'driver aid' preferences for the duration of the session - or if you suspend the software - but, if you close the software completely, I think it resets players 2, 3 & 4 to the default control scheme (..which kinda sucks!)
I'm looking to add a Nintendo Switch to my current setup. I have it connected directly to my TV which is part of the room in my Control4 build. Without a driver, I'm not sure how to add it. I'd like to select it in Control4 and have the TV change to the correct input. I'd love for it to turn on the Switch too, but I don't know if that's possible.
I currently have a Wii and Switch mounted to the back of the same TV since I haven't played with centrally locating them...yet. The rack is probably less than 50 feet from the TV where the kids play both consoles, so I might have to toy with that idea. I know there is a way to play Wii games from a network drive, but is there anything like that for the Switch?
Also, on the same TV, I have an IR flasher installed for a Samsung TV - you know...because Samsung doesn't have an IP driver for a 2017 TV that I'm aware of. Anyway, the flasher is literally sitting right next to the Wii IR sensor bar, but the Wii doesn't turn on when I select it as the source. Yes, I do have the IR Out on the HC800 binded to the TV and the Wii. The TV works fine, but I can't get the Wii to work. Any ideas without having to install a different flasher?
Has anyone been able to use Power Sensing coupled with the Nintendo Switch? I have one hooked up to a TP-Link HS110 and Alan's driver. The switch seems to be a little bit of a different animal than the other consoles, because it has a battery and a 5V / 3A charger.
If I look at the power draw on a Nintendo switch, I've seen it as low as 10w while powered on (coasting using some battery power, or maybe just under extremely low load), and as high as 13w while off and charging (trying to fast charge?). Right now, it's docked, off, and charging and consistently consuming 12w.
This gives the desired result, but if someone grabs the switch playing it handheld, and then puts it back into the dock to charge, the TV will turn on until it finishes charging...not sure that there's a good way around this...
Need for Spirit Drink & Drive Simulator was released for the Switch on 15th October, and contains gameplay of a "hapless professional driver tasked with delivering alcoholic beverages to various celebrations, all while battling the perils of abysmal roads and your very own addiction to the booze you're transporting".
Yes, same here. I completed the Fortuna quest line today and added the K-Drive Launcher to my gear wheel. When i go to Orb Vallis, I go to activate the K-drive but nothing happens. I went to Ventkids and I can see that there is a Daily Deal of the Roki(?) board to purchase for 54 platinum, but (from research) I was under the impression that the Bondi board was free and automatically deployed if no board was purchased? Please can you confirm this last point and acknowledge if this bug is known? btw. Thank you for a great game DE ? I've already brought the Frost, Esteem and Nintendo Switch Starter packs to support you.
Yep you need to wait for everything to load once you're outside. You'll notice that the symbol for the k-drive race next to fortuna is always there, regardless of if it's actually today's active race. When that disappears, it's safe to launch k-drive. I agree. This glitch is completely ABSURD. If it was effecting fashion frame items you can bet they'd have fixed it by now
LEGO 2K Drive is an open-world racing game set in the world of Bricklandia. The new LEGO title was developed by Visual Concepts, the renowned developers behind the long-running WWE 2K series. In LEGO 2K Drive, players may drive LEGO versions of licensed cars and race against zany rivals while competing for the Sky Trophy. Moreover, LEGO 2K Drive features online multiplayer with cross-play across all platforms, including PC, PlayStation 5, and Nintendo Switch.
A racing game which puts players in the shoes of a professional driver who must transport alcoholic beverages while intoxicated has been pulled from the Nintendo Switch eShop after it was released with a PEGI 3 age rating.
For most fans of racing and driving sims for current and next-generation consoles, the Logitech G923 is the best racing wheel for the money. It replaces both the G29 on Playstation and the G920 for Xbox and features the newest version of Logitech's dual-motor force feedback system which now features new Trueforce vibration motors that add a bit of virtual engine rumble to the wheel's excellent steering and road feel. New software allows drivers to program "dual-clutch" control for faster shifts and an LED shift light. Right now, however, these new features are only compatible with a few games. The G923 is offered in both Xbox and Playstation compatible versions which now have nearly identical on-wheel buttons and thumb controls.
Racing wheel and flight yoke veteran Thrustmaster offers a selection of wheels for Xbox consoles with the TMX being a sweet spot for entry level racing. Thrustmaster's belt-driven force feedback has a smoother feel than the Logitech wheels, but I prefer Logitech's overall build quality. The Thrustmaster TMX is also a good budget alternative, starting around $50 cheaper than comparable Logitech setups of the same generation.
The T150 RS is essentially the mechanically identical, Playstation-compatible version of the TMX recommended above with the same belt-driven force feedback and build quality. Like its twin, this wheel feels smoother than the Logitech competitor, but I prefer the grip of the Logi wheel in hand.
Using a driving wheel adds more natural control for racing and driving games, taking advantage of your real world muscle memory to help you be more competitive virtually. Experience in-game with a wheel also helps reinforce that muscle memory, making you a better driver on the road. It's a positive feedback loop.
A good wheel should boast strong and natural feeling force feedback, which adds to immersion. Logitech's dual-motor system in the G920 and G29 offer a good, torquey feel, but aren't quite as smooth as the best belt-driven motors Thrustmaster uses on its mid-tier wheels or the brushless direct-driven servos you'll find in more expensive enthusiast sim wheels. Budget wheels often lack force feedback or make do with simple rumble functionality. Personally, I'd avoid them, but they can be good for children or players with limited mobility.
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